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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 12:00 PM
  #21  
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Just a tip...when I replaced my chain with a Cloyes, if you are using 6 & 12 the rotor should be firing at #6. 12 & 12 fires at #1...
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 01:17 AM
  #22  
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If you're pushing 200#'s of compression..I doubt timing is off on cam. When you jump a tooth or two and cam retards, the intake valve closes so late (if nothing is bent) that compression drops.

You've still got something out of whack.

We've got compression...we've got fuel....we've got spark ..right?

Does it ever sound like it's trying to crank? Does it kick back or anything? Pop out exhasut/carb? Sure it's definitely in time on distributor?

There's something real simple here that's not adding up right and we're all gonna smack ourselves on the forehead!

JIM
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 02:16 AM
  #23  
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Can't remember if anyone mentioned if the timing has been retarded or advanced too much...I assume you've moved the distributor a little at a time
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 09:24 AM
  #24  
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you know make sure the gear on the crankshaft didn't break that key thats holding it on.....that would account for a noise and would account for the timing shifting .....

Last edited by bobs77vet; Oct 23, 2005 at 09:15 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 09:56 AM
  #25  
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,,, nothing to add because everything I've thought of so far has already been talked about,,,Maybe it's time to just forget everything that you know (mechanically) and start from scratch. Go at it step by step and stop second guessing about this that and the other,,,,,kinda walk away from it for a day or two if you can and dont even think about it. We have some VERY knowledgeable people on this forum and sooner or later it'll be solved, but I bet yer anxious to hear it run again Peace,,,Moosie
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 09:16 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mvftw
Just a tip...when I replaced my chain with a Cloyes, if you are using 6 & 12 the rotor should be firing at #6. 12 & 12 fires at #1...
I finally got that part. I install at 6 and 12, zero the balancer, then rotate to 12 and 12 so it'll be at TDC compression stroke, balancer still at TDC.
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 09:24 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
If you're pushing 200#'s of compression..I doubt timing is off on cam. When you jump a tooth or two and cam retards, the intake valve closes so late (if nothing is bent) that compression drops.

You've still got something out of whack.

We've got compression...we've got fuel....we've got spark ..right?

Does it ever sound like it's trying to crank? Does it kick back or anything? Pop out exhasut/carb? Sure it's definitely in time on distributor?

There's something real simple here that's not adding up right and we're all gonna smack ourselves on the forehead!

JIM
I put the motor back together today and hooked up all the wiring. I didn't put the radiator support, radiator/fan back in so I didn't attempt to start it. I take longer and more frequent breaks than I used to when I was building my Vette! So it'll probably be next weekend before I get the rest done and attempt to start it.

Before I removed the cam/valvetrain/timing set it would only turn over. Didn't even grunt like it wanted to start. Like I said before, it'll probably be something so simple I'll be embarrassed to admit it...but I will!
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by GDaina
Can't remember if anyone mentioned if the timing has been retarded or advanced too much...I assume you've moved the distributor a little at a time
Did that. When it was running it responded to changes in distributor position. It didn't respond to distributor position, as in hard to crank with too much advance, after the "no start" problem happened.
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 09:30 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
you know make sure the gear on the crankshaft didn't break that key thats holding it on.....that would account for a noise and would account for the timing shifting .....
Crankshaft gear was fine. In fact, I pulled it, inspected it, reinstalled it in the "straight up" position. It was 4 degrees advanced.
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 09:35 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by moosie982
,,, nothing to add because everything I've thought of so far has already been talked about,,,Maybe it's time to just forget everything that you know (mechanically) and start from scratch. Go at it step by step and stop second guessing about this that and the other,,,,,kinda walk away from it for a day or two if you can and dont even think about it. We have some VERY knowledgeable people on this forum and sooner or later it'll be solved, but I bet yer anxious to hear it run again Peace,,,Moosie
Done that too. Left it alone for several days while I read up on ignitions, valve timing, etc. In addition to picking ya'lls brains, I have also had a couple of guys come over and look, listen and offer their opinions. I'll get it eventually, tune it and take to the local eighth mile track to terrorize a few unsuspecting opponents. I have to feel that way or I'd just give up.
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 10:26 PM
  #31  
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I wouldn't worry about putting all that stuff on. No reason you can't crank it and let it run a few seconds with no water. Won't hurt a thing.

Just leave bare minimum stuff there to crank it. It doesn't need all that stuff so you don't have to mess with it later if you have to go back into it.


JIM
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 12:58 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
I wouldn't worry about putting all that stuff on. No reason you can't crank it and let it run a few seconds with no water. Won't hurt a thing.

Just leave bare minimum stuff there to crank it. It doesn't need all that stuff so you don't have to mess with it later if you have to go back into it.


JIM
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 11:34 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Just leave bare minimum stuff there to crank it. It doesn't need all that stuff so you don't have to mess with it later if you have to go back into it.JIM

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