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I'm sure this has been asked before, but I can't seem to find it.
What is the trick to installing the park brake shoes? There's not a lot of room in there. Any tips?
Get 2-4 six packs of your favorite beer, tool box, and shoes. Jack up the car, lay down with your head on the tool box and drink until out cold. When you're awake , out the car on the ground and drive it.
Or you could jack up the car,pull the tire,caliper,rotor. Drill out the rivets if still there,mark the rotor to stud so you get it back to the right location, use needle nose on the hold down springs, remove the old shoes and rusted springs. Don't use SS shoes only the SS hrdw kit.
I use dental floss to hold the hold down springs and RTV to hold the pin in place. This job just plain sucks and adjusting them I find to be the biggest PITA by hey what's a vette for?
Get 2-4 six packs of your favorite beer, tool box, and shoes. Jack up the car, lay down with your head on the tool box and drink until out cold. When you're awake , out the car on the ground and drive it.
Don't use SS shoes only the SS hrdw kit.
Gary
What's wrong with SS shoes if you use riveted facings?
The SS shoes I used were not made correct and I had to machine them to finally get them to fit. The steel replacements fit without any problem. It's the hardware that causes the problem and the SS kits are fine.
Gary
The SS shoes I used were not made correct and I had to machine them to finally get them to fit. The steel replacements fit without any problem. It's the hardware that causes the problem and the SS kits are fine.
Gary
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by StickShiftCorvette
What's wrong with SS shoes if you use riveted facings?
I've heard that the SS flexes when you apply the brake, and keeps you from getting full pressure where it's needed. If that is true it explains why I was never EVER able to get a 'good' parking brake feel from mine after installing them. That was three years ago and even then the brake barely held at all.
Last I had the rotors off was this past summer, and when I inspected them, I saw the lining on the parking brake shoes crumbling and looking like that job will be coming up again soon.
This time though I'll use regular steel shoes...NOT SS ones.
Considering everything on a C3 is a pita, this is a pretty stern warning!
This is one of the most difficult repairs we have done on Corvettes. One should allot two days for its undertaking. It requires a degree of patience and dexterity above that of most repairs.
I think I'll just save up and buy new trailing arm assemblies when mine fail.
The SS shoes I used were not made correct and I had to machine them to finally get them to fit. The steel replacements fit without any problem. It's the hardware that causes the problem and the SS kits are fine.
Gary
The brand and temperature of beer matters as well. Cheap beer has to be very cold or you get mad while doing the brakes. When you get mad you break things and then have to spend more money. First on parts then better beer.
Go slow and be patient because it will not work the first few times. It's not hard just very frustrating. Put the back end of the car up on jackstands and not the jack. Before you do it call you local corvette shop and ask what it would cost for them to do it. That way, when you do it yourself, you can spend the extra money you saved on other projects.
I've had issues with the SS shoes as well.... I don't use them anymore.
The shoe material is typically less "sticky" or "harder" than OEM material. The rivets have come loose chewing up the rotor, the arching has been off, the material has disintegrated etc etc.
On the install... get a cheap screwdriver and cut a V in the end- it helps to hold, locate & install the non-pinned springs. A small pair of needle nose pliers helps with the pinned (hold down) springs. I use 2.... one to push the spring/retainer down, the other to pull the pin up & twist it. The dental floss trick is easier.
Making the adjustment-
Cable loose
With the pads removed (unwanted drag),
Funky pad insertion tool to hold the pistons (two of them).
Two lug nuts reversed to hold the rotor tight against the spindle.
Disconnect the half shafts to make the adjustment. Too much drag to get it right with the shafts attached.
Tighten adjuster until the rotor cannot be moved with a screwdriver in the rotor web (leverage). Then back off the adjustment per spec.
Adjust cable
Repeat until it actually works. ha ha