Nothing wrong with my windshield but need to take it off to get to to the cancer on the pillars. Can anyone recommend the best way to do this without bustin up the glass?

 

Just had mine removed for the same reason, but mine needed replaced anyway. The windshield guy broke it as it was coming out, but like I said, I didn't care. I'm sure it could be done, but it's not as easy as taking one out of a Chevy sedan. Since these windshields don't have a radio antenna in them they aren't that expensive. You might just have to take your chances and risk having to buy a new one.

BTW - Used to live in Rowlett, over by the Lake. If you see my ex, please run her down.

 

You have to cut the butyl compound with a wire....automotive stores sell this tool. You will also need suction cups to lift the windshield.

Be careful with the wire, easy to damage the dash pad

 

IMO if you don't want it to crack have a pro take it out.

 

I'd recommend you look for a copy of
The focus is on the C3 (but the many techniques are widely
applicable). Very highly detailed diagnostic and repair information.
Extensive coverage of tools and materials.

Specific info about tools and techniques for W/S removal,
repair of the frame and solutions to prevent recurrance.

I think that even if you have someone else do the work,
you should get this book beforehand and use the education
you get from reading it to supervise the job.

.

 

I got mine out with patients and a putty knife without breaking.

 

When you have completed your post repairs, go back to the pros and let them install it. If they know their stuff (as they should) they will guarantee no leaks.

 

If you are inclined to give this a whirl yourself, consider going to
a 'Pick-a-part' recycling site to practice on wrecks before starting in
on your own ride.

If you start the project and decide to bail for some reason, consider
having the pro come to your location instead of trying to get the car
to him once the glass is out. C3s have a frame but I believe it is
generally considered to be poor practice to move any vehicle much
unless the glass is in place (esp non-Vette unibody cars where the
windshield is a structural component.)


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Thanks everybody - I'll get the book and take pics as I go!

 

You might want to hook up with 'Z51Jeff' from over in the
C4 Forum. He is/was in the middle of a similar project on
his car.

.

 

With the top dash pad off I used wire welder wire all the way around and it came out easy. Pushed the top out and with a helper lifted it out.

 

I installed autoglass professionally for 12 years back in the 70's. I just took out my 68 vert windshield to check the pinchweld and frame. The winshield is installed with urethane. It is fairly easy to cut with a very thin wire. Use a piano wire or a guitar string (the thinest you can buy) Work the wire in very carefully in the corner top to start. Keep the wire at a very sharp angle as close to the glass surface as your hands can get. Work the wire in a sawing motion as you move forward. You may have to go around a couple of times to be sure the urethane and butyl are cut all the way through. Push out on the top of the glass gingerly making sure not to get any portion of it in a bind. Have someone help you lift it out as it is very tight in the lower corners by the fender. 2 things to look out for.
1. As you come around to the lower corners and the setting blocks it gets tight. Don't force the wire. Pull gently through. That is why I use the thinest wire I can buy. Don't worry if the wire brakes once or twice. It is very easy to start back through in the top corners.
2. The bottom of most C3's have double setting tape. As you come across the bottom you will notice a little more resistance.You are cutting through 2 layers fo setting tape. Usually one is urethane and 1 is butyl. The butyl tape will want to rebound as soon as you cut through it. It is sometimes easier to push out on the top (very gingerly) as you cut out the bottom. Don't push it out more than you have clearance at the bottom. It will put the glass in a bind and crack it.
Have someone help you as it takes 2 hands for the wire and one to push out thhe top.

In closing........ having done this professionally it is easy for me to do.
Glass is not very forgiving even the professionals will not gaurantee the the glass will not break when thay pull it. Most glass shops will give you a deal on reinstallation if they pull the glass. The installation due to the new urethanes and primers being used should be done by the professionals. Find a shop with an oldtimer like me (never thought I'd say oldtimer, I'm only 48) that has done a few in days past. I used to be able to remove these like the were set in butter. If the glass is not shaded at the top definitely have a professional pull it. If it is original LOF glass have a professional pull it. I priced a clear glass when I pulled mine (just in case I cracked it) and it was almost $1800 for just the glass. They have to special order that windshield beacuse it is not being manufactered any more . A shaded one was about $400.00 installed.
Good luck.

 

First, thank you very much for the info - I think I will attempt to do it myself. I have a few questions though..

How do you get the wire through to the other side? Doesn't seem like you could actually push it...

What is LOF glass? I thought mine was the original glass but it does have a slight tan tint to it. It matches the saddle interior. It's not like the top blue style tint found on modern cars.

Thanks!

 

Yeah and all of a sudden the price gets doubled,,, Peace,,,Moosie

 

Libbey-Owens-Ford Company. Now part of Pilkington.

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Pulled and broke mine this summer. DO NOT USE A KNIFE. Use a wire ONLY!! Easy with wire. I bought a new dated one from Pilkington and put it in myself no problem (never done it before).

Good luck

Neil

 

Don't do what I did. Start with the wire, get mad, cut yourself, then take a 5lb hammer and get the rest of the way out . Clean up took forever, but that windshield figured out who the boss was!!
SGT Kirk

 

I replaced mine a while back using the wire method described above. after 2 hours I realized it was not coming out without breaking it. I replaced with a shaded pilkington that cost about 175 and cracked that one with the last screw of the trim! Pulled it again and I just dont think it is worth the time to try to save the window. And the new glass is SO much nicer to look through. It's worth it just to replace the glass.

Good luck either way.

Chris

 

Lotsa good tips ... I'll add this:
As an aide in preventing breakage ... have the car in a HOT garage ... have it in there at least 6 hours before you start the job ... this lets everything's temps equalize ... cold=brittle .... warm=not-as-brittle. Also, the warmer the butyl is ... the easier it is to cut.