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Just bought a 1980 with Q-jet with electric choke. Couple of questions
1. should I be able to move the choke valve closed by hand with engine off? - It will not now
2. When I push the throttle all the way to end the choke will not snap closed- what will cause this.
3. Bubba put on an electric choke but never wired up a connection- looked at threads and most say to hook to a 12V source at fuse with ignition on. Could the problems with the choke be because the power is not connected yet?
4. There is no "Rear Vacuum Break " on the carb. Is this not necessary with electric choke?
Just bought a 1980 with Q-jet with electric choke. Couple of questions
1. should I be able to move the choke valve closed by hand with engine off? - It will not now
2. When I push the throttle all the way to end the choke will not snap closed- what will cause this.
3. Bubba put on an electric choke but never wired up a connection- looked at threads and most say to hook to a 12V source at fuse with ignition on. Could the problems with the choke be because the power is not connected yet?
4. There is no "Rear Vacuum Break " on the carb. Is this not necessary with electric choke?
Bubba been there. All bets are off.
Yes it needs 12V but it should snap shut when you push down on the gas when cold. Look for the wire near where they come out of the harness close to the alternator. I forget the color.
OK...since we're talking about electric chokes...I have electric chokes on both my carbs...no wires connected at all...what exactly is supposed to happen when engine is cold and you turn on the key, assuming you have this choke assembly connected to ignition power of some sort...and how and at what point does this electric device know when to open the choke for normal running...
I took off the black part and there is a coil such as a standard manual choke, and putting 12 volts to it, the coil and enclosure heat up...don't know if this is right of wrong, good or bad..
Oh, Edelbrock/1405
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Darrel -
With the engine cold, you should be able to crack the throttle open and the choke plate should snap fully closed - completely closed. All by itself. If it does not, the choke is either not adjusted right, or the choke linkage has been locked or incorrectly assembled. For a "How-To" article on choke setup and adjustment, drop me an e-mail request to: V8FastCars@msn.com
No - the problem is not because the choke has not been connected - the choke should snap closed even with no power. However, since power has not been hooked up, this may explain why the choke has been locked in the full open position and made inoperable.
Most Q-Jets do not use a rear vacum break. As long as the front vacuum break is installed and operational, that's the normal and correct configuration for the carb.
kb2 -
The electric choke simply starts to heat up as soon as you turn the ignition key to the "on" position. Once heating starts, the choke begins to open.
Thanks for the help. I think I will have the carb rebuilt and adjusted correctly. The car is in good condition- body only has 48K on it, but engines VINs do not match. I knew it going in- all I want is a good running Vette that the wife and I can cruise around in. I am new to working on vehicles, but have had a love for Vettes since I was little. Owned a 1993 for a few years and was missing it.
1980 L48- Elec Choke
I am going to work on the carb over the holidays and I have a couple of additional questions
1. Lars- Can I perform your Q-Jet Choke set-up procedure with the carb off of vehicle. I want to clean and rebuild it.
2. When I move the throttle all the way the choke does not snap shut, but I can close it by hand- when I hold the throttle open. Is the spring inside the electric choke the mechanism that snaps the choke shut? And if yes, will your set-up correct this if the spring is not broken- or is there some other part or set-up that is not working?
3. Is there any information or instructions on cleaning/rebuilding (basic- gaskets etc...) this carb- assuming all the jets etc.. are set correctly? The vehicle runs decent right now but I do not htink the carb has been touched in many years.
Just an additional, Darrel1...I have dual quads and both the chokes would not close by hand either..upon investigation, Bubba turned the choke spring backwards to keep the butterfly open all the way, all the time...reversing that action to the correct setting and supplying 12v from the hot side of the wipers power wire and grounding the neg side of the choke to a carb screw...BINGO...das chokes she works good....just thought I'd toss that in..
Thanks for the info. I am hoping it is something like that. On the wiring (Which I am very dumb). One wire from the wipers- (from fuse panel)- to the choke. Is there another wire needed or is the ground aotumatic thru the choke to carb.
And does anyone know where I can get a connector for the wire to the choke?
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by Darrel1
Is there another wire needed or is the ground aotumatic thru the choke to carb.
The choke grounds through the choke housing on the carb as long as there is no gasket beween the choke and the housing. If there is a gasket (big round gasket), there will be no ground and the choke will not function.
Yes, you can do all choke adjustments and setup with the carb on the workbench.
Thanks for the info. I am hoping it is something like that. On the wiring (Which I am very dumb). One wire from the wipers- (from fuse panel)- to the choke. Is there another wire needed or is the ground aotumatic thru the choke to carb.
And does anyone know where I can get a connector for the wire to the choke?
My carbs are Edelbrock's, (but the theory should be the same), and have a positive and negative connection on the choke coil. I don't know if Lars would agree with how I did mine, but it works and I haven't blown any fuses.I used a multi meter to find the hot wire connected to the wiper motor (hot with key on only), and just striped and spliced the choke wire into the hot wiper wire. I got the connectors for the coil at Radio Shack...here's an article for my carb, it might help you understand the electrical stuff...Good Luck
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
kb2 -
The wiper motor is a great place to pick up power to the choke - I agree completely. The only really bad place to pull power is from the "+" side of the coil on a points-type ignition system - I see this often.
kb2 -
The wiper motor is a great place to pick up power to the choke - I agree completely. The only really bad place to pull power is from the "+" side of the coil on a points-type ignition system - I see this often.
My carbs are Edelbrock's, (but the theory should be the same), and have a positive and negative connection on the choke coil. I don't know if Lars would agree with how I did mine, but it works and I haven't blown any fuses.I used a multi meter to find the hot wire connected to the wiper motor (hot with key on only), and just striped and spliced the choke wire into the hot wiper wire. I got the connectors for the coil at Radio Shack...here's an article for my carb, it might help you understand the electrical stuff...Good Luck
Thanks for the link. My electric choke has 1 wire connecter end out of it and I think it does ground thru the carb as long as there is no gasket. The info on the wiring will help alot. I will be working on it over the holidays. I live in Michigan so there is no driving here.
Anyone know where I can get a connecter. The choke has one male tab coming out of it??