Twin_Turbo

gary, any chance you have the spindle snout dimensions??? doesn't have to be really accurate, it's for a solidworks model

Burnt71

I checked out the timken at AutoZone and they are the same as the Federal Mogul. I got the NAPA angled.

bobs77vet

thanks guys, i think i got it now the dimension we are shooting for is the distance between the outer races in bearing housing.....so all setups will be unique in their exact dimensions due to manufactuing tolerances in the bearing housings .

GTR1999

Marc,

I have a couple of arms here to rebuild, I'll look over the spindles and let you know. I had some old spindles but returned them to the owners once the job was shipped.

goinbroke

Bob, yes....actually the outer races plus however much endplay you shoot for....and they will be unique. My shims (drivers side/passenger side) were about .007 different from each other in thickness. It's not really a dimension you're shooting for, but a difference in dimension/length.

It would be pretty cool if Marck could use his solidworks program to show a cutaway drawing of an assembled rear spindle.

goinbroke

Just looking at my notes....I had one side that changed plus .018" with new Timken bearings.

turtlevette

Its hard to believe that a bearing would have that much tolerance. Are you sure you got the races fully seated?


If thats the case the spindle either would be locked solid or have a bunch of slop once torqued down. Whenever i put mine back together with the existing shims you actually couldn't feel any play at all but not tight enough not to be able to turn by hand.

zwede

Now be nice Gary. I did this years ago!

Back in '97 when I bought the car it had a bent TA. Since I had it apart to replace the TA I figured I'd put new bearings in it. These were factory bearings as the rotor rivets were still there and had loosened to 0.008. I replaced them with a set of SKF bearings (Swedish quality!) and with the original shim end-play was 0.004. Not perfect but back then I didn't know of the 0.001 goal and was happy to be in spec. I drove it like that until about a year ago when I redid both trailing arms and shimed them to 0.001.

goinbroke

What I did was disassemble everything..... washed out my old bearings...mounted everything back up on the set-up tool and took a reading....just as a reference. I had .011" endplay....this is with no grease. Then with the new Timken bearings and races lightly oiled (still using the original shim) torqued up tp 100 ft/lbs and took another reading which gave me .029" endplay (the bunch of slop you speak of). This tells me my new shim will need to be about .027 thinner than the original. The stock shim was .133.....I made a new shim .106 thick and also 3 more on either side of that dimension in .001 increments.......just in case. So.....yes...new bearings can change things a lot. Probably the difference in manufacturers would be my guess.

Burnt71

Gary , Thanks for the tip on the angled NAPA seal. I just finished the install and I'm very happy with the results. Turns very easy by hand now. I checked my final endplay and had to really push to get .0017". Thanks for the phone call last Friday I was off track on where to measure. I wasn't sure about this project in the beginning but after doing it it seems simple. I hope to run into you next Carlisle so I can thank you in person. DT.

GTR1999

Zwede, I've used SKF bearings in rebuilding Bridgeport mills, they are very good quality. I would prefer Fafnir or NDH but they are gone. Used a lot of **** too,always thought the name should have been changed I should say too these are precision ball bearings with an APEC rating of 7 so they're not the same as the Timken or TRW's. BTW those TRW might have been just a bad set, I haven't used them before? I'll stay with the Timkens as long as I can still get them.

Gary

ckerch

What is this tool used for ?

GTR1999

This is nothing more then a piece of EMT(electrical conduit) that I used to press the bearings on the spindle,after I have the end-play set.
Gary

Twin_Turbo

I use the sleeve that is part of the spindle extender tool/bering setup tool..it's a tight slip fit over the spindle and works like a champ.

ckerch

This might be a stupid question but I can't help asking.
When you torque the spindle down to 100 ftlbs won’t that pull the bearing down?
When you press it on, how do you judge the bearing is fully seated without applying too much force?

GTR1999

There is no stupid question when you want to learn something.
The bearings are press fit to the spindle- unless you slip fit them. I'm not going to go there here, I press fit them.
With the setup tool the bearings will slide on without a problem. Then toruqe to 100 ft/lb to check/set the end play.
Once you get the endplay set then you grease them and install. I press the bearing on while I have a hand on the arm. I can feel when the press is stopped and the bearing is home. I rotate the arm at the same time to be sure there is no binding. When you get the brg's pressed on the nut with take up small amounts to the final set point. I don't like to load the spindle threads pressing the bearing on with the nut. When you hit 100 ft/lbs you may have to go beyond to align the cotter pin hole. I always spin the spindle after reaching the hole alignment to be sure the still is not binding. It should spin smooth,not as fast as it was before because of the new grease,brg's,and tighter end play but NO binding should be felt.
Gary

comp

i agree ,,want to learn

ckerch

I am finally getting around to putting my trailing arms back together. I ordered the bearing shim and spacer kit and decided to measure the spacers prior to using the setup tool. I found that the shims verified by up to .001 when taking multiple readings on each shim. My thought is I this varience could cause different readings between the setup tool and the final assembly when the bearings are on the spindal.

As Received***************After sanding
Min-Max=Diff ************Min-Max=Diff
0.145-0.146=0.001******0.1424 -0.1438=0.0014
0.141-0.142 =0.001*****0.1389-0.1391=0.0002
0.133-0.134=0.001******0.1312-0.1317=0.0005
0.125-0.126= 0.001*****0.1238-0.126=0.0022
0.1225-0.1233=0.0008 ***0.1208-0.122=0.0012
0.1148-0.1158=0.001*****0.1142-0.1148=0.0006
0.107-0.1078=0.0008 ****0.1061-0.1069=0.0008
0.1035-0.1045=0.001*****0.103-0.1035=0.0005
Forgot to write down*****.0948-.0952=0.0004


Since the goal is .001 bearing play I decided to see if I could pull it in a little tighter by sanding them on a flat surface using 400 wet sand paper. On two instances it made it worse.
Two questions I have:
1) Should I be doing this?
2) Do you surface grind them first ?
3) Is the procedure I am using for sanding correct?

OOPs that was three questions

Thanks
Carl

comp

Twin_Turbo

Are you saying the earlier style don't have a well and the laters do? Mine don't have them either and they are the roiginal 82 ones since the susp had never been taken apart, everything original was still there: