do you mean the blue vortec box, which is basiclly an MSD BTM (Boost Timing Master) in a blue box???

 

Yes. I run 3 different MSD timming controls and the one Vortec BTM. They are all piggy backed onto each other.
IT is the blue box in this picture

 

11.5 is what most turbo guys shoot for with computers , superchargers can get away with 12.5 max, 13 will melt a piston on a race . maybe you can get away with it at lesser power levels.Why go to all that trouble with so much timing? 32 initial keeps the idle clean and you could put a pill in it for 4-6 degrees retard and be totally safe without fibbling with *****.Dominators like mine have no power valves ,what system are you using for checking air/fuel.

 

This is a street car. Gas mileage is very important. If I take a 100 mile run to a car show I want good gas mileage. I have a Edelbrock oxygen sensor in the exhaust. I also do spot plug checks and they are white after a long run. I have never burnt a plug, a valve or holed a piston running like this.
New cars get great longjevity?? out of there motors by running them lean. I would worry about washed pistons and cylinder walls running rich. MY car can idle in the garge without burning your eyes.
Why all the timming. To make the car lug down to 1200 rpm in 5th overdrive with 308 gearing and pull away smoothly you need a good working system.
Mike I have been hot rodding for 47 years. I am tired of the high reving, wild camed, low geared hot rods. I have been there, done that and nothing to me can match my blower combination for street manners and pure brute grunt down low.
My car has to cruise nicely at very low rpm under light throttle and yet at the same time take a sudden push without surging or bucking.
We have really nothing the same on our cars. I am miles behind you on horsepower , looks, everything but when it comes to just plane cuising you can't touch me with your combination.
We are like comparing old technology with the new computer controlled cars. Mine is smooth at all power ranges but a master at none.

 

No offence to anyone but I'm hopeful Big632 is right on this one. I sort of fell backwards into this Holley 420 Megablower and will be screwing to my existing 9-1 motor and run 6-7 pounds of boost. Not being a blower specific built bottom end (hey I used cast pistons!) I don't want to beat on it too hard, just a weekend street toy. Wish me luck

 

If you can get that kind of gas mileage out of it you have mastered something.If its working leave it alone.

 

You should be fine. I am sitting here with a chart of recommendations on blower pressure and at 9-1 and 6 pounds of boost your effective compression is 12.7 About the limit of recommended street boost.
That said I run 14.5 on the top end and so far after 5 years everything is still holding together. I did lift my heads this past summer under somne hard runs.
It is always recommeneded that you run low initial compression and run more boost then higher compression and low boost.

 

Thanks Mike. Under combined city and highway mileage it usually pulls down about 14.something. That is 1/2 and 1/2 driving.
I do cruise with a guy in a hot 383 stroker and he seems to go through alot more gas then I do.
Mike I am finally changing to aluminum heads, trying to update but other then that I will leave the motor alone. I have thought about different cam changes but again I will leave that alone for now.
I do have plans for someday running a high 5 or 600 block but that is a few years down the road.
The whipple blower and fuel injection is another thing I would like to try.
Nearly all my modifications involve suspension, brakeing and handling.
When you are running into corners at 3 times the recommended speeds you better have your act together.
Thanks again Mike and I know your car far far outclasses mine.
But I do own a fast little arab.

 

Guys this is a shot of the pistons in my motor after 5 years of running in the conditions I was talking about. I did clean them with a wire wheel but the build up was very minor and no piston shows any damage from running lean. The valves were also looking good.
These are 8-1 forged pistons with the intake valve pocket openned up a little for excess clearance in case I wanted to go to a higher lift cam.

 

That use to be true, now 8.75 to 9to1 is preferred to keep the motor from not being lazy down low.The thinking behind this is you dont have to spin the blower faster to make the boost you want at a penalty of heating up the mixture,true you can have more boost with lower comp but your end result is usually less power than a better comp ratio boost mix, The downside to this is at a certain boost /comp level you will need better fuel,We have tested 7thru 10 to 1 comp and boost mixes and 9to1 was the best overall power with up to 18lbs boost with racing gas . The diff in drive ratios to compensate for lower comp ate up any power the added boost and or heat developed.On a street motor you would really benifit from more comp than boost.What do you mean by lift heads blown head gasket?

 

Thanks for the info guys,


Compression ratio and timing seem to be the biggest issue. There’s a lot of information here and I'm a little confused at what’s right for my motor.
I can either go lower compression w/ more boost or little bit higher compression with less boost.

My car is a street car, I have Alum. Heads, and run 93 octane. For ignition I run a stock HEI dist. set up with Lars method, MSD blaster II coil, and a MSD 6A box.

Would I have to get a MSD box made for a blower, or some type of computerized timing control?

This blower motor idea seems be getting more expensive as I learn more about it.

 

This isn't for a class Dad.

It was going to be a surprise... but I'm building a blown small block for you as a Christmas gift. I have the block and all the parts in my dorm room right now. When it’s done I was going to bring it home and swap it into your car.

 

Centrifugal chargers are nice but aren't they like double the price?

My friend had a procharger with intercooler in his 98 camaro SS. The car dynoed at 550-575rwhp and used to smoke the tires at 65mph on the highway. He pulled the motor out and built it with new crank, pistons, and rods. He had a custom grind blower cam and everthing was set up for the supercharger. I heard that he spent ~$8,000 on the whole set up.

 

jimvette999

Its looks like you have the same size hood as me, I got mine from vanacor. So you think the blower would have fit with a shorter air filter?
I also see that you are running nitrous, is it a plate kit? How much does the plate add to the overall height?

I clicked on the link for your pictures but it says not available, I think its a problem with my computer though. It doesn't even open for some reason

 

I have just finished building my blower BBC and you bettter belive it wasn't cheap. don't forget the rest of the car you have to build to handle the engine now.

 

http://www.superchevy-web.com/tech/0307sc_dm10/

 

Would of made more power if at 9to1 and had no problem with 100 octane fuel,also would of made more power at 6psi and been safe with 9to1, especially with alum heads which is the only way to go,effectively you can go 1 point higher in comp,They could of made the same boost at a lower blower drive speed and made more power.

 

your a young gun like me.. I would do a procharger but it takes some modifications they are listed on this website you can keep everything under the hood and get more hp than a roots . More boost on pump gas
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com/hotCars.php?car=45
check it out you will like. get a front mount intercooler and hello hp

 

Looks and reads more like an add for there products,two cracked blocks damn, a lot of work for only 500 hp,and a cluster under that hood.The only way to do a procharger system on a vette with clean results is a reverse rotation inverted in front of the water pump system.I give credit for all there work.A roots would of been very simple for the same power.I have pics of a 1000hp procharger camaro if you want to see that,In the future I will have pics of the f3r in a vette.