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I have been converting my TH350 Auto to a Ford T5 five speed. The transmission is in and I have been working on the crossmember and rear support for the T5. With the car nice and high I inspected the engine area and found some leaks I want to fix. I got the cross brace and support in yesterday so I started changing the front motor mounts. I started with the right side, removed the old one, which was completely shot, and installed a new one. It took about 30 minutes. The left one took me the rest of the day! The left one was shot as well; both mounts were completely separated! I could not get the bolt holes to line up on the engine. I finally said a small prayer and the top right bolt started. I said another prayer and the top left bolt started. I used a big pipe wrench to pull the mount enough to get the bottom bolt in. Once they were torqued, with the engine lowered a little the long bolt slid easily into place. Now I can start on the leaks and the hydtaulics for the clutch. I hope your projects were a little more cooperative!
Bernie
Comp, I have posted pics earlier when I got the T5 installed along with the components I have gathered to complete the job. The cross member needs to be removed, some welding done and painted. I modified the original tranny support to match the T5 rear support and have it bolted in place untill I was sure it is the way I want it. The T5 is centered in the tunnel and lines up nicely with the diff. I will measure the distance today so I can get the drive shaft shortened. I will post a complete set of pictures when I get the support painted and the pedals and hyds in.
Bernie
Actually this swap was very easy. Norval said that unless you knew the vehicle the chevy tranny came out of it was difficult to know for sure if you were getting a tranny from a V8 car. Plus it is a lot less expensive.
Bernie
Actually this swap was very easy. Norval said that unless you knew the vehicle the chevy tranny came out of it was difficult to know for sure if you were getting a tranny from a V8 car. Plus it is a lot less expensive.
Bernie
Bernie you are still avoiding the hardest part of the swap. The pedals. They totally suck. Once the pedals are in you can breathe easy but be prepared to lay in the most uncomfortable position you can imagine working upside down in a cramped environment.
Guaranteed you will love the Mustang T5 conversion
Norval, I thought I was saving the best for last! I have a friend who is 5'1" tall and a great mechanic that owes me big time. But now is the time to start that part of the job, so I will let you know how bad it is!
Bernie
Remove the seat first. And if you still need more room. Remove steering wheel. Whenever I work under the dash I take the seat out.
Removing the steering wheel is not an option. It is compusory. To drop the wheel undo the rag joint, the two bolts in the firewall, remove the cover under the steering wheel, lay the wheel on the seat and unplug 2 black and one long grey plug and lift the wheel out. 5 or 10 minutes then take the seat out.
There are 10 bolts holding the pedal in, 4 in the wiper well and 6 under the dash.
I bought a new rag joint today along with new bushings for the rear diff. I have been at the hospital tonight visiting two different friends with serious problems. Instead of praying for bolts to go in I will be asking for something more important in the days to come. One has a tumor on the left front of her brain an the other has a blockage in her small intestine. Tomorrow is our 38th wedding aniversary and we will probably be celebrating back at the hospital.
I will get back to the vette this week and try to get the steering column and pedals removed. I need to send Doug and Norval plane tickets to Knoxville to help me! But I have a few friends to help if I can keep them healthy.
I need to do a little trimming on the tunnel for just a shade more clearance on the right side and cut a corner of the floor so the clutch fork will clear.
I need time more than anything to push this project along.
Bernie