Frame came off today!!!!!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,606
Likes: 14
From: Vacaville, CA
Frame came off today!!!!!
I got the frame off my "basket case" '69 today. A little/lot of dissapointment though. I have bought 4-cars off the internet and have had problems with each one. This one has a couple of good tears in the fiberglass; under the passenger seat and in the transmission tunnel. Major glass work needed. Also, I found the frame to be rot-free, but was sectioned just in-front of the transmission crossmember.
By the way, the scaffolding and electric hoist I built worked great.
By the way, the scaffolding and electric hoist I built worked great.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,606
Likes: 14
From: Vacaville, CA
I was planning on cleaning-up this frame with the Eastwood metal prep kit and the long spray wand. But after adding-up all the cost I will be 4-5,000 into this frame alone; (I was planning on getting the VB&P transverse suspension kit, the Steeroids rack, and offset trailing arms). If I can get $2,000 for this frame as a roller I'm getting close to what a complete SRIII frame would run. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,000
Likes: 22
From: Boulder Creek California
Is that scaffolding all wood? Other than the brackets at the top of course?
-Chris
edit: Upon further looking at the picture the answer has become obvious I think. What size are the side and top beams?
-Chris
edit: Upon further looking at the picture the answer has become obvious I think. What size are the side and top beams?
Last edited by LiveandLetDrive; Dec 11, 2005 at 01:58 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,083
Likes: 2
From: Montreal Qc.
Originally Posted by BlackRocket
By the way, the scaffolding and electric hoist I built worked great.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,606
Likes: 14
From: Vacaville, CA
Yep, it's wood; 4x6" beams....cost about $150 for everything and I can assemble/disassemble in about 15 minutes! I was going to use metal, but too many $$$ for a 2xuse item. It seemed that the body is not all that heavy even with the doors on. I forgot to disconnect the parking brake U-shaped harness under the car and almost ripped another hole in her! 
Last edited by BlackRocket; Dec 11, 2005 at 04:24 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,429
Likes: 19
From: Northern CA
St. Jude Donor '10-'12, '25
Nice lift and support frame. 
I'm getting ready to lift my body as well, just need the straps and hoist. I see you strapped the front end, do you see it was necessary? Did you place the body on anything?
I'm getting ready to lift my body as well, just need the straps and hoist. I see you strapped the front end, do you see it was necessary? Did you place the body on anything?
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,131
Likes: 4
From: May help you? You can sure as hell try!
Reproduction frame sections are available if you don't think you can make the sectioned area look respectable again. A good welder can weld in the repair section, grind the welds flush and you'd never know it was repaired. I wouldn't sweat the glass repairs either...piece of cake and easily concealed. The previous owner of my '68 apparently had an off road experience with my car and cracked the toe board area. I repaired it by glassing the floors in the cracked area from inside with fiberglass mat and filled the outside with long strand filler. The inside repair is concealed by the carpet and the outside is blacked out and covered by the splash shield. The repair is also as solid as any other area of the car. Fiberglass cracks are part of Corvette life.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,606
Likes: 14
From: Vacaville, CA
I found that the front end was sagging and after I put the rope on it felt much better. Just placed a loop and shanked the rope up tight. I also built a "cartfrom hell" so to speak...made it out of 1.5" square tubing and 6 castered wheels. I'll post a picture of it when I gat a chance.
B-R
B-R
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
From previous posts, I'd been led to believe that the doors were not strong enough to support the rear of a Convertible body if you lifted the body. Until now the few pictures on this forum that I've seen showing a Convertible body being lifted, have shown the doors removed with a bracket/brace attaching the hindge mounts to the striker. Your picture says that you can lift a Convertible body with the rear portion supported by the doors only. Interesting. Good to know.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 3
From: East Waterboro Maine
Looking good so far!
I know what you mean about the nose sagging, I found the same thing. I didn't dare leave the nose unsupported, I was scared I would crack the fiberglass.
I took my body off with an engine hoist, I'll definitely be building a similar frame to put it back on. The engine hoist worked, but it was rough.
I know what you mean about the nose sagging, I found the same thing. I didn't dare leave the nose unsupported, I was scared I would crack the fiberglass.
I took my body off with an engine hoist, I'll definitely be building a similar frame to put it back on. The engine hoist worked, but it was rough.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,606
Likes: 14
From: Vacaville, CA
Yep, the hoist is a Harbor Freight 1,300#. I was able to do everything by myself with this set-up! That's why you see the ladder on the left-side....prevented body from swinging in the wind!!!
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Brampton, Ontario
Do you think that with this set-up, you could leave the body suspended for the length of the restoration? The reason I ask is that I would like to do the same thing as you, but leave the body in the air and put the frame underneath. I have a 2 car garage, and would like to be able to use the 2nd side for a car that actually goes vrooom......
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,685
Likes: 202
From: Waterford Mi
Lokks alot like what I have done. Only I used come-a-longs. One inthe front and one for the lift straps. I didn't like the straps pulling in on the door skins so I cut a 2X4 and ran it out across the doors to push the straps out and that seem to reduce the stress on the doors.