406 rotating assembly
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 453
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
406 rotating assembly
I will be putting together the rest of my 406 hopefully sometime in the near future. I haven't decided on what pieces yet, but I'm leaning towards forged. It won't be seeing any track time but I want it to be solid.
Any recommendations on where to pickup a reasonably priced forged kit?
Thanks
Any recommendations on where to pickup a reasonably priced forged kit?
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,804
Likes: 1
From: OKC Oklahoma
No need to go forged with a street car. Look at Scat or Eagle with an internal balance. You will be able to get a full rotating assembly through cnc motorsports or racers outlet on ebay for less than $1250.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
From: Creswell OR
This post is interesting to me.I just picked up a real nice 400 4 bolt main block,crank and rods.I would like to build a motor in the 375-400 hp.range.Without having a whole lot of money,I was hoping to use the stock cast rotating assembly.Is that pushing the limit.Should I also go for a nice forged assembly?When I put this motor together,I want to do it right the first time.Maybe I should try to come up with the extra cash to be on the safe side.Hoping you motorheads will chime in.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,804
Likes: 1
From: OKC Oklahoma
Originally Posted by BLACKHORSEVET
This post is interesting to me.I just picked up a real nice 400 4 bolt main block,crank and rods.I would like to build a motor in the 375-400 hp.range.Without having a whole lot of money,I was hoping to use the stock cast rotating assembly.Is that pushing the limit.Should I also go for a nice forged assembly?When I put this motor together,I want to do it right the first time.Maybe I should try to come up with the extra cash to be on the safe side.Hoping you motorheads will chime in.
By the way, the stock crank should be fine, but it may be more cost effective to go aftermarket if you have to have the stock crank ground. Also, the stock rods are 5.565". You do not want to reuse those and if you did you could almost pick up a set of Eagle or Scat rods for what it cost to recondition the stock ones. You will want to go with a 5.7" or 6" rod.
Last edited by 79VetteMike; Dec 12, 2005 at 12:46 AM.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
From: Creswell OR
Originally Posted by 79VetteMike
An internally balanced Scat, Eagle or combination of both will EASILY good for that. I personally have had good luck with Scat cranks and Eagle rods, but not saying they are any better than any other. I've used a Scat crank with Eagle SIR I beam rods and Keith Black pistons on a 400 and my machine shop found it very easy to internally balance without having to add expensive mallory metal.
By the way, the stock crank should be fine, but it may be more cost effective to go aftermarket if you have to have the stock crank ground. Also, the stock rods are 5.565". You do not want to reuse those and if you did you could almost pick up a set of Eagle or Scat rods for what it cost to recondition the stock ones. You will want to go with a 5.7" or 6" rod.
By the way, the stock crank should be fine, but it may be more cost effective to go aftermarket if you have to have the stock crank ground. Also, the stock rods are 5.565". You do not want to reuse those and if you did you could almost pick up a set of Eagle or Scat rods for what it cost to recondition the stock ones. You will want to go with a 5.7" or 6" rod.
Good information here.Can someone explain what the difference would be with the 5.7"-6" rods?Does that just depend on what crank is bought?Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,804
Likes: 1
From: OKC Oklahoma
Originally Posted by BLACKHORSEVET
Good information here.Can someone explain what the difference would be with the 5.7"-6" rods?Does that just depend on what crank is bought?Thanks
Last edited by 79VetteMike; Dec 12, 2005 at 01:26 AM.
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88,393
Likes: 2
From: eville in
Originally Posted by blctalon
I will be putting together the rest of my 406 hopefully sometime in the near future. I haven't decided on what pieces yet, but I'm leaning towards forged. It won't be seeing any track time but I want it to be solid.
Any recommendations on where to pickup a reasonably priced forged kit?
Thanks
Any recommendations on where to pickup a reasonably priced forged kit?
Thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,711
Likes: 43
From: San Antonio TX
Originally Posted by BLACKHORSEVET
Good information here.Can someone explain what the difference would be with the 5.7"-6" rods?Does that just depend on what crank is bought?Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Originally Posted by gerry72
To add to what Mike wrote, the "difference" is in the crank counterweights. The 6.0 crank's counterweights are cut down to clear the piston slipper skirt. If you try to use 6.0 rods on a 5.7 crank, the pistons will likely not clear the counterweights. The counterweight difference is also the reason that it is easier (cheaper) to internally balance a 5.7 rod crank since you have more mass to start with. Just providing the abbreviated version.
Originally Posted by BLACKHORSEVET
This post is interesting to me.I just picked up a real nice 400 4 bolt main block,crank and rods.I would like to build a motor in the 375-400 hp.range.Without having a whole lot of money,I was hoping to use the stock cast rotating assembly.Is that pushing the limit.Should I also go for a nice forged assembly?When I put this motor together,I want to do it right the first time.Maybe I should try to come up with the extra cash to be on the safe side.Hoping you motorheads will chime in.
Do use a CR calculator as you plan a motor ... this one works good:
http://www.campbellenterprises.com/R...o%20calculator
BTW ... if you need a set of pistons for a sbc400-406 ... I have new set of liteweight thirty-over SpeedPro skirt-coated flattop H122CL30 and new SpeedPro Moly rings ... for 6" rod 400/406 ... makes 9.8:1 CR w/ OE 400 heads. Bare piston weighs 461g, pin 105g. Pistons, pins, locks, support rails, ringpak All new never run ... I'll take $290 for pistons, pins & rings and ... depending where you are in USA I'll pay FedEx ground shipping ... and NO I won't sell cheaper.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
From: Creswell OR
Jackson,
Appreciate the offer on the pistons,but right now I need to store this block for awhile because I don't have the money to build it.Also apreciate the extra tidbits of information.I'm still uncertain about the 5.7-6.0 rods.Is there a better choice between the two? Seems I've heard of more people using the 6.0.I also don't have the heads,so need to go with an aftermarket brand.Looks like a small combustion chamber will put the cr.up too high with flat tops.
The info is really helping me figure things out.And others also.Chime in motorheads !!!!!!!
Appreciate the offer on the pistons,but right now I need to store this block for awhile because I don't have the money to build it.Also apreciate the extra tidbits of information.I'm still uncertain about the 5.7-6.0 rods.Is there a better choice between the two? Seems I've heard of more people using the 6.0.I also don't have the heads,so need to go with an aftermarket brand.Looks like a small combustion chamber will put the cr.up too high with flat tops.
The info is really helping me figure things out.And others also.Chime in motorheads !!!!!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Originally Posted by BLACKHORSEVET
Jackson,
Appreciate the offer on the pistons,but right now I need to store this block for awhile because I don't have the money to build it.Also apreciate the extra tidbits of information.I'm still uncertain about the 5.7-6.0 rods.Is there a better choice between the two? Seems I've heard of more people using the 6.0.I also don't have the heads,so need to go with an aftermarket brand.Looks like a small combustion chamber will put the cr.up too high with flat tops.The info is really helping me figure things out.And others also.Chime in motorheads !!!!!!!
Appreciate the offer on the pistons,but right now I need to store this block for awhile because I don't have the money to build it.Also apreciate the extra tidbits of information.I'm still uncertain about the 5.7-6.0 rods.Is there a better choice between the two? Seems I've heard of more people using the 6.0.I also don't have the heads,so need to go with an aftermarket brand.Looks like a small combustion chamber will put the cr.up too high with flat tops.The info is really helping me figure things out.And others also.Chime in motorheads !!!!!!!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 453
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
Hey guys, thanks for the posts. I think I'm pretty much decided on the forged assembly. I might give it hell every once in a while and I don't want it falling apart! I'm building an engine that was on chevyhiperformance.com a while back. It was a 406 with AFR competition 180cc intake runners and 64 cc combustion milled to 68cc. I think they used a -22 pistons. This combination made 490 horsepower and 524 lbs torque all under under 5600 rpms on 87 octane. They used a scat 9000 crank, but I think the rods and pistons were forged. I orderd the heads in Septemeber and the wait was quite long, though I should have them this month.
As for the kit. I'm talking to the guy I actually ended up going through to get the heads. Paul and Nick over at http://www.treperformance.com I found them on ebay orginally. They seem to specialize in mainly Ford stuff, but I talked to them when I ordered the heads and they said they could hook me up with other stuff I might need. Their price seems reasonable compared to other online sales. Now I just gotta save up money again.
Lates
As for the kit. I'm talking to the guy I actually ended up going through to get the heads. Paul and Nick over at http://www.treperformance.com I found them on ebay orginally. They seem to specialize in mainly Ford stuff, but I talked to them when I ordered the heads and they said they could hook me up with other stuff I might need. Their price seems reasonable compared to other online sales. Now I just gotta save up money again.
Lates
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,025
Likes: 1
From: Billings MT
Internally Balanced SCAT 9000 Series Crank
SCAT 6.0" H-beam rods with 7/16" Cap Screws
SRP Forged Pistons, flat top, 424g
Speed Pro File-Fit Rings
Speed Pro H-14 main and rod bearings
100+ Drag strip passes, 7300rpm, 12000 street miles and still rocking.
SCAT 6.0" H-beam rods with 7/16" Cap Screws
SRP Forged Pistons, flat top, 424g
Speed Pro File-Fit Rings
Speed Pro H-14 main and rod bearings
100+ Drag strip passes, 7300rpm, 12000 street miles and still rocking.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 453
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
