383 Holley Question
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,874
Likes: 7
From: l In
383 Holley Question
Anybody running a 750 Vac secondarie Holley on their 383, I want to know what size jets to start with.
9.7/1 pistons , 64cc iron heads 2.02/1.6 041 heads, 268 HE cam, 2500 stall converter, headers
Thanks in advance
9.7/1 pistons , 64cc iron heads 2.02/1.6 041 heads, 268 HE cam, 2500 stall converter, headers
Thanks in advance
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,924
Likes: 735
From: Youngstown Ohio
Originally Posted by Phil Zell
Anybody running a 750 Vac secondarie Holley on their 383, I want to know what size jets to start with.
9.7/1 pistons , 64cc iron heads 2.02/1.6 041 heads, 268 HE cam, 2500 stall converter, headers
Thanks in advance
9.7/1 pistons , 64cc iron heads 2.02/1.6 041 heads, 268 HE cam, 2500 stall converter, headers
Thanks in advance
Pro
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 500
Likes: 1
From: Philadelphia PA
I agree. You can look up the stock jetting numbers on the Holley website.
Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
Since all engines are tuned individually for best performance, I would start with the stock jetting (with a Holley or any carb) before changing anything.....then make your adjustments, leaner or richer as needed.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,711
Likes: 43
From: San Antonio TX
IIRC, the factory jetting for the 3310 is a 72 primary and the secondary uses a metering plate that translates into 78 jets.
Out of the box metering will be very close for most applications. You might experience a slight hesitation in your part-throttle transitions and maybe some light surging. You can address this in the primary jet by going up two jet sizes. If you want to work the secondary metering, you'll have to spend the 40 bucks for the secondary plate to block conversion kit, but I doubt you'll need to.
One area that you will have to address is the secondary spring. The factory spring is far too stiff. Spend the six bucks for the spring kit and tune your secondary opening. You'll want to start with the lightest spring. If you feel a bog on full throttle, put the next heaviest spring in and go from there. I really doubt that you'll be able to get past the 2nd lightest spring.
It's not uncommon for the 3310 to have a fat idle depending on the cam overlap. You have to pay attention to the primary throttle opening to ensure you don't expose the idle transfer slots. Most of the time you can tune the idle with a little more secondary throttle opening. You might also have to restrict the idle fuel channel restrictors with a couple of pieces of .015 to .020 wire (the web has info on where to place the wires).
With a 3310, you will almost never have to fiddle with the pump cam or shooters. You may have to adjust the pump lever a bit but leave the cam and shooters alone.
The 3310 is a pretty good out of the box carb with the exception of the secondary spring. Leave it alone until you clearly identify what it needs to run better on your car.
Out of the box metering will be very close for most applications. You might experience a slight hesitation in your part-throttle transitions and maybe some light surging. You can address this in the primary jet by going up two jet sizes. If you want to work the secondary metering, you'll have to spend the 40 bucks for the secondary plate to block conversion kit, but I doubt you'll need to.
One area that you will have to address is the secondary spring. The factory spring is far too stiff. Spend the six bucks for the spring kit and tune your secondary opening. You'll want to start with the lightest spring. If you feel a bog on full throttle, put the next heaviest spring in and go from there. I really doubt that you'll be able to get past the 2nd lightest spring.
It's not uncommon for the 3310 to have a fat idle depending on the cam overlap. You have to pay attention to the primary throttle opening to ensure you don't expose the idle transfer slots. Most of the time you can tune the idle with a little more secondary throttle opening. You might also have to restrict the idle fuel channel restrictors with a couple of pieces of .015 to .020 wire (the web has info on where to place the wires).
With a 3310, you will almost never have to fiddle with the pump cam or shooters. You may have to adjust the pump lever a bit but leave the cam and shooters alone.
The 3310 is a pretty good out of the box carb with the exception of the secondary spring. Leave it alone until you clearly identify what it needs to run better on your car.
