I've done the greased cavity/drift method before but only on engines that were out and going for rebuild. My question is:
Isn't it a bad thing to smack the crank if the mains are not going to be replaced. I've found some pilot shaft bushing removal tools but the are expensive. I just don't have a good feeling about smacking my engines crank when the engine has less that 5000 miles on it. What do you guys think? Will hitting it hurt the mains? If there is any possibility of engine damage, does anyone have a pilot shaft bushing removal tool I can borrow?
Thanks

 

Have you tried calling a local rental place and see if you can rent the pilot tool?..also, I've heard, either advanced auto or auto zone will borrow out tools, I guess if you were to buy the bearing from them...gotta make money some how, they do...
And when you talk about hitting the crank...in the past, a tap, tap, tap was sufficient...I don't recall needing a 20 lb. sledge hammer to put in a pilot bearing....just my 2 cents...

 

I would try borrowing a tool. That should be the best way. I agree that pounding on the crank isn't the best idea.

 

I rented a puller from Advanced Auto parts. They didn’t charge for this and I already had a slide hammer. The thrust bearing surface on the rear main is large and takes the force of normal removal and installation without damage. The GM maintenance manual describes a “pilot bearing driver” being used in the clutch replacement section requiring the impact method.

The word "smack" sounds a little heavy, I used a 2 pound brass hammer and some medium taps to remove and replace mine.

Hope this was helpful.

 

You are being way too paranoid! How much "smack" do you think gets put on the crank when you dump the clutch at about three grand or more?

The "grease and dowel" method is the most reliable and fastest method - go for it.

 

Good thread! How about the proper method for installing one, I just recd. my crate motor and have to put one in.

Bill

 

Think about it. You might be able to use a puller to remove it but getting the new one in there is gonna require a "Ford Tool" to install The grease/wood dowell method is pretty tame next to what you will have to do to get the new one in there. Your thrust bearing should have nothing to worry about.

-Mark.

 

not a fan of the grease and dowl method
a puller can be had easily at advanced or auto zone, rent or buy ( 35 $ )
and if all else fails drill it out. ive done this countless times and it works like a champ. of course you will use a smaller bit than the crank hole!
and for installation, simply put it in the freezer for 1/2 hr. brfore you install. it will almost fall in!

 

Another method of removal that is cheap and simple is to use a long bolt slightly larger than the pilot bushing inside diameter. Taper grind down the first few teeth of the bolt. Start screwing the bolt into the bushing. The teeth of the bolt will be forced into the inside of the soft bronze bushing. When the bolt bottoms out in the cranksaft it will gently pull the bushing out.

 

Try a tap, 5/8 if I remember correctly, as it hits the crank the bushing will walk itself out.
...redvetracr

 

5/8"-11 tpi

 

I have a puller and will lend to you ,,,,,,, you pickup the postage . email me

Geo

 

Thanks.

Hope I'm not stealing your thread, theandies, it was so close to a question I was about to post.

Bill

 

Harbor Freight tools sells a pilot bushing puller. $15.

Personally, I've used the grease and dowel method numerous times and it works great! Don't forget that there will always be some air in the cavity along with the grease. The air absorbs some of the shock even though the pressure is high enough to drive the bushing out. You are also pounding on a wooden dowel which, in and of itself, absorbs some of the blow.

 

I got the free rental tool from autozone and it made it sooooo easy. The tool has expanding jaws that grip the bushing/bearing in the inside and a slide hammer. A few good pulls and it popped out.

 

I hydrauliced mine out with a few easy smacks....and replaced it just as easly...

 

Hmmm...the new ones don't require *that* much effort to replace. A few light taps with your knuckles or a rubber mallet...

 

Thanks all for the info.
GEO - If my local parts house dosen't have one I'll take you up on your offer. It will be the first of the year......I'll be in touch.

redc3 - I've done that with most all bushings/races etc for years. Good tip for all the younger gearheads here I put my new diff crossmember top hat bushing in the freezer for a few days before I installed them and the almost fell in.

 

we used to install bushings in the arms and buckets of bulldozers and earth movers. the bushings where placed in dry ice and the arms heated with rosebuds. the clearances were that tight!

 

I bought one of Harbor Freights pilot bearing pullers... for doing a OEM Mustang 5.0 5spd roller pilot bearing... it worked, but the fingers rounded off almost completely. I won't buy another one from them... the steel is extremely soft.... even though it looks like "tool" steel, it's soft like poo. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.

The dowl/grease method is sure worth a shot (I've used it), but no way a dowl would have worked on that 5.0 application. Sometimes they are way too tight for the dowl method... even on Chevies.