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for those who have installed a aftermarket a/c does it use any of the factory a/c or heater case? my 71 is a factory a/c car but the compressor and brackets are missing and the system has been open to the high humidity Louisiana air for the last 15 years so whats left I am sure is useless. I will keep all the parts removed just in case. the front clip and body are off so now would be a good time to remove the factory case if it is not needed. thanks
If all you are missing is the compressor/mount, then why don't you just get those, as well as the conversion valve for 134a, from the aftermarket? An evaporator (and condensor) doesn't know what compressor is in the system. The entire conversion kits are more for someone installing A/C in a car that didn't originally have one. It doesn't make sense to install a retrofit fit system in a car that already has A/C.
As to the open system, all you need to do is to flush the existing system, replace the dryer and pump the system down.
the aftermarket kits use all new components - nothing is retained from your old a/c system. AND you have to use a non-a/c switch assembly - since the a/m kits are mechanical they can't use the vacuum controls of the factory a/c unit.
Classic Auto Air and Vintage Air are the 2 new systems I've heard the most about, I've actually installed a CAA unit in a prior car - would definitely take their unit over a factory setup if originality wasn't an issue...
As to the open system, all you need to do is to flush the existing system, replace the dryer and pump the system down.[/QUOTE]
once the system has been open that long 15 years in high humidity,it will have scae/ corrosion built up on the insides of the aluminum parts and will be next to impossible to flush completely. you also have to wonder why it was disconected in the first place, it had to have problems or they would have left it hooked up. I am not building this car as an investment or to resell so originallity is not all that important. I could not replace the factory system components for $1100.00. I may nort even put a/c back in it since the top will be down 90% of the time. I only used the a/c on my 81 once or twice, the wife was with me both times.
I custom fit a VA unit in my non-air 69 Vette several years ago. It is quite possibly one of the coolest (pun intended) mods on the car. I was able to shave my firewall flush on the passenger side yielding tons of more working room and plenty of slick eye candy.
The unit performs as good as any new car system. On a triple black convertible I am still able to get it frosty cold inside during the dog days of Florida summer.
This is not a quick project and it does require some special tools or access to them at the very least. To pay a shop to do such a job would be ultra high dollar.
VA told me last year they are working on two direct fit C3 systems. I have not checked so I don't the status on those now.
As most of you know there really is no such thing as "bolt on" anyway in this area.
I can tell you that you won't regret the decision AND you will find yourself enjoying the car far more than you could ever imagine now.
I'm in the process of putting a Classic Air kit into my 68 Chevelle. My car was origionally a Factory A/C car but in it's 37 years other owners have removed and lost most of the system. I could have replaced what was missing and kept the stock setup, but honestly, I like being able to get to the P/S cylinders. You'd think a Chevelle wouldn't be that tight with a Big Block, but it is. My car isn't numbers matching, or origional color so I don't care about it being origional.
Gator79, I live just a stones throw over in Eunice.
A/C is a very nice option here in the very hot deep south. Also beware that converting your origional systen to 134 will work OK at night and on warm days, but when the heat index is 105 it just dosen't cut it. R12 is the way to go. If I were you I would search for the parts to put your system back to it's origional configuration. Charge it with freeze 12 and look for leaks, then and when its working OK--about like 134, dump the freeze 12 and recharge with R12. You won't regreat it. Thad
My Hot Rod Air kit should be delivered the 1st week of January. The kit is supposed to hook up to my current A/C switch, but I haven't seen the actual setup yet. The HRA system is vac/elec, so they may be using the vac on the stock controller to drive the system & bypassing the relays. A stock HRA system uses a relay from the switch to allow the vac to open the proper actuator (hot water intake, heat/defrost panel, dash vents). It uses one vac line to power all three actuators, so it should be easy to chunk the relays & directly implement the vac off the stock A/C controller. I'm not sure which way they are doing it, but either way (stock A/C controller or non-A/C controller) is fine with me. I was not interested in a controller that did not look stock. This is going on a 79, & I am not familar with the thumbwheel.
BTW, I too was interested in getting the evap out from under the hood. It cleans up the engine compartment & gives me a great place to mount an ignition controller. For the most part, I don't care about originality and others with this unit have remarked about it freezing your gonads off.
Also beware that converting your origional systen to 134 will work OK at night and on warm days, but when the heat index is 105 it just dosen't cut it. R12 is the way to go.
Not so. Once a R134a retrofit is setup correctly the only difference is a slightly longer time until it cools off. The final air temp out of the vents is the same. I'm getting low 40's out the vents on my R134a '71 on a 90F day. It's a daily driver so it has to endure 110F days here in Dallas traffic.