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I am planning on visiting a junkyard that supposedly has a lot of chevy 350 blocks- one of those pick and pulls places. I'm just looking for a block to replace the one in the '79.
What is the year range that I can safely buy a replacement block that will fit my car. For example , will any 350 work up until 1993, 95 etc.?
Or should I be looking at numbers on the blocks?
I'm using a 4bolt block out of an 85 3/4 ton Suburban. If you're looking to reuse your existing crank, then you'll be limited to the older blocks designed to use a 2 piece rear main seal. Blocks with a 1 piece seal began production in 1986. Also, unless you're going to build an extremely high performance engine, then most will tell you that a 2bolt block will work well.
Last edited by marshrat99; Dec 22, 2005 at 01:12 PM.
If you want a roller engine takes the intake off and look for the spider tray. Its a little tray that has 8 legs and hold down the retaining plates for the roller lifters. Try and stay under 85 just to be safe.
Good point- I do want to use my exisitng internals- crankshaft etc.
so it sounds like any pre 1986 block will work.
Am I allowed to switch to a 2 Bolt block even though my original crank is from a 4 bolt?
70 thru 80 sbc 400 block will work too ... your heads, intake, rods, cam & crank (with right bearings) will bolt right up with aftermarket pistons and small steam holes drilled into your heads. A thirty over 400 block with flattops & 350 crank makes 377ci at about 9.3:1 CR with your 79's heads ... makes a nice strong combo ... similar to a big 302. Good 350 block'll be much easier to find & cheaper than good 400.
70 thru 80 sbc 400 block will work too ... your heads, intake, rods, cam & crank (with right bearings) will bolt right up with aftermarket pistons and small steam holes drilled into your heads. A thirty over 400 block with flattops & 350 crank makes 377ci at about 9.3:1 CR with your 79's heads ... makes a nice strong combo ... similar to a big 302. Good 350 block'll be much easier to find & cheaper than good 400.
No the 400 block will not work with the existing crank. The mains are different sizes.
No the 400 block will not work with the existing crank. The mains are different sizes.
You are correct in that the mains are different sizes.
But you are mistaken in that they will not work. Yes they will work; As I wrote above (with right bearings). Clevite main bearing set P/N MS-1564P is specifically designed to use 350 crank's smaller 2.45" main journals in 400 block's larger bearing housing bores. 350 crank in 400 block not uncommon; I've done more than one.
BTW, MANY years ago, chevy Cup motors began using 400 block with '68-up 327 crank (also 2.45" journal). Today's chevy Cup motors still use same basic borexstroke combo ... but with bowtie blocks & aftermarket cranks.
I did miss your "with correct bearings" it will fit. If you are going for cubic inches why not stroke the 400. for even more power. I guess we are getting off the point here. Around here 400 blocks are getting quite scarce or a premium price is on them.
I am not exactly sure of the dipstick change over year but when I was looking for an engine for my 77 some of the years blocks that I looked at had the dipstick on the right side of the block. My block came from a 78 and it had the dipstick on the drivers side which was correct for my model year. I dont know enough about your vette to know which side your dipstick is on. That was my block shopping knowledge.
I've got the 80-85 block in my 78. I had to bend the RH dipstick tube to get it to fit in there right and that was a pain in the ***, I broke two before I got it to work.
I've got the 80-85 block in my 78. I had to bend the RH dipstick tube to get it to fit in there right and that was a pain in the ***, I broke two before I got it to work.
I had the same experience with my 85 block. I had trouble finding one that would fit. Ended up using an Autozone "big block" tube and had to shorten it. I found that it fit very snug and had to sand the end going into the block some.
Good point- I do want to use my exisitng internals- crankshaft etc.
so it sounds like any pre 1986 block will work.
Am I allowed to switch to a 2 Bolt block even though my original crank is from a 4 bolt?
I don't believe it makes a difference 2 bolt ot 4 bolt. Many guys I have asked say a 2 bolt is just as good as a four & can handle up to 400 hp.
am I wrong.
I spent the day at the J-Yard and they had some 350s there (in the cars). I tried to turn the crank bolt on some of them and the crank bolt broke on all . Not sure if this means that it is locked up or old and rusty.
My question is : How do know if the bare block is good or bad. Does the fact that the crank won't turn necessarily mean that the bare block is bad somehow? I don't need anything inside of them- pistons or crank...
I spent the day at the J-Yard and they had some 350s there (in the cars). I tried to turn the crank bolt on some of them and the crank bolt broke on all . Not sure if this means that it is locked up or old and rusty.
My question is : How do know if the bare block is good or bad. Does the fact that the crank won't turn necessarily mean that the bare block is bad somehow? I don't need anything inside of them- pistons or crank...
You cannot know without complete disassembly and inspection. Not uncommon for JY motors to lock because of rust/water ... several valves are open all the time ... water gets in & rusts or hydraulic locks. Rollovers/hard hits often jam trans/starter & lock motor. Heck ... old AC comp locked up will keep motor from turning over. Get the JY to guarantee an exchange on block only ... no cracks, no spun main/cam journal bores, cylinders will clean up at +30 or less overbore. Have JY record OE pad stamp numbers.