Ebay Surprise--.060 Over Block
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,926
Likes: 739
From: Youngstown Ohio
Originally Posted by hawgn68
Arghhhh, I took a gamble and bought a "383" short block off Ebay. When I got it, I noticed that the pistons are TRW forged .060 over (not a 383!). The rest of the rotating assmebly is forged, and worth more than I paid for the short block but I'm seeking experience with over bores.
Can a .060 block still be cooled, or am I setting my self up for recurring head aches? I was planning on running AFR 195 heads with an Air Gap RPM intake and a 230ish duration cam with .500ish lift shooting for around 10:1 compression. Should I just canibalize the internals and start with a new block, or will this 010 block still cut it? Thanks for any advice/war stories.
Jim
Can a .060 block still be cooled, or am I setting my self up for recurring head aches? I was planning on running AFR 195 heads with an Air Gap RPM intake and a 230ish duration cam with .500ish lift shooting for around 10:1 compression. Should I just canibalize the internals and start with a new block, or will this 010 block still cut it? Thanks for any advice/war stories.
Jim
388 cu. in. (.060 over)
AFR 195's, competition ported
RPM Air Gap
10.8 compression
230 @ .050, .617 lift (w/1.65 rockers) Comp Cams hyd. roller 286HR
This works well for me with no overheating problems.....170 on hot days using 3300 cfm electric fan. Idles at 850 rpm, good power to 6500 rpm. ....high 11's with 4.11 gear.
Recommendation.....Go for it!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 293
Likes: 2
From: Warrensburg, MO
C3 Stoker,
If you're in the 11's, you must be pushing 500+hp. I was going witht the AFR's because they are CNC ported. How much additional work did you do on your heads? I've got 3.73 gears and I'm planning on running a TKO 600 on my '69, so I need good torque 2-4000 rpm, so I'm going with a little less lift.
A friend that "has a buddy at a machine shop" said that when boring to .060, they always tap the back of the passenger side head and run a cooling line from the gooseneck to the tap that helps cooling dramatically. Anyone familiar with this surgery?
jim
If you're in the 11's, you must be pushing 500+hp. I was going witht the AFR's because they are CNC ported. How much additional work did you do on your heads? I've got 3.73 gears and I'm planning on running a TKO 600 on my '69, so I need good torque 2-4000 rpm, so I'm going with a little less lift.
A friend that "has a buddy at a machine shop" said that when boring to .060, they always tap the back of the passenger side head and run a cooling line from the gooseneck to the tap that helps cooling dramatically. Anyone familiar with this surgery?
jim
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,926
Likes: 739
From: Youngstown Ohio
Originally Posted by hawgn68
C3 Stoker,
If you're in the 11's, you must be pushing 500+hp. I was going witht the AFR's because they are CNC ported. How much additional work did you do on your heads? I've got 3.73 gears and I'm planning on running a TKO 600 on my '69, so I need good torque 2-4000 rpm, so I'm going with a little less lift.
jim
If you're in the 11's, you must be pushing 500+hp. I was going witht the AFR's because they are CNC ported. How much additional work did you do on your heads? I've got 3.73 gears and I'm planning on running a TKO 600 on my '69, so I need good torque 2-4000 rpm, so I'm going with a little less lift.
jim
