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I am taking the body off of my 71 vert and all the body mounts seem to be solid with no rubber. is this normal? there is basicly a round aluminum looking disc between the body and the frame about 3/8 inch thick. some have shims and others don't. I kept the shims in order witht the mounts.
Duntov specially designed the 73 up body mount bushings to be better & not hurt handling. Will help eliminate the creaks some complain about in the early models. Some have updated & are happy w/ the newer ones.
Rubber mounts are a great upgrade for older cars. Put them in my '69 big block roadster and am very happy. Body will sit about 3/8" higher, but can't tell the difference.
Rubber mounts are a great upgrade for older cars. Put them in my '69 big block roadster and am very happy. Body will sit about 3/8" higher, but can't tell the difference.
Duntov specially designed the 73 up body mount bushings to be better & not hurt handling. Will help eliminate the creaks some complain about in the early models. Some have updated & are happy w/ the newer ones.
the rubber donuts are just that, nothing special, same style as on all the other cars that use a frame mounted body...wht's so special about the design of the corvette mount?
the frame on yours has the taller mounting tabs, if you use the taller rubber mounts the body will sit noticably higher on the frame.
only 3/8" max higher with the poly's, much better ride. Only thing you'll have to do once the body is reinstalled is loosed the steering column for proper alignment.
mounts on my 71 while doing the body-off resto, in fact I had already purchased them. After considering everything I was concerned about the additional 3/8" body height and having issues with mounting the factory side pipe covers. My son and I also want the car as close as possible to the ground for looks and handling. Since it's not going to be a daily driver and the engine is almost 500 HP we decided not to go with rubber body mounts and use the original aluminum spacers which are $80 less. It's also a LT-1 and trying to keep as close to original is best.
My 72 has rubber mounts, which according to this post are not original (news to me). They have some cracking, but the rubber's not squishing out the side or anything.
My car sat outside for 8 years before I started the project last year. I've finished all my crack repairs (there were many small cracks, about and inch or half in long in the usual places- around headlights and fender wells, etc) using short strand filler, mostly, and am ready to start priming.
Please tell me it isn't a huge mistake to start painting without replacing these body mounts first....
My 72 has rubber mounts, which according to this post are not original (news to me). They have some cracking, but the rubber's not squishing out the side or anything.
My car sat outside for 8 years before I started the project last year. I've finished all my crack repairs (there were many small cracks, about and inch or half in long in the usual places- around headlights and fender wells, etc) using short strand filler, mostly, and am ready to start priming.
Please tell me it isn't a huge mistake to start painting without replacing these body mounts first....
-=Boston!=-
Well.... I'd do the mounts first. I replaced mine with poly and there's no noticeable increase in harshness... it squeeks a lot less that with the 25 year old worn rubber.... well, the old mounts were so shot that a potato between the frame and the body would have been an improvement
NHvette hosted a pdf document with lots of pictures for me, trying to find the link... search under my username and body mounts, you should find it...
The mounts can be replaced with the body on, all shown on my photos... G/L