Dead starter?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
From: Winston-Salem NC
Dead starter?
I just finished installing new intake manifold gaskets on my 69. Cranked the car and let it run for about 5 minutes, then shut it off to check for leaks. Everything looked good, so I went to start it again to take it out for a spin, and now it's dead. When I turn the ignition switch, nothing happens. Not even a click from the starter.
Lights and radio still work. When I turn the ignition switch to start it, the ammeter gauge goes to the negative side, about to the first line. I did a quick tug on the wires at the starter and the coil, and didn't see anything obviously loose.
Car is a 350 with a gear reduction mini starter. Over the last 2 months, it has gradually begun to crank slower and slower. I replaced the battery, thinking it was about to die, but that didn't help. Could the starter have just died on me, or should I go back in and check the wiring closer?
Thanks!
Jeff
Lights and radio still work. When I turn the ignition switch to start it, the ammeter gauge goes to the negative side, about to the first line. I did a quick tug on the wires at the starter and the coil, and didn't see anything obviously loose.
Car is a 350 with a gear reduction mini starter. Over the last 2 months, it has gradually begun to crank slower and slower. I replaced the battery, thinking it was about to die, but that didn't help. Could the starter have just died on me, or should I go back in and check the wiring closer?
Thanks!
Jeff
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
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From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
I'd like to ask the obvious, so bear with me...auto or 4 speed...why I ask, my 76, "occationally" will not start in the fashion you speak of because the shifter isn't completely in park, a shove forward and she'll fire...I guess you could have a flat spot on the starter, I just can't get on board with these starters just crappin' out all of a sudden, without some pre-notice of major problems...I hope this helps...good luck 
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
From: Winston-Salem NC
It's a manual transmission... I tried putting it in gear and rocking it back and forth, thinking that maybe the starter had just bound up in that position, but it didn't help.
Did I read one time that there is a fusible link in the wiring harness near the starter? Could that cause this problem? Would the lights and radio still work if it has melted down?
Jeff
Did I read one time that there is a fusible link in the wiring harness near the starter? Could that cause this problem? Would the lights and radio still work if it has melted down?
Jeff
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
Hmmm....can ya roll it and pop the clutch to get her started? That might shake something loose that's bound..
The fusable link has been brought up here often, and I can't honestly advise in that area, I don't have any experience regarding the f-link (yet)...plenty of guys on here today, maybe someone else will pop in...
The fusable link has been brought up here often, and I can't honestly advise in that area, I don't have any experience regarding the f-link (yet)...plenty of guys on here today, maybe someone else will pop in...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,720
Likes: 12
From: Chattanooga TN
Sounds like the starter to me. You might take it off and test it. Doubt the fusable link has anything to do with it since other stuff works. You might try to jumper the batt terminal to the starter terminal (in neutral of course) to rule out wiring.
GM used gear reduction starters on C4s and 4wd pickups that can be used on earlier engines. I like the Delco rebuilt from Advance or O'Rieleys.
GM used gear reduction starters on C4s and 4wd pickups that can be used on earlier engines. I like the Delco rebuilt from Advance or O'Rieleys.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,193
Likes: 176
From: Hillsborough NC
I would remove the unit and bench test it with some jumper cables from the battery. If that works, get some emory and make sure all of the contact points between the starter and engine block are clean and connected. Could be a bad ground, had that happen to me after I rebuilt my starter.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
From: Winston-Salem NC
Just had the starter checked at Auto Zone, and it's ok.
Found the fusible link... the insulation is all wrinkled and puckered looking, like it's been hot. But if I pull on both ends of it, it appears that the wire inside is all right. Should I replace it to be on the safe side?
Jeff
Found the fusible link... the insulation is all wrinkled and puckered looking, like it's been hot. But if I pull on both ends of it, it appears that the wire inside is all right. Should I replace it to be on the safe side?
Jeff
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
From: Winston-Salem NC
Hmmm, how about the ignition switch? If it went bad, could it cause these symptoms?
The more I think about the fusible link, the more I'm inclined to agree with markdtn - if the fusible link was bad, wouldn't that knock out power to everything?
Sorry guys, but electronics is like black magic to me. I don't know enough to troubleshoot the problem, but I hate to just throw money at it!
Jeff
The more I think about the fusible link, the more I'm inclined to agree with markdtn - if the fusible link was bad, wouldn't that knock out power to everything?
Sorry guys, but electronics is like black magic to me. I don't know enough to troubleshoot the problem, but I hate to just throw money at it!
Jeff
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Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,216
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
Check the easy things first. Battery--lights and small things will work with a bad battery, but not necessiarly the starter. If it hasn't been charging for awhile, it would just slowly go bad. Use a hydrometer and a volt meter. Check battery cable connections and clean/tighten. I have been fooled by bad or discharged batteries before.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 363
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From: Winston-Salem NC
Thanks for the suggestions glenkov48. The battery is brand new, although I guess even that is no guarantee that it's good. I haven't checked the grounds because I just had the body off the frame last winter and I ASSUMED (and we all know what that gets you 
) that they were clean and tight. But you're right, that should be one of the first things to check. I'll take a look at them Saturday before I go any further!
Jeff
) that they were clean and tight. But you're right, that should be one of the first things to check. I'll take a look at them Saturday before I go any further!Jeff
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
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From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
Originally Posted by jbroughton
Found the fusible link... the insulation is all wrinkled and puckered looking, like it's been hot. But if I pull on both ends of it, it appears that the wire inside is all right. Should I replace it to be on the safe side?
Jeff
Jeff
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
Originally Posted by jbroughton
... When I turn the ignition switch, nothing happens. Not even a click from the starter.
...
Car is a 350 with a gear reduction mini starter. Over the last 2 months, it has gradually begun to crank slower and slower. ...
Thanks!
Jeff
...
Car is a 350 with a gear reduction mini starter. Over the last 2 months, it has gradually begun to crank slower and slower. ...
Thanks!
Jeff
However you went on to say that it began to crank slower over the past 2 months and this would not be consistent with an ignition switch or the reverse start-switch being the problem. Ignition switch problems as well as reverse start-switch problems typically result in no power getting to the starter, but not slow cranking.
I would still test the ignition switch, by jumping the solenoid. The best way to do this is with a remote starter switch that you can get at most good auto parts stores if you don't have one.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
This is what I used to eliminate the starter as the problem on mine.
Good luck... GUSTO
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
Originally Posted by jbroughton
I just finished installing new intake manifold gaskets on my 69.....
Racer
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
From: Carlsbad CA
If the ignition wire to the starter looks anything like mine, that's your culprit. The wire you referred to as the fusible link-- if the strands of the wire are separated, then the wire isn't able to carry enough current to engage the solenoid. Replace the wire and it should turn over like it's new. You can check this by bridging two of the terminals on the solenoid with a remote starter (also known as a screwdriver). If it turn with full force, then you've confirmed your problem. Another key indicator is whether the starter turns slower if the engine is warm. Since electrical resistance increases with heat, the ignition wire (which already is putting up some huge resistance) gets to the point that it does not let enough current get to the solenoid. Replace that wire (or at least the starter end of it), and your problem should be solved. 
