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E-brake warning light problem

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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 10:57 PM
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Default E-brake warning light problem

This summer I bought my first corvette, a '79. About 3 weeks ago the E-brake warning light came on and will not go out. I noticed the light after having to use the brakes hard. I checked the fluid level and checked for leaks. No problems there. A friend who owned a '73 said he had a similar problem which was caused by the pistons in the caliper being missed align from hard braking. I checked the pistons and didn't see any problems. Any ideas?

Thanks.
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 12:24 AM
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It is not really an e-brake lamp. It lights if you either have (1)low pressure in one of your two main brake systems(front or rear) or (2)the ebrake handle is not all the way down.


Assuming it is not the handle then you have anything from a leaking caliper to a defective proportioning valve or master cyl issue. Unless you are confident and experinced with brake systems I suggest you get it checked out by a garage. Don't keep driving it until you get this resolved....it is lighting for a reason.

Last edited by Retro78; Dec 30, 2005 at 12:28 AM.
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 02:01 AM
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Don't keep on driving cause it will not get better. I had that happen about a year ago. No leakage of any kind and no low level of fluid but the master cylinder was defective. New part and no light. Don't delay.
Bill
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 12:01 PM
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Mine came on three times, the first was a faulty switch for the parking brake. The second time the master cylinder was found to be defective and was replaced. The third time was a leaking caliper brought on by the increased pressure from the new master cylinder(you should always replace all four calipers at the same time). the light switch is triggered two ways; from the parling brake switch or from the propertioning valve which is on the frame sorta below th master cylinder. I detects a loss of pressure in one side of the system or the other (front vs. back) which moves a piston and activates the dash light.
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 03:08 PM
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This is a common problem, at least for my 79. My original problem started with a leaky caliper. After replacing all 4 calipers, it reoccured about 6 months later and I ultimately traced the problem to a bad bleeder. In both cases, my light would come on. Some times it would go away if I pumped up the breaks but eventually it just stayed on. My suggestion is to bleed your breaks and if the light comes back on then you can start having fun trying to find either a fluild leak (easier to find) or somewhere allowing air to get in (PITA). Good luck.
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Old Dec 31, 2005 | 05:35 PM
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First determine if it's the e-brake or proportioning valve that triggered the light. If the light is on, pull the wire off the switch on the proportioning valve. If the light goes out, then you have a brake system problem. If it does NOT go out, then the e-brake handle/switch is the problem.
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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Default E brake light

Originally Posted by Duke94
First determine if it's the e-brake or proportioning valve that triggered the light. If the light is on, pull the wire off the switch on the proportioning valve. If the light goes out, then you have a brake system problem. If it does NOT go out, then the e-brake handle/switch is the problem.



I got the sme problem with my 69, light stays on all the time didnt know it was a idiot light for the brake system. Any way I went to pull off the wire on the proportioning valve but it wont come off. Is it srewed on or cliped on because it wont come off dont want to force it.
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by itsabigblock
I got the sme problem with my 69, light stays on all the time didnt know it was a idiot light for the brake system. Any way I went to pull off the wire on the proportioning valve but it wont come off. Is it srewed on or cliped on because it wont come off dont want to force it.
On early cars with just the warning switch valve (68 to about 75') it just pulls off. Try to twist the boot and pull much like a spark plug boot. On later Vettes with the proportioning valve, there may be a plastic shroud around the boot that latches it to the switch. In this case, the shroud needs to be squeezed to unlatch the hooks.
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