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Joe, The list that Norval just posted is what you see in the above post. Norval, thanks for posting it again. It is a great resivoire and inexpensive. Can't wait to get fluid in it an blled it to feel what the clutch feels like! Will ordinary brake fluid work?
Bernie
Joe, The list that Norval just posted is what you see in the above post. Norval, thanks for posting it again. It is a great resivoire and inexpensive. Can't wait to get fluid in it an blled it to feel what the clutch feels like! Will ordinary brake fluid work?
Bernie
I use silicon because I value my paint. Silicon will not harm paint.
I will get some silicon fluid and a brake line in the morning. I have a lot to do tomorrow besides this project but still should be very close to driving it! Will keep everyone posted on the progress! Thanks Norval!
Bernie
OK Bernie, I'm trying to catch up with you. While I got you online here lets go over the drive line. The ford yoke is a solid yoke, meaning no straps or girdles to attach the universal. So with yoke and the drive shaft attached together, how difficult is it to put the drive line in? It appears to me that the frame section in front of the differential will make it next to impossible to get the driveline in. I'm sure that you can get it in or you, Norval or Doug would have mentioned something.
Bernie/Norval...
Thanks for the dimensions. In one of Carguy's threads someone had a link to an online machine shop place where you download there cad software and design your part, submit it and they machine it for you. So I sat here for the last few hours carefully entering all of Norval's measurments... It looked awesome.... until I hit the "price" button. They wanted 320 bucks for it!!! I'm not sure what the price is on a piece of 1/2 inch alluminum, but I wouldnt think it would be that much, so is the machining that expensive????
OK Bernie, I'm trying to catch up with you. While I got you online here lets go over the drive line. The ford yoke is a solid yoke, meaning no straps or girdles to attach the universal. So with yoke and the drive shaft attached together, how difficult is it to put the drive line in? It appears to me that the frame section in front of the differential will make it next to impossible to get the driveline in. I'm sure that you can get it in or you, Norval or Doug would have mentioned something.
Scott..
It is not a problem at all. Bolt up the back of the drive shaft then tap in the front caps(or use a C clamp to press in). To make life easy I strongly recomend using a flapper wheel or dremel to islightly increase the size of the yoke cap holes so that the caps go in/out with little effort. Mine assemble/disassemble with only light taps. They are retained in the yoke with the standard U joint C clips.
Dan,
The chevy T5 should work great! It is for a 305 chevy engine and should bolt right up without an adapter. Especially if you are using the Camaro bellhousing. I'm glad you were able to save so much money!
I not only received help; strong friendships have developed that make this so much more meaningful for me. Names like; Norval, Carguy4sure, Gordonm Danspeed1, Eddie70, Evaluator (sp), Dgaina, Jim Shea and all the others that share their expertise, insite, triumphs, and even failures so that the rest of us can avoid the pitfalls and the trial and error to make our projects easier.
Bernie
Hey,
Thanks for the help,... without these posts I would never have taken initiative to start this project. Hopefully, I will be able to get a good chunk of the project done coming up soon. With work and all I've been so busy lately.
Thanks to "You Pull It" I can get the Chevy T5 for $100. It may need a rebuild but I'm pretty confident thats something I can get it done cheaply enough.
Thanks again for the help, and if theres anything I can help with, just PM me,... or leave a post.
Bernie/Norval...
Thanks for the dimensions. In one of Carguy's threads someone had a link to an online machine shop place where you download there cad software and design your part, submit it and they machine it for you. So I sat here for the last few hours carefully entering all of Norval's measurments... It looked awesome.... until I hit the "price" button. They wanted 320 bucks for it!!! I'm not sure what the price is on a piece of 1/2 inch alluminum, but I wouldnt think it would be that much, so is the machining that expensive????
I never pay for machine shop services so I don't know the price but to bore the hole takes 15 minutes maximum and then it is simpley drilling 4 holes. It can't be that expensive. Go to a local machine shop. Start with a ? I forget but Bernie would know. 11 inch by 10 inch or something like that 1/2 inch thick aluminum.
I feel bad that I don't make up a number of these since it doesn't take long but once they leave my shop I loose control of quality control on the installation and my reputation could suffer and it just isn't worth it to me.
The aluminum adapter is 1/2 inch thick. I got a piece twelve inches square and had plenty to work with. We have a machine shop where I work and a friend milled the holes for me one morning. I marked, drilled and tapped the other holes later at home. The aluminum and the machine work should not cost that much. Like Norval says, go to a local machine shop and have them quote you.
The ford yoke bores need to be relieved a little to allow you to hand press the caps into the bores. I used a hand drill with a small flapper wheel (the flappers are sand paper) and removed small amounts from each bore until the caps could be pressed in using hard hand pressure. Slide the drive shaft from the front into the tunnel to the differential and hook that end up first. Then raise the shaft into position behind the yoke and install very carefully. If the caps will not go in far enough to install the clips, a needle bearing has fallen across the cap; just remove and straighten the needle bearings and re-install.
Sorry I missed these posts last night.
These are all instructions I received from Norval and Doug and they are 100% correct!
Bernie
Scott, Dan, Doug, Norval,
I just got the hydraulic lines hooked up from the resevoire to the master cylinder and used a 30 inch high pressure steel line with a curl in it to connect the master to the slave cylinder. I haven't gotten it to pump up yet. I'm going to let it sit overnight and see if gravity will help; it not I will put a little pressure on the system to force fluid thru. I still need to install the steering column and hook up the reverse connectors for the reverse lights. I measured and it seems that a one inch wide spacer will move my shifter over to the center line and 1/2 an inch back will put the shifter where it needs to be. I pulled the shifter mechanism out and partially filled it with transmission fluid. I will pull the fill plug tomorrow and finish filling the tranny. If I can get the hydraluics bled and working I will be driving it by next weekend!
Bernie
I feel bad that I don't make up a number of these since it doesn't take long but once they leave my shop I loose control of quality control on the installation and my reputation could suffer and it just isn't worth it to me.
Your reputation could suffer? I think if the install is messed up, it has nothing to do with you at that point.
AGV1,
I agree that Norval's reputation is beyond reproach, but I can understand how he feels too! His deminisions are exact so the only thing that could go wrong is an error on someone else's part. The only other critical thing to do is center the adapter to the engine. But as long as Norval has given us exact measurements we should be able to find a reputable machine shop to make this adapter and not try to rip our heads off in the process. I have an adapter I made that doesn't take into account the tranny tilts to the left approx 18 degrees. It has the tranny sitting vertical. This means that you would have to make an angled bracket to hold the rear support. I made another adapter instead. So things can go wrong and I can understand Norval not wanting to have that on his shoulders; although it would not be his fault.
Bernie
Just wondering what they have out there in the direction of T5 Rebuild Kits for GM World Class T5's. Looked on Summit Racing and didn't see much for this trans. What are you guys who are rebuilding these doing to strengthen them up,... ?
Dan do a search on T5 transmissions. Also G Force has a kit that will take them to the 600 torque range. If you don't find anything let me know.
Bernie
Here is a picture of the steel brake line I used to connect the mastewr to the slave cylinder. It is a 3/16ths line 30 inches long. I used a quart paint cat to form the circle.
I got the master bled this evening but I think I need more fork travel. I'll pump and bleed some more to see if that helps; if not, I will have to adjust the clutch linkage some. I noticed the rear main crankshaft seal leaking so I will drop the pan and replace the seals. I found the transmission yoke hitting the e-brake cable so I will remove the driveshaft and install something to hold the cable up away from the yoke. Just small stuff but things that need to be taken care of while the car is in the air.
Bernie
Hey Bernie, I was looking at my auto before removing it. It sat quit a ways off center in the tunnel. This allows the ebrake cable to run and not interfere with the drive shaft. I got a picture of the before if you need it.
As for your clutch, when I depress my clutch pedal it bottoms out just before hitting the carpet. Make sure your master cylinder is bottoming out and giving the slave full travel.