6 link Lower Bracket Idea
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 10
From: Big Pine Key FL
6 link Lower Bracket Idea
I just posted a pic under my Corvette photos of the conceptual view of my 6 link lower bracket. I have completed the upper braket drawing as well. It should be approved tomorrow morning.
The drawing is not to scale and no exact measurements are implied it was a quick an dirty 10 minute affair to get started. The thinking here is to get an idea of the machining/plasma cutting/bending/welding operations needed to complete the assembly.
The upper bracket is similar in construction. I'll likely thread the bushing on the front (lower) and back (upper) side to keep from having a nut holding the strut rod in.
Installation will require the removal of the Differential crossmember. Not that it cant be done without, I'm just gonna beef up the crossmember.
thoughts/opinions/feedback?
The drawing is not to scale and no exact measurements are implied it was a quick an dirty 10 minute affair to get started. The thinking here is to get an idea of the machining/plasma cutting/bending/welding operations needed to complete the assembly.
The upper bracket is similar in construction. I'll likely thread the bushing on the front (lower) and back (upper) side to keep from having a nut holding the strut rod in.
Installation will require the removal of the Differential crossmember. Not that it cant be done without, I'm just gonna beef up the crossmember.
thoughts/opinions/feedback?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 10
From: Big Pine Key FL
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
You are making it more complicated. Just take the stock bracket and add extensions down.
Forget the upper bracket and just weld studs in the proper location directly to the crossmember.
If you go the bracket route and I went that route twice before I relized the brakcet bolts to the rearend and the rearend bolts to the crossmember. Why not just weld 2 studs directly to the crossmember???
Forget the upper bracket and just weld studs in the proper location directly to the crossmember.
If you go the bracket route and I went that route twice before I relized the brakcet bolts to the rearend and the rearend bolts to the crossmember. Why not just weld 2 studs directly to the crossmember???
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
This is the stock crossmember with a 1 ½ inch ears welded on to drop the inner mount
This is a overall shot showing the inner stud welded to the crossmember
This is another shot of the upper strut and inner stud
The length of this arm is critical and is either 13 ½ or 14 ½ inches long. I have it written down at work.
The inner mount location in alignment with the lower inner mount, the universal and the upper mount is critical
This is a far better easier way to do the same thing you are doing with a bolt on bracket.
This is a overall shot showing the inner stud welded to the crossmember
This is another shot of the upper strut and inner stud
The length of this arm is critical and is either 13 ½ or 14 ½ inches long. I have it written down at work.
The inner mount location in alignment with the lower inner mount, the universal and the upper mount is critical
This is a far better easier way to do the same thing you are doing with a bolt on bracket.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
Why make it so complex when it really is a pretty simple bracket?
Here's my lower bracket. The top one is much harder to do on 80-82...as in impossbile, you'll need a subframe for them..79 and earlier sure makes life easier there.
Here's my lower bracket. The top one is much harder to do on 80-82...as in impossbile, you'll need a subframe for them..79 and earlier sure makes life easier there.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
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Originally Posted by 84rzv500r
I like that idea better than the others if that would be made out of billet aluminum.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 10
From: Big Pine Key FL
I like Norval's idea for the top!! I was gonna weld the top on anyway, |I can eliminate the bracket on top and just use the post. That saves some work.
I'm gonna use my bracket on the bottom. It will be very simple on our CNC plasma cutter to cut the top and bottom front and back from 0.125 wall tube. drop the spools in and a bit of welding to button it all up. Then a quick trip to the mill to finish.
This forurm is Great !!
I'm gonna use my bracket on the bottom. It will be very simple on our CNC plasma cutter to cut the top and bottom front and back from 0.125 wall tube. drop the spools in and a bit of welding to button it all up. Then a quick trip to the mill to finish.
This forurm is Great !!
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
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that's because it's a later model diff and the plate is originally loctaed backwards and the strut rods have an angle in them, I didn't want my rod ends to be angled but straight so I had to offset the mounting plane further forward....on the <79 it's much easier, just a flat bracket like norvals
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Jan 10, 2006 at 09:23 AM.