U-Joint bolt socket type question - 82
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Mason MI 82-93-04CE
U-Joint bolt socket type question - 82
Well, I'm finally getting around to looking into the rear-end noise and have run into an early hitch. I am trying to remove the half-shafts on this 82 and the darn bolts won't budge. I got one loose but the other's are too tight and I almost ruined one of the bolt heads. This is odd. On some 80 (auto) shafts I have laying around they have 1/4 inch 12 point bolt heads. My 82 has 6 "concave" flats on the 5/16 heads for the half-shafts, and 6 "flat" flats on the driveshaft's u-joints 5/16 bolt heads. Hope that makes sense. Is there another socket besides a regular 6 or 12 point for these "concave" type bolt heads? By the way, the 12 point sockets don't seat on these heads. I'm really afraid to go too far and end up breaking the bolts or ruining the bolt heads. I could end up stranded at home 
These cap bolts are well soaked with grease and oil and not rusted up. I didn't want to heat them and ruin the joints. Any suggestions so I can start analyzing wheel bearing, carrier bearings, pinion bearings, u-joints - you know the routine - prior to pulling the rear case out as a last resort? Thanks for any help....Craig
These cap bolts are well soaked with grease and oil and not rusted up. I didn't want to heat them and ruin the joints. Any suggestions so I can start analyzing wheel bearing, carrier bearings, pinion bearings, u-joints - you know the routine - prior to pulling the rear case out as a last resort? Thanks for any help....Craig
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I think the '82's were like my old Yellow '80 with a four speed. Your car(and my old '80) I believe were the "Torx" headbolt design. Size was "E-10". 
In a way, kinda looked like a "starhead" bolt. I found these "Torx" sockets available at Sears through Craftsmen tools. Best thing to do to prevent breakage is heat up the receiving end where the threads are into almost cherry red. They usually come apart with next to no effort once they are heated like this.
In a way, kinda looked like a "starhead" bolt. I found these "Torx" sockets available at Sears through Craftsmen tools. Best thing to do to prevent breakage is heat up the receiving end where the threads are into almost cherry red. They usually come apart with next to no effort once they are heated like this.
Last edited by Paul Borowski; Jan 8, 2006 at 05:40 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 255
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From: Mason MI 82-93-04CE
Originally Posted by Paul Borowski
I think the '82's were like my old Yellow '80 with a four speed. Your car(and my old '80) I believe were the "Torx" headbolt design. Size was "E-10". In a way, kinda looked like a "starhead" bolt. I found these "Torx" sockets available at Sears through Craftsmen tools. Best thing to do to prevent breakage is heat up the receiving end where the threads are into almost cherry red. They usually come apart with next to no effort once they are heated like this.
In a way, kinda looked like a "starhead" bolt. I found these "Torx" sockets available at Sears through Craftsmen tools. Best thing to do to prevent breakage is heat up the receiving end where the threads are into almost cherry red. They usually come apart with next to no effort once they are heated like this. 
Torx head. I should have realized that. I'll be going to Sears tomorrow. I must be getting soft in the head to not realize that they weren't regular socket heads. I will likely be able to salvage the "slightly rounded" one with the proper socket.Wouldn't it be nice if things were standardized. This stuff is as bad as plumbing
Those are hardened bolts, so I'll try once again with the proper socket and no heat. If gentle persuasion doesn't do it, then we'll go the heat route. I don't want to fry the new Spicers, but I have to get things apart to localize the "chipped tooth sound" (or bad "new" wheel bearing, or something touching, or bad "new" u-joint, etc.) on deceleration - that comes from everywhere tailshaft and back. Making me nuts.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Mason MI 82-93-04CE
Yup. E10 it was. Didn't need heat (would have like to have more room, tho). Every one of them broke loose without a problem and the halfshafts were nudged out without taking the strut rods out of adjustment. Now I can run the engine in gear and listen to the differential without all the other stuff going around. I noticed my axle yokes have almost insignificant outward play and no other slop in anything else back there. Whew. I'll likely drop the diff anyway because I have a bit of whine I'd like to take care of. I noticed my diff oil looked a bit grey, so I have wear or worse somewhere. Probably my clunking sound related to a pulled or chipped tooth. We'll see. Thanks again.
