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The right engine for a '73 Stingray

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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 08:07 PM
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Default The right engine for a '73 Stingray

Hello to everyone.

I am new to this site and new to the world of Corvettes, having been a Harley man for many years. As a disabled vet, my troubles have caused me to give up the world of two-wheels an opt for four.

Initially, I had a '74, with a 500-600 hp crate engine. That one was destroyed just recently when something failed while driving home from the martial art club. As the car came to a stop in a bad section of highway, it was subsequently hit by a kid driving a Mitsubishi, who was doing 85 mph or more, and had dropped his lighter on the floor of his car. So, the 74, which was just starting to show some promise - with a fresh transmission and tuning of he motor - was totally destroyed.

That would have been the end of it, except the three kids were borrowing the car - and it had no insurance anyway. So, I have another Stingray now. However, the car needs some work before it is totally road-worthy. Those who owned it lied to me about a fair portion of the details. Its TH-400 transmission was failing, and it would seem it has some oil pressure woes - too much space around the rings.

This brings me to the following questions which I leave to your combined experience to provide me with guidance.

First, one of the lies I was handed was that the motor had only been in the car for two years - the producers of this 350 engine have been out of business for nine years. Other indicators suggest that the car may have been sitting in the previous owners garage for some time - perhaps more than three to five years.

It looked to be in remarkable shape - but the tranny and engine thing suggest serious trouble. While I am getting the tranny sorted out now, it will be some time before I can afford to repair or replace the motor - unless I land a good job which I have recently applied for.

So here's the crux of the question - Assuming I can get the car to a reasonable safety level by addressing the bad power steering ram and the transmission woes - will ten psi on the oil pressure actually be enough to operate the car until I can address that problem? Also, if I get the new job, I will have enough money in about four months to afford any of the new crate engines available now. I have looked at each of these, and would like to know what would be the easiest, safest and most efficient engine I could install? I have read threads on this forum referencing the 454 and the 502 engines - and I would like something as powerful as what was in the 74. I have also noted a new engine - a 572? Assuming this pans out the way I want, what should I put in the car - and if I put in a massive motor - what would be the combination of beefed-up suspension parts I would need - and what transmission would pair well?

I am a lot of things - but I am no 4-wheel mechanic. Much of this is foreign to me. And since I'm a disabled vet, working on the car myself is not so easy. I have the car at a reputable shop now - but I want a game-plan before I get the razzle-dazzle treatment from the mechanics there. I would like to at least understand a little of what I am talking about. Can you help me with this?

-Dave
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 12:33 AM
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A bad power steering ram? Those are not at too expensive. I purchased a power steering ram from Muskegon Brakes this past march along with a new PS pump and pulley (havent installed them yet on my vehicle. You also want to check your PS hoses, pump,valve, and steering box. I would stick with the TH-400 (just my personal preference) as chevy THM 400 trannys are becoming rare units).

Your engine: You mentioned you had a 600hp motor. was it a SB or BB engine? You can put either engine between those sexy curves. If you like brute power and large amounts of torque, and dont mind suffering from low gas mileage BB is the answer. If you like an engine capable of respectable HP and torque SB is the way to go (383 ci). I'm not sure as what type of suspension parts you would need but your stock rear end should be able to handle up to 300-400hp. The guys here are a great group of people who can impart a lot of knowledge and experience. Hope this helps you a little and welcome to the forum

Last edited by Oldguard 7; Jan 17, 2006 at 12:36 AM.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 02:34 AM
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Default thanx

Thanx for that. I will look forward to communicating here. The car seems a bit complicated compared to what I was used to - but I'm slowly getting a little bit of a bead on things.

-Dave
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 11:14 PM
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Default Looking at crate engines

What about this 572 engine I have been seeing. Has anyone tried to wedge this into a 70s model Stingray? I assume the back end and frame would have to be reinforced somehow. I would also guess you'd need heavier springs, etc on the front end to support the weight?

Is this even possible? What would need to be changed to make this work?

-Dave
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 11:30 PM
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Couple suggestions:

1. If the TH400 is in bad shape, get it repaired at a qualified shop...cost maybe in the 500-700 dollar range.

2. 10 # of oil pressure is not much....the engine bearings are about to go south. Suggest an inexpensive crate, in the form of 300 HP for about 1500.00. When you get financialy stable, then you can add a cam, heads, and all the other good stuff, but for now, the base crate will get you going and the vette will run and be trouble free.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Blackstarfish
What about this 572 engine I have been seeing. Has anyone tried to wedge this into a 70s model Stingray? I assume the back end and frame would have to be reinforced somehow. I would also guess you'd need heavier springs, etc on the front end to support the weight?

Is this even possible? What would need to be changed to make this work?

-Dave
That's big bucks...sure it fits, but there are some issues to deal with...hood and an electric fuel pump. Many have the carbed 502's in their C3's, me included.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 11:50 PM
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I wouldn't drive it with 10 PSI oil pressure. OK for idle but you could blow it up when you jump on it. As the car has a 350 in it now, why not build a "NICE" 350 and put a supercharger on it? Seems to me it's a reasonable alternative to big block.

And my respect and gratitude to you for your service to us all.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 12:34 AM
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you know i would want to check that 10 psi out at with a real pressure gauge to confirm thats the corect pressure and not a bad sending unit or gauge....then if its really 10 you have a problem.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 01:37 AM
  #9  
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Default psi and other suff

Yeah, I know the psi is a real thing - and a real bad thing too. I have a very heavy job lined up which will pull in about 5k a month. Seems I still have some marketable skills. So, if it pans out, I want to really deck this car out with the right stuff. Since I have other money, the paycheck will be going directly into the Vette until everything is done.

So, I'm trying to get a game-plan that I can present to the shop the car is currently being overhauled in. They do exclusively Corvettes, so it's in the right place - I just want to know a little bit about what would be best for this car. I had a car with a 500+ horsepower engine on board. It was a scream, until it got rammed by some kids doing about 90 in an eclipse. They ended up underneath the Vette, and I was sitting in an accordion.

So I guess I'm looking at best case scenario - I get the job, can do the job for at least five or six months - and therfore can do almost anything as far as the engine and suspension.

What would you folks recommend? Give me a list.

And thank you to the individual who said thank you to me ref. the veteran thing. I was in Somalia. That was my last gig. I was there for seven months - from the beginning to the end of the operation. It was an honor to be able to serve you, and even with all the water under the bridge - I wouldn't trade a second of it. We did make a difference.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 01:56 AM
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Default oil pressure

If this car has been sitting for five to nine years - and the oil is basically as thin as water - would that account for a good oil pressure to start - for about 15 minutes - then a drop to about 10 psi?

Would putting in a heavy-weight oil - 40 or 50 weight increase the pressure to safe levels?

Also would a temporary fix be to put a high-volume oil pump in for the time being. Isn't the issue volume, not pressure?

I just need the thing to carry me a few miles back and forth to the new job for about two to three months. Then it can go in for a complete replacement of the engine.

I hate when people lie to you when selling something as vital as a car or bike (basically your transportation). Makes me sick to think about it.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 02:01 AM
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The transmission has been taken apart, repaired - new torque converter, etc. It is squared away.

On the engine thing, I just bought the car, and put it in the shop immediately. But I think it was sitting for years. The oil was like water. Would putting in heavier oil - 40 or 50 weight possibly raise the pressure to a safe level temporarily? Or what about a higher volume oil pump? It gives no indications that it is burning oil. It is puzzling to me.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 07:21 AM
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put in some 50W racing oil. That should increase the pressure.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 07:22 AM
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For what it's worth I just got through a several week process of choosing a replacement engine for my 73 BB. I looked at the 572 (too much $) Then turned to the ZZ502 ($$ but getting better) I then decided to "build my own" 454. I am building a roller 454 with aluminum heads that according to Edelbrock tech line should be producing around 550 HP. I should be in this engine for several K less than the 502. But, I had access to a 454 block already bored and rotating assembly balanced. Weigh the 502 vs the 454 $/HP. IMHO go with a BB. Remember the weight difference in the BB vs SB springs/front end needs replaced.
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