Brake rotor change help
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 206
From: Loveland, CO
Brake rotor change help
I have ordered stock rotors for my '66 project and have a question regarding the front rotors. I have drilled out rivets on the rears before and just used the wheel nuts to hold the system together. Is the procedure the same for the fronts? I have never done fronts before, but am hoping it is the same: drill out the rotors and use the lug nuts. Am I correct in my assumptions?
I plan to check runout once installed.
Thanks, Ralph
PS: after posting this thread I did a search and found the answer (same as rear). Should be more proactive. If anybody has any additional suggestions, they would be welcome.
I plan to check runout once installed.
Thanks, Ralph
PS: after posting this thread I did a search and found the answer (same as rear). Should be more proactive. If anybody has any additional suggestions, they would be welcome.
Last edited by rponfick; Jan 20, 2006 at 06:23 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
Originally Posted by rponfick
I have ordered stock rotors for my '66 project and have a question regarding the front rotors. I have drilled out rivets on the rears before and just used the wheel nuts to hold the system together. Is the procedure the same for the fronts? I have never done fronts before, but am hoping it is the same: drill out the rotors and use the lug nuts. Am I correct in my assumptions?
I plan to check runout once installed.
Thanks, Ralph
I plan to check runout once installed.
Thanks, Ralph
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,989
From: Connecticut, USA
Center punch, step drill, drill 5/16" bit just past the rivet head and use a cold chisel across the face of the rivet to cut it in 1/2 then drive out the body. tap the hole 3/8-24 and countersink the rotor to bolt it on and dial in the runout.
Gary
Gary
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,989
From: Connecticut, USA
Glad to help Ralph, how's my viking friend been-LOL
Go to www.Mcmaster.com and you'll find everything you need. in fact since I like you the part number is 91253A351 3/8-24 x 5/8 steel flat heads. You'll need a 3/8-24 tap and a countersink. This iron is very easy to machine, I do it in a drill press but a hand drill would work too.
Don't use a tap size drill in the rivet hole,it's just a little bigger then the drill anyway so it should be a nice job. You can do this with the rears too, the spindle doesn't have to be removed for this job.
I just finished up a T arm and I dialed it in to .002" with some SS shim stock. This was with new rotors and old spindles. The spindles were not the cause of the runout the rotors were. With .002 endplay and .002 runout the stock lip seals in the calipers will work great.
Good luck and let me know how you make out with it.
Go to www.Mcmaster.com and you'll find everything you need. in fact since I like you the part number is 91253A351 3/8-24 x 5/8 steel flat heads. You'll need a 3/8-24 tap and a countersink. This iron is very easy to machine, I do it in a drill press but a hand drill would work too.
Don't use a tap size drill in the rivet hole,it's just a little bigger then the drill anyway so it should be a nice job. You can do this with the rears too, the spindle doesn't have to be removed for this job.
I just finished up a T arm and I dialed it in to .002" with some SS shim stock. This was with new rotors and old spindles. The spindles were not the cause of the runout the rotors were. With .002 endplay and .002 runout the stock lip seals in the calipers will work great.
Good luck and let me know how you make out with it.
