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Yea so i discovered that i have a valve tick and one was loose. So today i opened my valve cover and tightened down the one all the way in the back since that's the one that seemed to be loose(driver side). Anyways, i threw everything back on and turned her over and immediately my warm-up idle ran to 2500 RPMs where she's usually at 14-1600... and even after i feathered the throttle it stayed around 1400 RPMs.. any ideas as to where i screwed up?
oh crap... i lied.. i tightened down a rocker.. anyone know where i can find a good tutorial online on how to tighten loosened valves? or can anyone head me in the right direction
Why would you think a valve was loose? If the spring hasn't failed & the locks are doing their job, then the valve can't be loose. Now either you have a rocker nut that is backing off or a lifter that is failing. There is a specfic procedure for tightening rockers on hyd lifters, you just can't crank them down tight. You could witness mark the rocker nut & see if it is indeed loosening, otherwise I'd say you've got a bad lifter.
bad lifter you say? Hm... i dunno. It probably wasn't a very good idea for me to attempt this in the first place... There was a bad tinging at idle and acceleration but not while holding speeds.
I don't remember the procedure right off the top of my head, but any decent repair manual should list it. It's not a difficult procedure. It might be wise to perform the procedure on all the rockers, at least on that bank & see where they're at. It'll be a good place to start.
In order to adjust the preload, the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or "Heel" of the lobe.
At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place.
You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder that you are going to set the preload on.
2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)
3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)
4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
i adjust both of them at once when they are at TDC of the compression stoke and i use the Distributor rotor cap to point me to the cylinder, following the firing order. and i rotate the crank a quarter turn to proceed to the next cylinder
Yea so i discovered that i have a valve tick and one was loose. So today i opened my valve cover and tightened down the one all the way in the back since that's the one that seemed to be loose(driver side). Anyways, i threw everything back on and turned her over and immediately my warm-up idle ran to 2500 RPMs where she's usually at 14-1600... and even after i feathered the throttle it stayed around 1400 RPMs.. any ideas as to where i screwed up?
Hold it, hold it!!! We're explaining to him how to do the whole engine? He only over tightened "one" rocker...back it off until it taps slightly and then 1/4 turn down, and then leave it alone...don't ya think?
I would be concerned about the lifter. Remove the rocker arm and get yourself a lifter puller ($10 at parts store)and check out the bottom of the lifter for wear.