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Well I still can’t get it to run cold? First it is now difficult to start and when it does it barley idles like it stalls briefly then catches. Also it won’t take the gas stumbles bad. Then when it warms up it is fine?
Remember the temp out side is a cool 90 this time of year, and I never have used a choke to start.
I suggested this last go around...I stand by my opinion...
That is a problem the car is an 81 computer distrubitor. Today I have done a few things including checking the plugs. The plugs look fine but I now beleve the problem is carboration as it does run fine when warm and I beleve if the current problem was the distributor it would be all the time cold and hot. Unfortunatly I cant check to see if I fixed anything till the morning when it is cold. It is now 7:35PM so I will let everone know tomorrow.
Thanks guys
Dean
Last edited by Bangkok Dean; Jan 25, 2006 at 07:44 AM.
Hi Dean,
You've reported a ton of problems over the last couple weeks...I know when my toys don't work, I get very edgy....so, let me ask you...do you think the present problem relates to that distributor in any way??? I mean, did the crappy start-up just appear one morning? Have we adjusted the carbs at all??? My Vette used to be a bear to start when I first got it, but the chokes weren't hooked up...I'm running dual quad Edelbrocks...now it's an easy start..but I don't live in Bangkok either, today is a warm morning here...25 degrees F...almost freezing...
So, as I said, even though I'm running some after-market gear, I still get nervous when I hear people having problems with the A/M stuff installed on their cars...you are saying you don't have the stock HEI anymore?? My theory is, if you put it (stock HEI) back in on a temporary basis, and the car runs like it's brand new...well, the Summit has problems, I would say...I know it's a pain in the a$$, but it might be worth it to eliminate a potentially problematic equipment...with me being in the technical end of the world, elimination, one by one, is almost a necessity...just trying to help get ya back on the road running right...
Remember the temp out side is a cool 90 this time of year, and I never have used a choke to start.
You're just lucky if you can start an engine when it is 90 without a choke. In the summer, it's often well over 100 here and you still need to use a choke on a "cold" engine. 90 degrees is "cold" when compared to 400-800 degree temperatures elsewhere in the engine.
At present I have only around 1,000 miles on my engine and have had several problems with my summit distributor. After 800 miles the module went out and at 900 miles I have now replaced two condensers in the distributor. The engine not shutting off I think is 1 low octane gas + high idle 900 rpm.
I have now added some STP octane buster and leave the AC on when turning off the engine.
Now the engine runs like crap when cold, and it won’t take the gas? Before the distributor started giving me problems it started good with out using the choke. Now it is difficult to start with or with out the choke.
When it warms up it runs ok and starts good.
Everything was replaced new 1,000 miles ago to no computer vacuum advance Summit distributor. The original I still have but it does not have the Vacuum advance.
1) My car (auto) idles about 1200 and shuts off fine, although I use 93 octane..even at 87 octane, it should not deisel...
2) Run-on or deiseling, from my experiences, is due to a timing problem, not a gas problem with octane, which brings us back to the distributor...again
3) Pardon my ignorance, what is Octane Buster...it adds octane? If so, is that a reason it runs like crap...you said it ran OK until you added this stuff...
And lastly) With you popping distributor condensers every 800 miles, it is clear most of your problems are distributor related....please swap back to the stock as a test
If your computer is still connected. Its never going to run right without the proper parts to signal the computer. Your either using a computer or not using one...there is no 1/2 and 1/2.Its sounds like its not getting any information on start up. What else have you disconnected?
Everything was replaced new 1,000 miles ago to no computer vacuum advance Summit distributor. The original I still have but it does not have the Vacuum advance.
forgive me for stepping in the middle of this conversation. i didn't catch if the carb was replaced also. did you post a thread with all the details?
when you say you've popped a couple condensors in the distributor already, are you talking about the modules? if so, did you put grease under them? are you sure the coil is right? there is a difference in the red/yellow wire coils and the red/white wire coils.
Dean, I have always admired your car in these posts. Its a nice clean ride. How fresh is your fuel? If it is quite old, it may be causing some problems. Another thought is that maybe the last batch of fuel was bad, but would have caused the car to run bad soon after the last fill up.
at 90 degrees seems like a choke is useless. I live in the se united states and since bubba saw fit to do away with the choke I dont have one on my 69 car will run ok with out the choke. don't rememer what model you have (senior moment) but if you have an adjusitbile carb you might want to richen it up a bit set it up with highest vacuum. our temps run here from below freezing to approximately 100.
Well I am now thinking it is the carburetor Edelbrock 600 cfm. At it is only bad when it is cold. I will take it apart when I can to see if the floats are stuck causing it to flood out when cold. Causing the up and down cold idle.
For those that asked there is no computer or anything left of the stock setup. It was running fine till the two condensers went out then the problems started
1) My car (auto) idles about 1200 and shuts off fine, although I use 93 octane..even at 87 octane, it should not deisel...
2) Run-on or deiseling, from my experiences, is due to a timing problem, not a gas problem with octane, which brings us back to the distributor...again
3) Pardon my ignorance, what is Octane Booster...it adds octane? If so, is that a reason it runs like crap...you said it ran OK until you added this stuff...
And lastly) With you popping distributor condensers every 800 miles, it is clear most of your problems are distributor related....please swap back to the stock as a test
Thanks Bill for the suggestions you have made to problems I am having. First I don’t have the original distributor and even if I did it was a computer controlled distributor.
Here in Thailand there aren’t any parts like a distributor to buy so I would have to order one from the USA. You mentioned moisture this I have checked there is no moisture in the distributor cap. When I get time I will check the timing again but don’t see how that could change but it is something easy to check. You mentioned that timing could cause the condenser to go out and cause bigger engine problems?? I have not driven the car more that 5 miles since the problem with the condensers. I can drive the car if I try to keep it running till it warms up then it runs good, till it cools down.
Some have suggested that my problems could be in the carb? Boy I wish that was it but as I said it runs fine when it get warm. Maybe it is flooding out and that is why it is really difficult to start also.
But maybe the timing is really the problem too far advanced then when it warms up it is OK????
I will try to find time to work on it this weekend.