jerryp58

Ever since I replaced my ignition switch (quite some time ago :bb ), the ignition alarm will go off when I open the door whether the key is in the ignition or not.

What did I do wrong? If there's not easy fix, I'll probably pull the thing apart and hopefully, put it back together right this time.

Jim Shea

I think this describes your problem.
Buzzer continues to operate with key removed, but stops when driver's door is closed:
There are three possibilities:
1. Chips, foreign material in lock cylinder bore.
2. Sticky lock cylinder actuator tip.
3. Damaged buzzer switch.

None of the above problems have anything to do with your ignition switch.

You can try "flushing" your lock cylinder with WD-40 or some other cleaner. This could clean out chips and possibly fix a sticky actuator tip.

The third possibility will require you to disassemble the steering column so that you can check the buzzer switch. I really isn't all that bad of a job.

Go to Terry Ruby's websight: http://www.bokonon.net/corvettefaq/ and look under Suspension and Steering. There is a paper on Buzzer Switch Diagnosis. There are two papers (with pictures) on disassembling the standard (non-adjustable) steering column or the T&T steering column.

If you have an early (1969 through 1976) T&T steering column you might have a problem in finding a new buzzer switch. You may need to obtain the paper on Where to Get Replacement Steering Column Parts also at Terry's websight.

jerryp58

How nasty :U does "flushing with WD40" get?

Jerry

Jim Shea

It depends what's in the lock cylinder. :(

dath

Hmmm... I always avoid putting things like WD40 in locks. I'd say take it apart, but what do I know? :rolleyes:

-dath

Gary79

if you use WD-40 it washes all the graphite out of the lock,so you'll have to try to get some back in there for the lock to work correctly in the long run,just MHO, of course.

Jim Shea

The guys are correct above. I just checked with the engineers at Delphi Saginaw. DO NOT use WD-40 in the lock cylinder. It will dry out the metal parts and can craze the plastic parts in the lock cylinder.

Saginaw recommends using a small quantity of MOBIL 1 to lubricate the lock. Use a syringe or coat your key to get the lubricant into the moving parts.

Sorry about the bad info.

Chuck Gongloff

I had a similar problem with my 69 when I bought it. Turned out to be the little plastic/brass "2 prong" switch in the steering column. When the key is pushed in the lock cylinder, a nylon "tang" is pushed out...contacts this switch and makes the "buzz". The switches for regular columns are available from most of the suppliers. I recall that the switches for T and T columns are very tough to find. Chuck

Steve Grodin

I don't think the T&T column switches are available anymore. I couldn't locate one for my '74 a couple of years ago. I just removed the switch.

jerryp58

Thanks for the replies. I kind of doubt that there's too much "grit" in there, but I think I'll try the Mobil 1 first. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll open the column up again and see if anything is obviously broken. Knowing me, I probably broke something when I "fixed" the ignition switch :rolleyes:

Chuck Gongloff

If/when you remove the steering wheel, hub, etc, you'll find that little "switch". It's clear plastic...about 3/4 inch long..with 2 brass contacts..about 1 inch long each. It breaks easily. It's a simple push in/pull out removal. I seem to remember reading/hearing somewhere that a company called something like "Corvette Steering Service" ??? has switches for T and T's. The non T and T swiches are available just about everywhere for a few dollars. Chuck

GaryS

Jerryp58, these are the EXACT symptoms my 72 had when I bought it last year: open the door and the key buzzer went off whether the key was in it or not. I posted that question here and Jim Shea was kind enough to post the diagnostic procedure from the Saginaw Steering Division. These are the folks that built these steering columns, btw. I figured I had nothing to lose so I tried it. To avoid all the details, I had lots of very fine dust and dirt in my lock cylinder. Nothing else was wrong. I had the cylinder out and the local locksmith looked at it and said that the small plastic plunger was sticking. I cleaned the whole thing and re-installed it.

For those looking for the small plastic switch if you have the non tilt/tele column the switch is still available from GM. Us tilt/tele folks are in for a rude surprise since you have to go on the used market for these. This switch is nothing more than a clear plastic case with two thin copper strips in it. When you insert the key the two copper strips come into contact with each other and the buzzer goes off. BTW, these swithces are available from Corvette Steering Service although they are not cheap.

Gary

Jim Shea

The T&T key buzzer switch for the 1969 thru 1976 steering column is very hard to find. If you go to Terry Rudy's websight: http://www.bokonon.net/corvettefaq/ and go to Suspension and Steering, you will find a topic on Where to Get Steering Column Parts. It may give you some tips as to what other GM steering columns have the same T&T parts as the Corvette column.

You should also look under Key Buzzer Diagnosis. The key buzzer switch is so simple you may be able to fix your original switch. Also the diagnostics will help you isolate exactly where the problem is.