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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 04:15 PM
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Default HD assembled diff

hi everybody, who are the top guys (apart tom's) building heavy duty rear axles and differentials for a '77 C3? i'd like to find a top of the line builder with a friendly customer service, who could supply a fully assembled rear end to me... thanks/Giu
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 04:30 PM
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I think Tom's is the only one for the 12 bolt diff, Vansteel sells the 30 spline HD axles for a 10 bolt case and the 1480 u-joint axles, but I am pretty sure Tom's is the only place that does the 12-bolt conversion, correct me if I'm wrong
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 04:49 PM
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your 100% correct.
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Van Steel
your 100% correct.
i've found difficult to deal with tom's, they must be for sure the cream of the cream but as they do not reply to faxes i've phoned them a week or so ago and actually the guy pretended a little too much from my poor english and my engineering skills and also wanted so many (precise) infos about my application that i had to quit, if i could wright to them and be answered everything could have been easier...but anyway, maybe i'd need somebody a bit less top of the line and a bit more likely to help and wishing to keep a good potential customer?
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 08:25 AM
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If you want you can e-mail me and I'll be happy to answer the questions you have. I get quite a bit from Tom's so I can order anything you want. My e-mail is vansteel@vansteel.com

Also here is a link to site showing some of the different products.
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...ups&Group=9000
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Van Steel
If you want you can e-mail me and I'll be happy to answer the questions you have. I get quite a bit from Tom's so I can order anything you want. My e-mail is vansteel@vansteel.com

Also here is a link to site showing some of the different products.
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...ups&Group=9000
i've sen you a mail already, thanks...
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by panic
hi everybody, who are the top guys (apart tom's) building heavy duty rear axles and differentials for a '77 C3? i'd like to find a top of the line builder with a friendly customer service, who could supply a fully assembled rear end to me... thanks/Giu
I wouldn't have to think about this. To me Gary does the best job, the most maticulous builder there is. Get his advice, get the job done by him. Our rearends are not that weak if set up right. I have beaten on mine for 19 years with more power then most ever put through them and only twisted a set of axles which I found on routine inspection.

gtr1999 to me is the best

Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Feb 2, 2006 at 09:56 AM.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 10:37 AM
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I'm a little hard on rear ends. All our 8 3/4 iron cased rear ends need are Richmond gears, $700 posi units and the custom hardened yokes that are about $500 a pair.

The big thing to making them last is to limit travel of the rear wheels. So I have HD trailing arms with Smart Struts. Good shocks, 420+ pound steel spring, and 3/4 sway.

I destroyed my original rear end and had to throw it away. The case was ruined so it was not rebuildable. The original yokes wore off the ends to the point of even the snap rings were gone. The case was full of metal flakes in the oil. The yokes had been grinding on the outside of the case from the half shafts pressing on them. Cheap posi units would break every year or two. Now I have had this rear with all the improvements for 5-6 engines and a few transmissions
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by panic
i've sen you a mail already, thanks...

I didn't recieve it yet.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
Our rearends are not that weak if set up right. I have beaten on mine for 19 years with more power then most ever put through them and only twisted a set of axles which I found on routine inspection.
Very true that the 63-79 diff can take a beating but put some real HP & torque to it with slicks and your looking at a hole new ball game. I don't think the stock 10 bolt diff, even if it's set up right, will out last a 12 bolt diff.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 12:27 PM
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got the e-mail

Dan
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
I wouldn't have to think about this. To me Gary does the best job, the most maticulous builder there is. Get his advice, get the job done by him. Our rearends are not that weak if set up right. I have beaten on mine for 19 years with more power then most ever put through them and only twisted a set of axles which I found on routine inspection.

gtr1999 to me is the best
though I rebuilt my own pumpkin, Gary was an enormous help and was open with his information. If I had it to do over again, I might just send him a crate with parts in it.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by PureSilver
though I rebuilt my own pumpkin, Gary was an enormous help and was open with his information. If I had it to do over again, I might just send him a crate with parts in it.
Me too. Gary gave some detailed advice the other day, on a rear I bought from someone else. That's good business. And from watching his thread, I can really relate to his level of craftsmanship, and concern about quality.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
I wouldn't have to think about this. To me Gary does the best job, the most maticulous builder there is. Get his advice, get the job done by him.

gtr1999 to me is the best


I would not let anyone touch my trailing arms or
diff. He has done work for me also, and takes it one step
further than some of our vendors, for the same price, and sometimes less. He's not a vendor here, but he should be one

Last edited by MEGALADON; Feb 2, 2006 at 01:44 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Van Steel
Very true that the 63-79 diff can take a beating but put some real HP & torque to it with slicks and your looking at a hole new ball game. I don't think the stock 10 bolt diff, even if it's set up right, will out last a 12 bolt diff.
For many many years I ran a big block with 2 stages of nitrous, MT wrinkle wall 12 inch wide slicks and a 400 transmission and a 5 stall converter. I came out hard on nitrous and then introduced the second stage once into second. I also had 411 gears all this time.
Never hurt anything. Did blow 3 700R's with this setup but never broke a rearend.
No it won't outlast a 12 bolt but guys give it a chance. You can always replace it if it lets go.
The majority of problems come from poorly maintained equipment.
If you look under someones car and it is a rust bucket chances are everything is ill maintained.
My friend Brian/vetter likes to skate his car out of cruise nights running BFG drag radials and this past summer MT drag radials. He also runs 3.9 gearing in his high dollar 383 stroker. Seems to never hurt anything either.
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Old Feb 20, 2006 | 06:18 PM
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What would be the cheapest yet most effective way of handling a 800hp+ corvette?

I have an 82 vette that I hope to put a turbo in for a summer project, and at this point the only thing I'm really worried about is the rear end... It wouldn't be nearly as hard as a nitrous hit and I plan for it to be a street car, so street radials, no slicks. I hoping it just melts the tires before it blows the rearend?
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Old Feb 20, 2006 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
gtr1999 to me is the best

Gary is the man and a great fellow forum member who contributes a ton around here.
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Old Feb 20, 2006 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by flynbyu82
What would be the cheapest yet most effective way of handling a 800hp+ corvette?

I have an 82 vette that I hope to put a turbo in for a summer project, and at this point the only thing I'm really worried about is the rear end... It wouldn't be nearly as hard as a nitrous hit and I plan for it to be a street car, so street radials, no slicks. I hoping it just melts the tires before it blows the rearend?
First. Cheap and 800hp corvette don't belong in the same line.

With the age of the cars saftey is very important. Before I worried about the rear diff I would do a number of other things. Check the frame over carefully for cracks and rust. Replace/Weld/Brace as required. Replace all critical fasteners with new.
Blow proof bellhousing, new drive/half shafts, u-joints and saftey loops. I had a broken motor mount and transmission mount that needed repair, discovered swapping the engine.

I check my car over carefully every month during the summer just to be safe.

After a summer of burning the 295's every once and a while they would hookup and things would happen quickly and I only have 500hp


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