Here is the old clunky steering, nothing good except for the assist cylinder. For sale if interested.

It was probably some type of sin, but I cut center link apart for the tie rod end eyes and the ground them square to fit into the new center link. This way I keep all of the factory tie rods and ends.

This is the center link that bolts to the new Grand Am rack.

The rack mounts started as extra 1/4" plate brackets that came with a Reese hitch for my explorer. Instead of square tube I used 5/8" pillow blocks.

With these brackets in place I thought no way was 1/4" plating was going to bend, however with everything hooked up there was about 1/2" flexing when the steering was turned so this additional bracket was made and is now rock solid.

Here is the front underside view.

Top front view.

Passenger side bracket

Using information provided by 427v8 and bumpsteer lessen from Norval I feel that this hands down the best upgrade for the vette. I will post the final parts being the u-joints and fluid lines soon. So far I'm out $150.00, the u-joints and hoses will be another $250.00. Definitely beats Steeroids and I have a lot to be proud of and to brag about.
Let me know what you guys think. I have other pics if there is something else you want to see.

Chris

 

Will you do a follow up later to let us know how it is working? Very good work I might add.

 

Keep the info and pictures comming. Very nice work!

 

Yes, please let us know how it feels once you get to drive it again. This is something I'm thinking about too, but mine will have to wait until after the new engine is in. Looks like you're doing a good job with it!

How low does the rack hang? Hard to tell from the pics, will it be lower than the oil pan when finished?

Thanks for sharing the info.

 

I will be doing a follow up on this, my t5 conversion, my dual fans from the junk yard. It all started with a spun bearing and now I can't stop. Someone help me, I don't now where to stop.

 

VERY good thinking about that cutting of the large center link for the tie rod ends to fit....like what you did very well with two minor point overall....

Like mine, I feel the inner tie rods should be mounted the other way around, so the grease cup can shed water, instead of injest it....mine are mounted like yours, no trouble so far as I know of, but just a thought, since you are still fabbing....

I feel the driver's side bracket is totally overdone, like steeroids...I did just a simple 1/8 thick wall 1" square tube made from L channel hardware store iron, bent forward and using the front two bolts of the old steering box, then a simple 1/8x1 bent length going to just ONE of the old ram assist brackets...
steering the car without or with assist yields frame twist but the bracket I have is not moving, the frame is....mine is much lighter and been there for 4 years now....

the pass side is even less, just an angle iron of 1" with some welding on it to clear the hydraulic lines...

GENE

 

Great job! Don't worry, you will stop when the money runs out!
Bernie

 

Chris I think you are doing a fantastic job. A true hot rodder
adapting other things to his ride.
If you really took my bump steer lessons to heart be prepared to lengthen the tie rod sleeves and shorten the center link.
I too cut off eyes and reweld them.
Great job

 

Hey that looks very nice!
Good idea on the center link.

So have you measured Bump steer yet??

 

He won't be able to measure bump without removing the springs and with the engine out it is more difficult removing the springs.
The amount of bump, toe in or toe out is a function of slope of the tie rod sleeves. Linearity is a function of tie rod sleeve length.
With short tie rod sleeves you might fix toe in when the chassie rises only to make toe out when bump down worse.
Tie rod sleeve length affects if you fix one the other is also fixed.
Dam 427V8 don't talk about bump, It just gets me going

 

mrvette
I thought the additional bracing was overkill that 427v8 did, but once I had the main brakets fabbed there was a 1/2" twist in the drivers plate. When I added the other bracket there is a very slight twist that I can see with the frame of the car, maybe 1/16-1/8". Nothing I can do with that right now and I suspect that it will be more once the motor is in and it torques the frame.
There isn't a whole lot of clearance for the tie rod ends, I really wanted them sideways. Where they are now I should have near zero bumpsteer and 1/2" clearance under the oil pan.

 

Bernie,
I think the wife will run out before the money does.

Chris

 

Norval & 427v8
I have not measured the bumpsteer yet, that I will do when I get to replacing the springs, bushings, and ball joints. This new steering so far is really tight, I can't believe I was driving this car before. I used this diagram, measured like 20 times. Had strings and protractors all over, looked like a 4th grade art project.


I'm pretty confident it will be so close that I probably won't make any further adjustments. It's been a great learning experience and I appreciate everyones input.

I do have any question that came up with the additional bracing and that is the frame twist. It is very minimal now but I can see it being compounded with engine torque. What can be done to stiffen? Or should it not be too rigid to keep from breaking?

Chris

 

very nice work

 

I don't believe you can overdo the bracing. I would do all I can to make everything as rigid as possible. I even went to solid mounts this year to help stablize the frame. I will pay for it in a rougher idle but once you are running it shouldn't be noticable

 

Will a shock tower brace help with this point? Or is that too far away? I plan on fabbing my own copy of what I've seen advertised.

Chris

 

I can't see it helping with the frame but it protects the crossmember from flexing it. I feel a shock tower brace is well worth the effort. YOu can actually put a caster camber gage on the axle and watch the camber reading change as you tighten the bar.

 

Its amazing how innovative the members are here I am impressed

 

I love it when people tell my my stering bracket is overkill, I'll remember that when I go into turn 3 at Brainard as hard on the brakes as I can and maximum G's around the corner. Or maybe turn 2 at 120mph....
Then there is turn 9, if you miss that you hit a concrete bridge.

Maybe it's overkill in your world, it's just enough in my world.

BTW, When you park my car on asphalt and turn the wheels, the bracket does not visiblely flex. with the engine in too.

definitly put in a strut brace, I don't think it will help frame flex by the rack, but you do want it.

Back to Bump steer, Tie rod height (inner or outer ) is very critical. I was seeing significant changes by adding washers. Tie rod length is much less critical, if you are within an inch you wil be fine overall but the very ends of travel.

It sounds like you ar doing a great job. nust be nice having the engine out and not having to crawl around under the car.

Also, how did you bend 1/4" plate? I'm jealous!

 

Also, how did you bend 1/4" plate? I'm jealous!

I believe he said it was from a reese hitch.

Stock our frames really flex badly where the slave cylinder meets the bottom of the frame. If you every have a control valve out of adjustment you will really see how weak our frames are.