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I was looking at the Summit web site for new 3/8' aluminum fuel line based on another thread, and figured I would ask for any other opinions on its use.
Since, there aren't many options without pulling body does anyone have a problem with using the alum tube? Is it too soft to last? I assume it will look more stock than braided, and will not need a comp fitting to make a single run right?
It will not look too stock, but it will work just fine. Be carefull using hose clamps, because you might bend the pipe. If it were me, I would just go ahead and run braided lines and AN fittings to the pump. Paint them black if you don't want them to be too flashy.
I ran an aluminum return line for my EFI for about 3 years. I finally removed it and replaced with steel and the aluminum was very brittle. It cracked in several places when removed. Problem with aluminum is that it work hardens.
I went to a good parts store that carried 3/8" steel hardline. Regular parts stores had no clue.
Mild steel is much easier to bend than SS. I used 3/8" brake lines. They are easy to bend and are zinked for long life. Each line is 5 ft long and has brake fittings on each end. I used 3 lenghts and brass blocks to join the lines. Install was easy this way. You need to find a parts store that carries stuff for big rigs. Most parts stores don't have brake lines that big.
Work Hardening??? Work hardening involves millions of cylces moving through a distance. A fuel line supported occasionally on the frame neither moves through a distance, doesn't see alot of strain and as for millions of cylces?? I don't think so. I do run fatique tests as part of my lab for undergrads.
Norval: I'm no metallurgist, but I do know what I saw. When I installed the line it was soft and bendable. After 2 years when I removed it, it cracked and split when bent. Something happened in those 2 years. Work hardening? Fatigue? I dunno, but I felt like I dodged a bullet.
Work Hardening??? Work hardening involves millions of cylces moving through a distance. A fuel line supported occasionally on the frame neither moves through a distance, doesn't see alot of strain and as for millions of cylces?? I don't think so. I do run fatique tests as part of my lab for undergrads.
Norval: I'm no metallurgist, but I do know what I saw. When I installed the line it was soft and bendable. After 2 years when I removed it, it cracked and split when bent. Something happened in those 2 years. Work hardening? Fatigue? I dunno, but I felt like I dodged a bullet.
Norval, I'm no metallurgest either, but isn't a fuel line subject to millions of cycles of >60psi when used in FI applications. I think of it as similar to the vacuum tank that fatiques with cracks due to numerous cycles of engine vacuum of < 20"Hg. Not much moving through distance going on, but lots of cycles make up for it. Ok now I am ready for Metallurgy 101
If this is true I can't believe that places are even allowed to sell it as fuel line!! I looked in Jegs catalog and they call thier aluminum fuel line annealed aircraft quality fuel line. What exactly does "annealed" mean? I just converted my 69 big block from a Mechanical dead head regulator fuel system to a Mallory Comp 140 electric pump with a return style regulator and was going to plum it with 1/2 aluminum fuel line. Now I'm wondering what to do????
If this is true I can't believe that places are even allowed to sell it as fuel line!! I looked in Jegs catalog and they call thier aluminum fuel line annealed aircraft quality fuel line. What exactly does "annealed" mean? I just converted my 69 big block from a Mechanical dead head regulator fuel system to a Mallory Comp 140 electric pump with a return style regulator and was going to plum it with 1/2 aluminum fuel line. Now I'm wondering what to do????
While I haven't removed the aluminum fuel line from the mustang to check it I have no fears that it is going to split and leak fuel. The line is annealed to make it easy to bend. I have no fear of using it for fuel lines. That said I have 1/2 inch stainless on the vet.
I guess I'm even more confused now. Norval was the SS line easy to bend over the wheel did you have to splice it together somewhere?
The stainless lines were NOT easy to bend and I had a special bender for them. I did use stainless compression fits for connecting the 3 pieces together to make the complete line.
For the mustang I just bought the 25 foot coil of 1/2 inch aluminum from summit and again used compression fittings for joining the line.
I had the 1/2 inch stainless lines at work and could get them for free but thought they were too much work for the mustang.
The stainless lines were NOT easy to bend and I had a special bender for them. I did use stainless compression fits for connecting the 3 pieces together to make the complete line.
For the mustang I just bought the 25 foot coil of 1/2 inch aluminum from summit and again used compression fittings for joining the line.
I had the 1/2 inch stainless lines at work and could get them for free but thought they were too much work for the mustang.
Do you even need comp fittings if you are using the alum, can't you just connect each end to the rubber hose into tank and front fuel line?
I was thinking of replacing my fuel line from the pump to the carb with the alum. Will this be a problem there also? or should I use the steel braided?