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So, what headers for a '72 BB 4-spd. I've got a GMPP 454 425hp/465tq in there. LS6 intake, Holley carb, MSD full ignition.
I was looking at the Hedmen headers (PN-68090)(plain so I can get them ceramic coated black locally) and they are 2" primary and 3" collectors. Is that overkill for a motor of this type/size/rpm range?
Can I run a full 3" exhaust back through the frame? Right now I think I have 2.5" pipes through the frame and there looks to be room.
I've also never liked the Hedmens, and always favored the Hookers.
The Hookers I've found are 2.125" primary and 3.5" collector. I'm thinking this HAS to be too big for my motor.
So, what do you all recomend? It sounds like the 2" Hedmens and black ceramic coating.
Hooker are $579 from Summit for the PN-2123-1HKR (1.875" and 3") (coated)
Hooker are $473 from summit for the PN-2123HKR (1.875" and 3") (uncoated)
Hooker are $751 from Summit for the PN-2225 (2.125" and 3.5")
I guess I'm leaning towards the PN-2123HKR uncoated and pay for local coating once I've fitted and "clearanced" the headers, also to get black ceramic, instead of the shiny stuff they can come with.
I'd rather save the $303 on the difference between the Hedmen and the cheaper Hookers... But I've had bad experiences with the Hedmans in the past and loved all the Hookers I've had... That didn't come across that well...
Hooker has less ground clearance is a bad thing, but better quality = longer lasting and if the gauge of metal is thicker, then it will be quieter as well...
The Hedman are 2" and the Hooker are 1.875", not a huge difference, but enough to possibly make a difference on a motor such as this.
Hedman are 16gauge, Hooker are 18 gauge. So the Hedmans are thicker and probably are "quieter" (as far as valve train noise...)
Hookers are "tuned" length, Hedman are not.
Hedman have 1/4" thick flanges, Hooker have 5/16" flanges.
Hedman come with reducers and are "ball and socket" type flanges, Hooker are normal 3 bolt flanges. With the past Hookers and some copper crush gaskets I've never had a leak out of the collectors so this isn't an issue either.
Just looking at the build quality of the pics on Summit the Hookers are hands down better then the Hedmans...
If I wasn't so picky, I'd get some pre-coated. But I don't want anything shiny under the hood that doesn't belong. So I'll buy them bare and have a local place coat them black for me.
I had some LG Motorsports long tubes (stainless steel) coated in Black Ceramic for my '02 Z06... Nobody can tell I have headers unless I mention it or they look really close in the right light... Handy for the "cali crackdown" on smog violations.
Tuning to me means equal length primaries to take advantage of the scavenging effect at a given RPM. Looking at the picture the primaries aren't equal length.
Another option for BB Corvettes is Thorley #THY-360. 14 guage, 3/8" flange, 2" primaries all 34-36" length. These are better quality than any SuperComps I have used in my other cars.
Will only fit manual trans, no AC cars due to equal length tube routing. I special ordered through Summit a long time ago, cost was @$330 uncoated.
Tuning to me means equal length primaries to take advantage of the scavenging effect at a given RPM. Looking at the picture the primaries aren't equal length.
That is why I put the "tuned" in quotes like that. The Summit description claims they are...
As for the Thorley's, for some reason I've never been a big fan of theirs. Maybe because they made high priced smog legal truck headers that didn't gain much power?
I don't think Summit makes claims on behalf of their suppliers, I believe they are passing on what the suppliers are claiming. So if that is true,
maybe what Hooker is really saying is that with those unequal length primaries, if you listen closely, at idle you can hear the tune "And I'm proud to be an American".
I have had good luck with hedman. My last set lasted over 15 years and I just wanted new ones so I again went with hedman. I am really disappointed in the ball and socket instead of a flange but I hear that is a leak proof seal without alignment problems I do wrap my headers.
Norval, What are your reasons for not liking the ball and socket on the collector? I am curious as I had been thinking of cutting the flange and retrofitting with ball and socket this winter.
Ok, just installed these Hooker headers... First impression, VERY nice fit. Slid right in and damned near installed themselves. WAY easier then removing the stock manifolds and NOTHING like the horror stories I've heard of header installs on C3 BB's...
Now, I do have one contact point. The passenger side header is touching the "idler arm" or "pitman arm" (not sure of the correct term/lingo here) on the pass side frame rail.
There was also a zerk fitting on the piece that with the wheels turned to the left cleared, but would not allow the wheels to be turned to the right much past center at all. So I removed it. Now if I could flip this piece over the zerk would most likely be out of harms way, but I don't know it the piece is able to be flipped. Or I could just try to find a plug of the same size to install in place of the zerk and just remove/replace for greasing...
Norval, What are your reasons for not liking the ball and socket on the collector? I am curious as I had been thinking of cutting the flange and retrofitting with ball and socket this winter.
Phil
My existing 3 inch stainless exhuast has flanges. The ball and socket means I have to cut the flanges off and have the ends of the pipe made into a socket. The nearest place that has the dies for 3 inch is 30 miles away.
The ball and socket I hear seal really well. The other thing is my oxygen sensor needs to go and I have to weld in a new bung. Again not a big deal but more work.
I will buy 4 feet of 3 inch stainless, have a socket put of either end then cut it in half , cut the flanges off and weld the new sockets into the existing 3 inch exhaust.
I do wrap all my headers and then spray them with silicon sealer.
A freshly wrapped header.
Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Feb 16, 2006 at 03:00 PM.
doesn't wrapping your headers negate the warranty...thats what summit told me when i ordered my headmans...
Yes it voids the warranty but have you ever tried to collect a warranty anyway?? I don't care. If they overheat and destroy themselves I will get anther set. They are cheap enough.
I really like how the wrap keeps the heat in and underhood temperatures down. My last set lasted over 10 years and they are still good enough to put back on but I decided to just put a new set on.
I really feel the hedman Elite headers are a good product but they don't have the 2 inch tubes for my bigblock.