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I knew it was too good to be true,no rust everythings there and everything works....except for the heater core!I can't believe I didn't notice the hoses looped back to themselves.I changed the valve covers back to stock today and discovered this,so how much of a PITA is this going to be on an AIR car?Can it be done from inside,or do I have to pull the whole box off the firewall?
According to my chilton repair manual from 68-80 with ac: 1 remove the battery ground cable. 2: drain the cooling system. it is not necessary to evacuate the ac refrigerant. 3: disconnect the heater hoses at the fire wall and plug the pipes. 4:remove the nuts from the distribuator studs protuding through the fire wall. 5: remove the right side dash pad and center cluster. 6:disconnect the right dash outlet from the center duct. 7:remove the center duct fron the selector duct. 8: remove the selector dict to the dash panel and pull it to the right an to the rear. 9: remove the cables and wiring connections from the selector and remove it from the car. 10: remove the tempature door cam plate from the selector duct. 11: emove the heater core and housing from the selector. 12: reverse the removal procedure to install
Before you get your hopes up high, fit the replacement heater core first.
I ordered a new GM replacement core the sumbeach would not fit, so I took the old and the new to a rad shop, had my original side tanks soldered to the new and the fit was perfect...had I known this, I would have taken the old to the rad shop and had them supply the core. Would have saved me 60.00
It's also a good idea to test it for leaks before you button things up. I've know a couple of folks that put them all back together only to discover that they leaked. Both also bought less expensive replacement heater cores so that may have been a factor. I would buy the best one available since it's way too much work to do it all over again.
Take a bicyle tire inner tube, cut it in half, and clamp the ends to the heater inlet/outlet ports.
Fill the inner tube with air through the inner tube valve, and let it sit overnight. If the tube is still full of air, there are no leaks. If it is deflated, then there is a leak somewhere. I guess a big bucket of water would also tell you that by submerging it when it is pressurized also.
also here is a corvetteforum site I saved to help with my heater core when its time comes up.
Well the new core is in and the dash is back together without the Gauges.It really wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.It only took about 31/2 hrs to get it done,and probabl another 1 1/2 to get the gauges back in right.The biggest PITA was getting the dash past the A- pillars without busting the 27 year old dried out corners off.I want to clean up the gauges and check everything before I put them back.The only Bubba influence I ran into was the aftermarket radio install,and Bubba was nice enough to not cut the center bezel or factory wiring.While the car was apart I fount the Factory antenna lead and the factory CB lead?HLY CRP!Here's a couple of pics my darkest hour.
did we check the heater core to see if it was bad, could have been a bad vacum line to the blend door letting hot air in when he didn`t want hot air...just a thought from experience........
did we check the heater core to see if it was bad, could have been a bad vacum line to the blend door letting hot air in when he didn`t want hot air...just a thought from experience........
Yes sir I did,all vacuum doos work and the core goes ssssssssssssss with air on it.I'm just glad this job wasn't the nightmare I thought it was gonna be.