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Starting Idle Update - Is this normal for a vette

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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 11:00 PM
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Default Starting Idle Update - Is this normal for a vette

Remove the air filter assembly to expose the carburetor. The choke is on the passenger side of the carburetor, is about 2" round and has 3 small screws holding the cover on the choke. If you look closely you will see small indicator marks on the cover. Loosen the 3 screws and rotate the cover to adjust the choke setting. This should be done with the motor cold. You may also have to move the throttle linkage slightly to allow the butterfly valve on top of the carburetor to operate. Adjust the choke until it just closes when the motor is cold, then start the car and check the operation of the choke. It should "pull off" easily when you tap on the gas and drop down to a normal idle well before 5 to 8 minutes of running. .
Below is the pic of my carb, I did not see the choke as described above from my earlier thread. But I did see in the chilton's manual the instructions on how to adjust the choke rod so that the choke valve is completely closed when cold. So I bent the rod that comes out of the thermostat (that coiled part) as per the book and still couldn't get the butterfly choke valve to close. But I found that I could rotate the part that my finger is on (don't know what it is called) in the pic ccw just a bit and could get the choke valve to close completely. When I rotate that part ccw it feels like it had a few stops (it kinda clicks a bit) don't know if that is ok. But my problem was that when I start the car it idles at 1500 rpm for about 5 min's and tapping the gas to knock it down doesn't work until the car is completely warm (5-7 min). Anyone have any insight into what I have to adjust on the carb to remedy this problem. Thanks.

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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 12:38 AM
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There is a passage way below the choke, heat crossover, that is probably carboned shut. Pull the intake and take it to a machine shop and have it boiled, clean, paint, reinstall. To check the choke setting. The choke plate should just barely shut at room temp if adjusted correctly. To check pull the throttle partway open to let the choke spring pull the choke plate shut. Then make sure the choke pull off holds vacuum and is not broken. With vacuum applied it should pull the choke plate open about an 3/16, to keep from over rich condition until the choke spring heats up and opens. Ron B.

Last edited by itsonlyairandfuel; Feb 8, 2006 at 12:40 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 02:09 AM
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I'd almost guarantee that your choke heat port is plugged and you're not getting enough heat to the bottom of that choke coil to pull it off. The top of your butterfly valve is black from too much fuel/choke so you're probably dumping fuel like crazy until you finally get enough heat after your 5-8 minute run time to drop the choke.
Pull the manifold. It's the only fix and it's not that hard to do.
Good luck
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 06:40 AM
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In addition, try resizing your photo. Don't know if it is my computer or not but your photo is HUGE.

Gary
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 07:26 AM
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Well I will get to pulling it this weekend....I guess I will order a new intake manifold since the one on there looks pretty poor, or do the machine shop route. Thanks for the help.

Last edited by vabeachvette; Feb 8, 2006 at 07:30 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 09:34 AM
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Before you decide to replace it, is everything else on the car stock? If you're not looking to spend a lot of money, I would just get it redone. However, once you start modifying, you'll keep on and keep on and keep on. Right guys?
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 09:49 AM
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Also, make sure the heat-riser on the right exhaust manifold is there and functioning properly. It is required for correct choke operation.
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 10:13 AM
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A blocked crossover or non-functioning riser will not cause the choke to not close.

For a step-by-step procedure on setting up the choke, drop me an e-mail request for my choke setup paper - it covers things not mentioned by Chilton's:
V8FastCars@msn.com
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Fubba
However, once you start modifying, you'll keep on and keep on and keep on. Right guys?
My master cylinder began to fail at the end of last year so I decided it needed to be replaced.
*Since I was going to do that, then it made sense to upgrade the brakes with new rotors and Wilwood calipers.
*Well, since the rotors were going to be off the car, this would be a good time to replace the shocks.
*Hell, since I'm in it this far, then I might as well upgrade the suspension with a composite monospring.
*And, throw in a sway bar just for good measure.

Parts are accumulating in the garage (waiting for Precision Brakes to finally send me my brake kit) and I will start the project this week-end.
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