Oil pump problem, Please help
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Oil pump problem, Please help
I recently installed a 383 stroker and went to prime the oil pump. The pump primed for 5 seconds then slowed down and stopped. It felt like a rag was thrown into an impeller and the impeller stopped running. The drill chuck then turned in the opposite direction for a second. Confused but the pump worked for a few seconds, I thaught, so I went to start the motor and it started to run for 30 seconds and stopped. There is no oil pressure. I replaced the sending unit and wire. Still no oil pressure. I went to prime it again and the same thing happened. There is no oil coming up the push rods. Please help.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
When you spin it with the drill, does the oil pressure rise? (you will need a second person to look at the gauge). Is the drill strong enough?. Thick oil takes a strong drill to prime the motor. It also takes a few minutes of priming to get oil from the rocker arms. You will also have to rotate the engine a few times to allow all the lifters to prime. G/L
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,319
Likes: 7
From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
a few thoughts
sounds almost like you dont have enough clearance from the oil pick up to the bottom of the pan. As you spinn up the pump, you get to a point where the suction created becomes strong enough to to stop the pump. then afetr a short period the pressure bleeds off and you can spin up the pump again. Unfortunately there is no ware to verify this with out removing the oil pan and breaking out the ruler.
secondly, what are you using to prime the pump? inside the block, there is an oil path that provides lubricationto the distributor. If you dont use the right tool whicjh blocks that passge then oil flows down into the distributor hole and prevents oil from getting throught the entire block. I dont think this is your problem, but more of an FYI
Good luck
TIm
secondly, what are you using to prime the pump? inside the block, there is an oil path that provides lubricationto the distributor. If you dont use the right tool whicjh blocks that passge then oil flows down into the distributor hole and prevents oil from getting throught the entire block. I dont think this is your problem, but more of an FYI
Good luck
TIm
Last edited by sweethence; Feb 8, 2006 at 02:04 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: NC
Until you said no oil pressure shows on the gauge when running I was thinking that it was normal for the drill slow down and stop.
With my build I was able to stop a fully charged cordless drill due to internal pressure being built up by the oil pump, and that was with just my finger over the oil sensor hole. I have great pressure when running.
Obviouly I wouldnt run the engine until you are sure you have oil, but I would double check that gauge/sending unit before going too far pulling things apart.
Good luck.
With my build I was able to stop a fully charged cordless drill due to internal pressure being built up by the oil pump, and that was with just my finger over the oil sensor hole. I have great pressure when running.
Obviouly I wouldnt run the engine until you are sure you have oil, but I would double check that gauge/sending unit before going too far pulling things apart.
Good luck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,472
Likes: 18
From: Lake Ozark, MO
Mine did the same thing a few weeks ago...turned fine at first and then slowed way down (pressure was building). 3/8 electric drill couldn't hack it. I would pull the sending unit and see if it pushing oil out..
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
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From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I used a 1/2 DeWalt electric drill to prime mine attached to an old distributor. Primed it up but it was work and surprised me at how long it took to push oil out the pushrods.
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Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
You know it's funny. My Dewalt,with two fresh batteries will barely turn the pump over so I tried a 1/2 electric drill and cooked the brushes. Still no oil coming to the sending unit or the valve covers. I'm useing an oil pump primer that includes a bushing to pressurize the valve train. This is the first time I have used this tool. I have never had a problem like this before when I installed new engines in the last 3 vettes I've owned. The pump has always been easy to turn over. And yes I did have my son keep an eye on the gauge with still no reading. I hate to pull the pan but I guess there is no other choice.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 1
From: Lafayette Louisiana
Originally Posted by sweethence
sounds almost like you dont have enough clearance from the oil pick up to the bottom of the pan. As you spinn up the pump, you get to a point where the suction created becomes strong enough to to stop the pump. then afetr a short period the pressure bleeds off and you can spin up the pump again. Unfortunately there is no ware to verify this with out removing the oil pan and breaking out the ruler.
secondly, what are you using to prime the pump? inside the block, there is an oil path that provides lubricationto the distributor. If you dont use the right tool whicjh blocks that passge then oil flows down into the distributor hole and prevents oil from getting throught the entire block. I dont think this is your problem, but more of an FYI
Good luck
TIm
secondly, what are you using to prime the pump? inside the block, there is an oil path that provides lubricationto the distributor. If you dont use the right tool whicjh blocks that passge then oil flows down into the distributor hole and prevents oil from getting throught the entire block. I dont think this is your problem, but more of an FYI
Good luck
TIm
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
you know you can use a mechanical sending unit to see the oil pressure....definitely use a priming tool and a drill of substance to turn that engine....if you don't see oil coming out of the rockers don't even think about runing the engine....you said the motor ran for 30 seconds then stopped...can you turn the motor over by hand still??? i would think the lube used inthe buidup process would cover the bearings for 30 secs of running but you need to get oil flowing before you start it again....i like kevinator80s theory...or you could have a wimpy drill
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,412
Likes: 3
Originally Posted by Zimo
Make sure the priming tool has the aluminum section/piece for the lifters. The sitck type won't move any oil to the top end.
But if you fired the engine and got no oil on top of the heads... somethings wrong and it's not just the tool. And my high volume pump smoked my black and decker too.
You need to pull the pan and take a closer look. Did the pickup come with the pan? Do they work together? Is the oil drive shaft connecting properly? Is it binding somehow??? Running out of ideas... Might your pump have sucked up a bolt or something?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,319
Likes: 7
From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by kevinator80
I will have to disagree with idea that suction will stop the drill. My limited experience with pumps tells me that if the oil supply is shut off the impeller will then become easier to turn as it begins to cavitate? Would it be possible for a passage to be blocked? If he stops the drill, the oil then backflows into the pump relieving the pressure and allowing the drill to turn again until it pressures up?
Your guess is as good as mine, I hate to say, but i think you got to drop that oil pan. I still think there is a clearance problem between the oick up and the bottom of the pan though
Sorry Charie
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
I dunno what's the problem w/ Dawson's motor ... but ...
This extra step will lube your motors more completely and help ease the strain on your drills: as you spin the primer, have a buddy roll the motor through with a pull handle on the crank bolt ... after you feel the pressure starting to build ... minimum two full crank revs (smooth revs, not jerky).
-edit-
And fellows ... it's cold in alotta NA these days ... if your shop is cold, you might wanna warm the pan/oil with something.
This extra step will lube your motors more completely and help ease the strain on your drills: as you spin the primer, have a buddy roll the motor through with a pull handle on the crank bolt ... after you feel the pressure starting to build ... minimum two full crank revs (smooth revs, not jerky).
-edit-
And fellows ... it's cold in alotta NA these days ... if your shop is cold, you might wanna warm the pan/oil with something.
Last edited by jackson; Feb 9, 2006 at 02:05 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: St Louis Missouri
From your description, you have a blockage in the engine. I’ve primed a number of engines, and never had the drill stop and reverse, were your spinning the drill in the correct direction? I don’t think that it is a clearance problem with the pick-up and pan, because if it didn’t pick up any oil it would be very easy to turn, like a vacuum revving up when you put your hand on the intake. If this is a new engine could you have missed one of the shipping bolts or plugs? A test to see if your pump is working is to take off the oil filter and try to prim it. The oil should just dump out, if it doesn’t you have an oil pump problem, if it does then there is a blockage in the block.
As far as finishing the priming, set the engine to TDC and run the primer tool (borrow one from Auto Zone for free) with a drill for about one song on the radio in your garage, turn the engine 1/4th of a turn and prime it for another song on the radio. Continue this method until you have made two full revolutions of the crank.
As far as finishing the priming, set the engine to TDC and run the primer tool (borrow one from Auto Zone for free) with a drill for about one song on the radio in your garage, turn the engine 1/4th of a turn and prime it for another song on the radio. Continue this method until you have made two full revolutions of the crank.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Thanks guys for the comments. I'll give everything a shot this weekend. The tool Torqvette shows in his picture is the one I'm using. I can turn the engine over by hand so it isn't frozen. I'll keep you guys posted on what I find. Thanks