Rag Joint replacement
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
Rag Joint replacement
Hi,
I have a 73 with power steering and a very worn rag joint.
I removed the two bolts that hold the rag joint to the steering wheel shaft, but can not figure out how to remove the other two "pinch studs"
Can anyone enlighten me. All help is appreciated.
Bret
I have a 73 with power steering and a very worn rag joint.
I removed the two bolts that hold the rag joint to the steering wheel shaft, but can not figure out how to remove the other two "pinch studs"
Can anyone enlighten me. All help is appreciated.
Bret
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,173
Likes: 3,982
From: Connecticut, USA
Big G is right,if you're using one of those rebuild kits for rag joints throw it out now and buy only the GM rag joint. Be careful about prying on the steering column too. I didn't realize I moved my column up on the 72 I'm doing until Jim Shea posted the spec for th ecloumn length. Without looking up I think it was 4.7" and the gap between the box and column end is 1.3"
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I had to grind a couple of the bolts/nuts down to get everything to clear the steering box once it was assembled. Not a big deal. As far as the anti-rebuild kit paranoia, mine works just fine. The steering box and column are locked in place, so even if anything were to go wrong, the flanges would still give you minimal steering. Hell, I was steering with the flanges for quite a while, so I know it works... 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 8
From: Redruth Cornwall
When I did the rag joint on mine, well had a friend do it...he had to grind the heads off as described above and punch them through. If we had known, we would have bought the complete rag joint instead of the rebuild kit. We saved a few £ but the extra time and hassle wasnt worth it. Send the rebuild kit back and buy the complete joint. Just my 2 pence worth.
Also, the steering wheel moved very slightly on reassembly...not sure how as everything only fits one way! Now the steering wheel looks slightly turned when going in a straight line. PITA when parking.
Also, the steering wheel moved very slightly on reassembly...not sure how as everything only fits one way! Now the steering wheel looks slightly turned when going in a straight line. PITA when parking.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
The only correct way to gain enough axial clearance to remove the flexible coupling is to either remove three of the gear attaching bolts to the frame and tip the gear. Or disconnect the steering column from under the dash and pull it back a short distance.
Prying on the flexible coupling will most likely collapse the steering column shaft back into the steering column. This will not cause any sort of safety problem -- but the steering shaft is quite difficult to get back to its original length.
The reasons I am DEATH against rebuilt kits are as follows:
1). Many of the kits attach the rubber disc with just plain bolts. You must use shoulder bolts or steel bushings to create a metal to metal clamp joint when you are entrapping on a rubber part. You NEVER try and make a secure connection by just compressing rubber. NOT EVEN by double nutting, torque prevailing nuts, or Locktite!!!
2). The kits do not supply a grounding wire or supply a rubber disc with a screen molded into the face (like the production flexible coupling disc.) You may find that your horn no longer works with just a rubber disc with no ground path.
Jim
Prying on the flexible coupling will most likely collapse the steering column shaft back into the steering column. This will not cause any sort of safety problem -- but the steering shaft is quite difficult to get back to its original length.
The reasons I am DEATH against rebuilt kits are as follows:
1). Many of the kits attach the rubber disc with just plain bolts. You must use shoulder bolts or steel bushings to create a metal to metal clamp joint when you are entrapping on a rubber part. You NEVER try and make a secure connection by just compressing rubber. NOT EVEN by double nutting, torque prevailing nuts, or Locktite!!!
2). The kits do not supply a grounding wire or supply a rubber disc with a screen molded into the face (like the production flexible coupling disc.) You may find that your horn no longer works with just a rubber disc with no ground path.
Jim
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Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Jim, the "Help!" brand kit I used had shoulder bolts...and it was $10 cheaper than the Corvette catalog kits. As far as the grounding thing goes, I think my horn still works. I'll check it later.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 26,545
Likes: 46
From: Huntersville NC
I recently replaced my ragjoint. Bought the replacement GM piece. I was really afraid to mess with the steering column and thought it would be easier to move the box. Well, I couldn't even reach the bolts that hold the box (I have headers - they were in the way), but I found it was quite simple to unscrew and gently pull back the steering column. I just followed Jim's instructions and was very careful. I even pulled it and put it back twice because I had the coupling on wrong the first time.
Everything went back together fine, but unfortunately like jotto my steering wheel is not centered. Small irritation, and I will fix it soon. With my 68 style steering coupling, the column end is full round, so it can fit into the coupling turned off center.
Everything went back together fine, but unfortunately like jotto my steering wheel is not centered. Small irritation, and I will fix it soon. With my 68 style steering coupling, the column end is full round, so it can fit into the coupling turned off center.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
I just finished a paper on steering wheel centering. Here is the link":
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ngC308FE06.doc
You may not need it. But if you have any comments let me know.
Jim
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ngC308FE06.doc
You may not need it. But if you have any comments let me know.
Jim
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Now that I think about it, I think my rebuild kit had a bent metal "spring" that went across two of the bolts to provide a ground path. I'll see if I can get some pics of the sucker tonight.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 837
Likes: 3
From: Texas
Originally Posted by Jim Shea
I just finished a paper on steering wheel centering. Here is the link":
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ngC308FE06.doc
You may not need it. But if you have any comments let me know.
Jim
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ngC308FE06.doc
You may not need it. But if you have any comments let me know.
Jim
Thanks for sharing that....
I just printed it off and put it in my Corvette Library.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 16,978
Likes: 7
From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
I disagree 100%.
The column is lighter and I find it easier to get to the bolts. Reinstallation is a bit of a PITA at the firewall.