Yesterday's project - Monospring
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Boulder CO
Yesterday's project - Monospring
Installed the 330# composite monospring from VB&P yesterday. Also added the QA1 rear shocks. (The fronts will get added when I replace all the rotors and calipers whenever Precision Brakes decides to send me the kit. It's been 4 weeks so far.)
The diff seemed like it might have a leak so I also removed the spare tire holder which held a vintage 2-ply bias tire. This assembly seems extraneous so I left it off the car. Don't need no stinkin' spare tire anyway! Luckily, no diff leak, just accumulated grunge.
The forum was great as I dug for tips before doing the project.
The vice-grip provided a stop to prevent the jack from sliding as I relieved tension on the spring to remove the end bolts. Don't forget to insert the wrench at the top "before" raising the spring.
Nice, shiny QA1 shock.
A little voice told me that I shouldn't have screwed the nut so far up the bolt after installing the spring. I hate it when I'm right!
There's a reason for the 10" bolts that came with the spring. Such as maintaining normal ride height! This was fixed by quality time under the car loosening the nuts again back to the end of the bolt!
I found that a nice I.P.A. is the perfect accompaniment for spring and shock replacement.
The diff seemed like it might have a leak so I also removed the spare tire holder which held a vintage 2-ply bias tire. This assembly seems extraneous so I left it off the car. Don't need no stinkin' spare tire anyway! Luckily, no diff leak, just accumulated grunge.
The forum was great as I dug for tips before doing the project.
The vice-grip provided a stop to prevent the jack from sliding as I relieved tension on the spring to remove the end bolts. Don't forget to insert the wrench at the top "before" raising the spring.
Nice, shiny QA1 shock.
A little voice told me that I shouldn't have screwed the nut so far up the bolt after installing the spring. I hate it when I'm right!
There's a reason for the 10" bolts that came with the spring. Such as maintaining normal ride height! This was fixed by quality time under the car loosening the nuts again back to the end of the bolt!
I found that a nice I.P.A. is the perfect accompaniment for spring and shock replacement.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Boulder CO
Originally Posted by rihwoods
Looks like the standard length spring from the bolt position...are you adjusting the rear a little lower or fitting bigger tires ?
Rich
Rich
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
From: Orange massachusettes
Do you have to use 10 inch bolts for monospring conversion?? If you re-used old bolts do would your ride hieght be higher?? I'm going to do monospring conversion myself, but I want stock ride hieght.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 16,100
Likes: 17
Originally Posted by alanbl
Keeping the same ride height as with the original spring. I think it still needs a little adjustment. Same for the tires. Stock 15" wheels and at least for now, I'm keeping the same.
Spring is 1 1/2" shorter than stock length...think 60 Lbs stiffer..
Last edited by rihwoods; Feb 12, 2006 at 11:46 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Boulder CO
Originally Posted by yukon988
Was there a test drive? Or are you snowed in?
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Boulder CO
Originally Posted by 72 LT1
Do you have to use 10 inch bolts for monospring conversion?? If you re-used old bolts do would your ride hieght be higher?? I'm going to do monospring conversion myself, but I want stock ride hieght.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Boulder CO
Originally Posted by jotto
So how much did this cost and what was the time frame involved? Did you encounter any major problems or did it all go sweet?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,000
Likes: 22
From: Boulder Creek California
It continues to mystify me why these springs are curved like they are, causing the need for 10" + bolts. Is anyone struggling to get their cars higher so they need such a highly curved spring? Would the spring be less strong if it was closer to flat? 10" bolts are included so obviously the problem is known.
Alan, I would not drive your car with the spring adjusted past the bottom of the wheel. They WILL contact, mine did and took a 6" gouge of of the sidewall.
Someone must know why this problem continues uncorrected, why don't they speak up?
-Chris
Alan, I would not drive your car with the spring adjusted past the bottom of the wheel. They WILL contact, mine did and took a 6" gouge of of the sidewall.
Someone must know why this problem continues uncorrected, why don't they speak up?
-Chris
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Boulder CO
Originally Posted by LiveandLetDrive
Alan, I would not drive your car with the spring adjusted past the bottom of the wheel. They WILL contact, mine did and took a 6" gouge of of the sidewall.
If I do tear out the sidewalls after driving, then I'll let you know so you can say "I told you so!"
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,000
Likes: 22
From: Boulder Creek California
Well that is certainly good news. I believe my bolts were 10" when it happened to me, however they were clearly past the wheel, I just didn't realize how much the sidewall would flex. I think it was actually the cup/washer that holds the bushing that did the cutting. From your picture showing the bolt it looks like the end of the bolt is way past the wheel but it must just be the angle of the picture. I know others have had tire damage as well so I didn't want the same to happen here. The bolt is fixed relative to the wheel so you shouldn't have any problem!
enjoy,
Chris
enjoy,
Chris
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
For best results, adjust nut on spring bolt until the half shaft is horizontal, then cut off the bolt about 1/8" below the nylok nut. If this will impact the tire sidewall, add a 3/16" spacer to the wheel hub to move the wheel/tire out a bit.
The longer bolt is due to the different arc in the VB spring vs the OE or TRW composite spring. The flatter arc is due to the method of fabricaton.
The longer bolt is due to the different arc in the VB spring vs the OE or TRW composite spring. The flatter arc is due to the method of fabricaton.