I posted this in C1/C2 but I spend so much time here too I thought I'd share with you guys..

Just another day of putting my motor together... Just thought I'd post some pics for you guys.. We all know everyone likes looking at motor pics..

I tell you what the slickest tool yet..


We loaded all the pistons in.. All lubed up and ready to go



After loading all the pistons in I torqued the rods down..


We got the windage tray fitted, baffle and oil pump installed.


All was going well except I got the joy of putting the cam in 2x.. Yep you read it right.. For those of you that haven't put a cam in before this was a little nerve racking as I didn't want to nick a cam bearing..
The first time it was due to the we installed the plug at the rear of the block to deep so the cam would not seat all the way back. So as usual Bill comes thru and has another to put in. This time we get it all together and all looks well. So we went onto degreeing the cam. Then the timing cover and oil pan. Well after getting it all together we checked the cam end play and there was none.. With the Retro roller cam that I'm using there needs to be .005 to .010 endplay on the cam. After removing the timing cover and oil pan to see what the problem was we discovered it was our timing cover.

The timing cover that was ordered has a reinforcing stamped into it and then a piece welded into it. This piece is .090 thick and was causing our problem. After the piece was removed and everything was re-assembled (two hours) all was well..




Well that is the short and skinny of my day... Lots of work.. Thanks to Bill and Mike for their help.. This project would not be possible without your help.. Hope you guys like the pics...Dave

 

This may be a stupid question, but could the timing cover reinforcement just been banged out a bit to get the required clearance?

 

It could have but it was a .090 re-inforcement that's close to an 1/8 and just removing it was the better option. I have a Stewart water pump and it has the threaded bolt to run up to the timing cover to prevent the forward walk of the cam. The re-inforced timing cover was really just over kill.. Dave..

 

Wish:
Sounds like you may've had a mis-match between cam button length & timing cover type. Usually, the old-style timing covers (ribbed) take a longer cam button. The newer covers (flat) take a shorter cam button. The reinforced covers (regardless ribbed or flat) take a shorter cam button. The reinforcement is there for a reason ... the cam will push the button against the cover & can deflect cover if cover not reinforced. Cam buttons are available in both short & long lengths. Also, many aftermarket aluminum water pumps have a tapped boss that's intended for a "cam stop" ... you put a bolt in there and snug it against face of timing cover ... to limit cover deflection.

 

Yep... The Stewart pump has that cam stop in it so the re-inforced cover was over kill.. Just a simple mismatch of parts...Dave..

 

Gee just my bore size 4.040. I have used one of those before and they are real nice. i wish I had a set but at a rebuild every so often it does not pay to have these. Are you renting that tool out?

 

Using a retro-roller on a .040" over sounds like the second rebuild on the original block.
I'm curious now did u have the block sonic tested?? The old pig iron blocks i'm told have a thick casting and large overbores are common. How thick are ur cyls now??
Nice work with windage tray and looks like a really clean block.
Good luck with finish and startup. Let us know if we can help.

cardo0

 

Sonic testing is one thing I didn't do. This will be the second rebuild I've done on this motor and I think someone else had been in it before me. When I originally opened it up three years ago it had domed TRW pistons in it. Thus the reason I know someone was there before me. When I had it built last time the builder bored a virgin stock bore block to .040 over.. My lack of knowledge allowed this to occur. This time the bores were only honed and are at .041.

I don't think I'll have any problems with the block though at .041 maybe if I went to .060.. What might be your concern that maybe that the cylinder wall thickness could be less than optimal due to core shift? Also if so what might this cause a problem with the Roller cam vs a Flat tappet cam? Thanks... Dave..


Gordon.. Nope the ring compressor was bought for the ease of installation.. If you need it let me know I gave it to the guy helping me out. I'm sure he'd let me have you borrow it so you don't have to borrow one... Just email me.. You know the address.. Dave..

 

Just trying to say that the old (pre-'70) blocks were thicker and many overbored to .060" or greater. I can remember when sb chevy pistons were advertized in .080" or maybe .090" over. I met a guy that claimed his was 1/8" (.125") overbore but only heard it run and not able to verify (was a mean eng though). I don't expect u'll have any problems with .040" over. I was just curious 'bout that old block cyl wall if u had it tested - to verify my expectations.

As far as core shift it is always possible but again i don't expect a problem with urs.

Some times the lifter bores can get worn though or even the cam bore out of alignment to cause cam timing changes. Bad lifter bore or cam bore alignment can cause 1 end of cam to advance the vlv timing while the other end of cam gets retarded vlv timing a little.
How much without measuring is only guessing.

Well good luck and thx for sharing. cardo0

 

good pic's