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What is the factory setting for the APT adjustment screw? I have heard 8.5 turns out. This is for a Rochester Q-Jet Model 17059216 with all stock parts. I have no idea where it was when I started...
I do not know but I would consider trial and error. The adjustment affects part throttle mixture so I would assume lean is one direction and rich is the other direction. One day I might try using my wide band 02 meter to play with it. Just not enough hours in the day recently.
Otherwise I may just pull it off and send it to Lars. (wave white flag here)
The service manual recommends you buy a new or professionally rebuilt carb if you mess up the APT.
It requires a lot of specialized equipment to reset the APT once it has been messed with.
I suppose you could guess.... but I tried that on my Silverado Q-Jet and it didn't work too well... ended up replacing it with a Holley 80555-1. Had to replace the computer controlled distributor as well.
"All Chevy passenger car Q-Jets from 1975-up have the APT - not just the ECM-controlled carbs. There are 2 versions of the APT: One is a brass adjuster located just forward of the power piston. This one sets a lower stop limit for the power piston, thus setting part throttle (cruise) mixture. It has no effect on WOT mixture.
The other configuration has no piston lower stop limit, allowing the primary rods to pull fully into the jets. Instead, there is a second metering jet in the forward passenger side corner of the float bowl with a large, round insert above it. This insert is a spring loaded "metering rod" that is adjustable from the top. The position of the rod in the "jet" changes mixture across the entire operating range.
For emissions purposes, the only way to adjust either of these settings is with a 4-gas analyzer. If emissions are not a concern, you can knock the cover plugs out of the carb airhorn and gain access to these adjustments from outside the carb. You can then set them up for best throttle response and drivability, which will not be best emissions..."
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Yes, but then the amazing Lars sends me a document on how to fix this...and here is the method he suggests - assuming you are a novice in carb rebuilding and adjusting...thank the Corvette gods for Lars!
Alternate “Quickie” Procedure
If you don’t have the tools to perform the measurements described above, and you just want to get the carb “into the ballpark” for some good performance, you can do the following quick verification and setup:
With the airhorn removed off the carb, push the power piston down to the fully seated position with your finger. Observe the relationship between the top “lip” of the plastic retaining ring and the top edge of the power piston cylinder. In its correct position, the power piston cylinder top edge should be about .020” above the top lip of the plastic ring. You can raise or lower the piston from this position ½ turn at a time to fine-tune your idle & cruise mixture (pop the silver plug out of the airhorn to gain access to the adjustment with the airhorn installed – you can turn the screw with a pair of long, thin needlenosed pliers.
I did that numerous times... was able to get the truck runnig well, but it flunked emissions.
Ahh Yes...I see... Well, fortunately for my APT settings, here in Florida we have no emissions...maybe not so fortunate for the air though...
By the way, did you pop the silver plug out of the airhorn so you could adjust the APT while on the car and running? If so, what did you put in place of the plug? A screw? Rubber plug?
Ahh Yes...I see... Well, fortunately for my APT settings, here in Florida we have no emissions...maybe not so fortunate for the air though...
By the way, did you pop the silver plug out of the airhorn so you could adjust the APT while on the car and running? If so, what did you put in place of the plug? A screw? Rubber plug?
Yes... you are lucky in that respect.
This topic is an old one that I've been part of for several years on this board. Since it began Lars has made a lot of progresss in defining the parameters we can all work with... Kudos.
On the plug issue, I removed the top and popped the plug out, then I tapped the hole with a 1/8" pipe tap (thanks Clem for that suggestion). I bought a 1/8" brass slotted (screw type) plug from Lowes and installed it. The trick is to tap the carb only enough so that your plug is semi-tight & flush with the top of the carb to avoid interference issues (which I had on the Silverado). This involves trial & error & patience. I.E.- if you go too far with the tap, a pipe plug will just fall inside the carb when you try to install it.
What is the factory setting for the APT adjustment screw? I have heard 8.5 turns out. This is for a Rochester Q-Jet Model 17059216 with all stock parts. I have no idea where it was when I started...
Thanks!
The total thread length is 8.5 turns. Turning CW lets the needles sit lower in the jets and leans the mixture. Get a piece of tubing and squish it so one end has 2 flat sections to match the brass screw flats. Screw it all the way in / down and then back out 3.5 turns. Drive the car - if it surges under steady cruise at 60 mph, back it out 1/2 turn and repeat cruise test. I fit feels good at 3.5 turns out, try turning it in 1/2 turn at a time and check cruise. I have found that if you can determine where you can just feel lean surge, 1/2 turn out (richer) will be good (having an O2 sensor system really helps).
The total thread length is 8.5 turns. Turning CW lets the needles sit lower in the jets and leans the mixture. Get a piece of tubing and squish it so one end has 2 flat sections to match the brass screw flats. Screw it all the way in / down and then back out 3.5 turns. Drive the car - if it surges under steady cruise at 60 mph, back it out 1/2 turn and repeat cruise test. I fit feels good at 3.5 turns out, try turning it in 1/2 turn at a time and check cruise. I have found that if you can determine where you can just feel lean surge, 1/2 turn out (richer) will be good (having an O2 sensor system really helps).
When you say "lean surge" can you tell me what you mean by that exactly?? I know what "lean" means I just dont know what you mean by surge. Is it obvious when it does it?
The car will suddenly speed up when the throttle is held in the same spot.
I would describe it as a gentle variation in speed, most noticable as an increase, at constant throttle on level road with no wind ..... Also possible to feel slight increase in speed when very slightly let off the throttle after stable cruise. If you want to be sure to feel it, deliberately set the screw in to be lean. then back out to where it is barely noticible, then go 1/2 turn out more.
The service manual recommends you buy a new or professionally rebuilt carb if you mess up the APT.
It requires a lot of specialized equipment to reset the APT once it has been messed with.
I suppose you could guess.... but I tried that on my Silverado Q-Jet and it didn't work too well... ended up replacing it with a Holley 80555-1. Had to replace the computer controlled distributor as well.
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