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I picked up a tach drive HEI for my '68 327. Need to run a switched 12V to the HEI. I've heard of just stripping back the stock coil wire until you find the end of the resistor section. Then you cut off the resistor part and splice in a new piece of plain copper. Is this the best/easiest way or is there anything else you recommend? I put in the MSD hop up kit with 50kv coil and I want to ensure the wire is up to the task.
I would run a dedicated wire to the fuse block. Look for ignition power (IGN) connection. Also for security, you can add a cut-off switch in series to ward off the thieves.
I would run a dedicated wire to the fuse block. Look for ignition power (IGN) connection. Also for security, you can add a cut-off switch in series to ward off the thieves.
Excellent suggestion....now I just need to find a sneaky place to hide a switch. Thanks,
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by big_G
I would run a dedicated wire to the fuse block. Look for ignition power (IGN) connection. Also for security, you can add a cut-off switch in series to ward off the thieves.
I agree with the above (a fused connection is the safe way to go). To avoid some no-start headscratching later though, make sure that the IGN power connection is also powered up during cranking. I ran into this issue on a 60's or 70's car a bunch of years ago. I don't remember the make of the car, but ignition power wasn't fed to all the fuse circuits during cranking.
The pink wire on the ignition switch is the best power source, that's what GM used on HEI cars. Contact MAD, he has a kit with the correct wire and the distributor connectors for about $20. I have converted several points type cars to HEI with no problem. http://www.madelectrical.com/
The pink wire on the ignition switch is the best power source, that's what GM used on HEI cars. Contact MAD, he has a kit with the correct wire and the distributor connectors for about $20. I have converted several points type cars to HEI with no problem. http://www.madelectrical.com/
With the Mad Electrical kit, will I need to pull down the gauges to get to the pink wire or do you tap in somewhere else? I just got the interior back together and really don't want to pull anything down again.
I thought about running some #10 wire fused at the battery terminal to a hidden switch inside somewhere, then on to the HEI. That way, I have lots of uninterrupted power to the dist, and a little bit of extra safety from theft. If I do that, what size fuse should I use? I want enough to power the dist, but not so much it would fry something if it ever somehow shorts.
The first time you forget to cut power to distributor ... and walk away ... you will probably damage the HEI module/coil ... and may be walking again.
good point. I guess I'll go back to a switched location....but I still don't want to pull the dash. I'll see if I can find a suitable spot on the fuse panel.
As I've been looking into changing my 68' non-tilt/tele column for a later model that you can actually buy a blinker part for...
IIt was very easy to locate the wires mentioned above. I also used the same IGN wire to power my new Aeromotive fuel pump. They are a half-moon shaped plug-in connection on the steering column located midway down. Very easy...turn the key on and test for power.
You need a wire that is switched on to 12 volts when the ignition key is turned. Some people have said that the yellow (?) wire going to the windshield wiper motor can be used to power the HEI.
Can someone substantiate this.. or state that this is not correct? Thanks
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by jackson
The first time you forget to cut power to distributor ... and walk away ... you will probably damage the HEI module/coil ... and may be walking again.
Unless I am misunderstanding your comments here, I respectfully disagree with both. If you don't cut off power to the HEI a carbureted engine will keep running (assuming the coil C+ itself is not shut off in some sort of way). If you somehow shut off power only to the coil (to kill the engine), the HEI module should still be fine. The power dissipation in this non-normal mode is minimal compared to its normal power dissipation when it is controlling the coil primary current.
Unless I am misunderstanding your comments here, I respectfully disagree with both. If you don't cut off power to the HEI a carbureted engine will keep running (assuming the coil C+ itself is not shut off in some sort of way). If you somehow shut off power only to the coil (to kill the engine), the HEI module should still be fine. The power dissipation in this non-normal mode is minimal compared to its normal power dissipation when it is controlling the coil primary current.
Under "normal" conditions ... you're "usually" right ... BUT here's where I respectfully disagree ... let's imagine you get in car w/ HEI wired direct to battery main through an anti-theft switch ... and power up with INTENT to start ... BUT just before you twist the starter key ... you realize your neighbor is flagging you down to tell you about his kid's baseball win... you get out of car and then get sidetracked on something else ... all the while the ignition is HOT because you forgot to power down.
It is not uncommon for production HEI cars to have ignition damaged because the driver left the key in "ON" position ... to power up the cig lighter ... or didn't use the "ACC" for radio ... it does happen.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by jackson
Under "normal" conditions ... you're "usually" right ... BUT here's where I respectfully disagree ... let's imagine you get in car w/ HEI wired direct to battery main through an anti-theft switch ... and power up with INTENT to start ... BUT just before you twist the starter key ... you realize your neighbor is flagging you down to tell you about his kid's baseball win... you get out of car and then get sidetracked on something else ... all the while the ignition is HOT because you forgot to power down.
It is not uncommon for production HEI cars to have ignition damaged because the driver left the key in "ON" position ... to power up the cig lighter ... or didn't use the "ACC" for radio ... it does happen.
Sorry, don't wish to appear confrontational here, but that doesn't make any sense. Powered up and at zero RPM, the HEI module is only dissipating milliwatts of power, rather than several watts when it is switching 5-6 amps of primary current. Hi RPM is always harder on an ignition system than zero rpm (duty cycle and average power dissipation increases with RPM). If key on and zero RPM was so destructive to the HEI module it would have never made it out of the design validation tests.
You all make great points. I gutted the dist and put in the MSD hop up kit (coil, rotor, Hi-perf module, cap) so I may just call MSD tech support tomorrow to see how they recommend wiring it. I suspect this will not be the first time they've been asked this question. I'll post their answer.
I'd still like to wire it directly because coming up with a 12V source which which is on during cranking and also on when the key goes to run takes me back to simply cutting out the resistor wire and putting in plain copper. I can do this, but I'm just not convinced of the current carrying capacity of that circuit and want to ensure the hi-perf coil and module have plenty of juice.
I talked with an MSD tech this morning and he had a great suggestion. You can use the stock resistive wire to pick a high current relay. You wire the original resistive wire to the + side of the relay coil and then put my security switch on the ground side. This way, you can turn off the switch and the relay will never pick, keeping the car from starting and providing that little extra security I was looking for. Then I can run my HEI current carrying wire directly from a fused link at the battery to the relay contact points, then on to the HEI distributor. MSD makes a 30 amp relay (p/n 8861) specifically for this application, or he said any of the quality (Bosch or others) relays which are available for headlight control at Napa/Autozone will work as long as they are capable of at least 30 amps.
This gives the best of all worlds. Uses the stock wiring to trigger the ignition, gives a point to insert the security switch, and provides a high current path to satisfy the HEI.
I think I've got a plan! Thanks again for all the input.