I am seriously about to sell this stupid car. My level of frustration right now knows no bounds.

After getting stranded last week due to a points issue, I decided to get the Crane XR-i electronic points replacement. Aside from the fact that the hex screws that came with the kit did not fit any hex (standard or metric) that I could find in the auto store, the install went pretty well.

Started the car and the idle was really high and I couldnt get it to kick down. Decided to take it around the block to warm it up. Everything was fine.

Brought it home.

Lowered the idle setting.

Set the timing.

Buttoned everything up.

Got in the car to take her for a spin and I couldnt put it in gear. The shifter is stuck in the neutral area between 1st and 2nd. I can move the shifter to R, but that doesnt actually put it in gear (4sp, by the way).

If I let out on the clutch, the car does not move, but dies as if it is being bogged down.

Had the clutch, 4sp oil, pinion seal replaced 2 weeks ago.

2 questions:

1) Any idea what this problem is?
2) Why does my car hate me so much?

I am going to have a few beers and cry.

 

Check the linkage on the side of the trans. It may have come loose or out of adjustment. Sounds like something simple.

 

you have to adjust the linkeage...really simple. Remove the linkeage from the tranny arms in neutral. Next, the shifter has a hole, maybe could be a 1/4" or 5/16", a drill bit will fit very snuggly in that hole...that is a lock to keep the shifter arms from moving. Now you can adjust your linkeage. Remember, keep the tranny arms in neutral.

My tranny would hang up....when I made this adjustment, all was and still is well.

 

You will have to bear with me since I am kinda transmission stupid. I dont know that I understand what the difference between the tranny arms and the linkage is. What am I actually adjusting?

Thanks for the help. I may keep her after all...

 

You are adjusting the linkage. The tranny arms are the arms that extend from the trans to the linkage. They are just flat pieces of steel. The linkage has the adjustment on it.

 

I am still a little confused. Probably not phrasing the question correctly. I dont understand what the end goal of the linkage adjustement is. Is it adjusting the linkage so that it engages the shifter arms and places the trans in gear? What does it mean to be out of adjustment and what changes when it is correct?

Sorry to be a pain about this and I am sure it will make more sense when I get under the car.

Thanks again for the help.

 

Once you crawl under the car and look at the transmission arms and the shifter linkeage, it will all come together...I suggest you go to your local library and look at the GM service manual, the procedure is outlined.

Seriously, it is not a very difficult procedure.

you lock the shifter arms with the drill bit inserted in the hole, the transmission arms are in neutral, next adjust the linkeage so that it fits into the transmission arms....

As I said above, once you get under the car and look, it will be obvious what you have to do.

Good luck.

 

I actually have one and have read the procedure a few times. Kinda sounds like greek to me since I dont know what the parts are to start off with. But, having read it, hopefully things will make sense when I get under there.

Thanks for walking me through it. This car has caused me to go through a self taught (and forum guided) crash course in auto mechanics.

 

I agree, look over the linkage. Now getting up under there without a lift is a pain but doable. Use jack stands for safety. There are 3 levers or arms on the side of the tranny where the shifter connects. The forward 2 are the 4-3 and 2-1 shifters, the last one, kind of offset, is the reverse lever. If in neutral the 1-2 and 3-4 should be at 12 o'clock, if anyone of them is forward or back then they are engaged or partially engaged. Try and move them to the neutral position if not.

Sounds like you are new to corvettes? if so welcome you'll either love or hate them in short order. Keep in mind these car weren't a practical car even when new. The wiper and headlight systems never worked that good, they leak rain inside, the windshield metal and frame rots,there's no room, they eat gas, etc, etc ,etc. I've had most of the problems with them over the past 30 years, still have them. Cursing, punching kicking, even walking across them and still I work on them. Learn to walk away from it or sell it, otherwise you'll go crazy and or broke very quickly. Don't get caught up in all the new fangled hot rod parts on the market if you only want a street car. The stock setups in most cases work the best. BTW, I missed the points problem, but I use them over any of the aftermarket systems in my cars. I love points and haven't been stranded by them yet.

Good luck and don't give up yet. Also see if there is a vette club in your area to help you. I ran technical classes the past few years on just type of thing.

 

Ah, I see. The problem is more than one gear is partially engaged, causing it to bind up. So, the adjustment process it to ensure everything is in neutral when it is supposed to be, right?

Thanks for the welcome. I entered the world of vette ownership in early December. I previously had a 72 Nova, which I loved, but there was so much I wanted to change (engine, disc brakes, manual trans, convert) I figured I might as well get a car that had all those things to start off with. Started reserching and fell in love with the specifics of the early C3s. When I found one in my price range, I jumped on it. I can tell the guy I bought it from was not mechanically inclined (he took it to the shop to have a rubber gas line replaced) and he rarely drove it. So, I have been going through the process of getting it back into shape as it is my daily driver. It has been one problem after another, but I keep hoping I will get to the point in which I am not worrying about it stranding me.

The vette club is a really good idea. Might look into that.

Thanks again!