Wheel Stud Upgrades
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Batsy74
I wanted to upgrade my wheel studs from 7/16 to ½ inch and I didn’t want to remove the spindles from the car. I was using a stud from Morosso with a .615 knurl and the stock stud holes need to be drilled out.
With a hand drill there is no way of keeping the new holes square with the flange so I made a fixture .
It was made from a piece of 1 inch diameter by about 3 inch long round stock and a piece of 1 ½ by ¼ inch by 3 inch flat stock. The 2 pieces are welded together.
After welding the two pieces are put in a lathe and the hole is drilled in the round and flat stock and then the flat stock is faced off to the hole and bottom of the fixture is at right angles to each other.
A locater pin is also required so the fixture can be accurately place over the hole.
For a locater I turned a piece of ¾ inch round stock down to fit inside the fixture and a smaller end that fits in the existing hole in the spindle after the stud is punched out.
I do NOT run dust shields. On the rear on the drivers side at the 9 oclock position a stud can be driven out, the fixture clamped over the hole with a pair of c clamps, a hand drill used the drill the new hole and a full 3 inch long x ½ inch morosso stud installed. There is room without the dust shield.
ON the passengers side it is at 3 oclock.
If the stud has a .615 knurl and that is common you have a choice of a 19/32 drill or .594 diameter hole or a 39/64th or .609 hole. I would try the .594 hole first and see if a stud would pull in. If not go for the 39/64 hole and a .006 press fit.
I don’t remember which I used since I have all the drills in the shop and don’t remember which I used.
Place the locater pin in the fixture, insert the small end of the locater in the existing hole and using clamps secure the fixture to the hub, remove the locater and drill with a hand drill.
Both of the above drill bits will work.
Good luck
This is a picture of the fixture
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
You knock the old stud out, put the pin in the fixture and put that in the old hole. With a pair of vise grips hold the fixture to the hub and drill away. The fixture holds the exact center and at the same time holds the drill bit square to the flange.
You can not just use a hand drill and no fixture. The hole will wonder off square.
I also don't believe in lug nuts that are only threaded part way. I use nothing but completely threaded all the way through lug nuts. They have twice the amount of holding thread and no chance of the head snapping off.
My studs are 1/2 x 3 inches long and the end of the studs passes all the way through and completely threaded stud.
I torque to 85 foot pounds,
You can not just use a hand drill and no fixture. The hole will wonder off square.
I also don't believe in lug nuts that are only threaded part way. I use nothing but completely threaded all the way through lug nuts. They have twice the amount of holding thread and no chance of the head snapping off.
My studs are 1/2 x 3 inches long and the end of the studs passes all the way through and completely threaded stud.
I torque to 85 foot pounds,
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
Originally Posted by turtlevette
Sounds like too much trouble and a lot of risk to mess it up. If things are off just a few thousands you could have fitment problems. If not using hub centric wheels you will have an uncorrectable out of round situation.
What about high strengh studs that are direct replacement? Does ARP have anything less than a .480 knurl?
What about high strengh studs that are direct replacement? Does ARP have anything less than a .480 knurl?
You hammer out the old stud, then you tap the guide pin into the hole, it's a tight fit. Then you slide the fixture over it, clamp it doen and then remove the guide pin. That way the fixture is eprfectly centered and the fixture tiself is perfectly perpendicular because the base was machined in a lathe. Drill out the old hole, remove the fixture and install the stud. There's no way the stud position will change.
it's just as easy as slip fitting wheel bearings
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
it's absolutely fool proof, even you can do it
You hammer out the old stud, then you tap the guide pin into the hole, it's a tight fit. Then you slide the fixture over it, clamp it doen and then remove the guide pin. That way the fixture is eprfectly centered and the fixture tiself is perfectly perpendicular because the base was machined in a lathe. Drill out the old hole, remove the fixture and install the stud. There's no way the stud position will change.
it's just as easy as slip fitting wheel bearings
You hammer out the old stud, then you tap the guide pin into the hole, it's a tight fit. Then you slide the fixture over it, clamp it doen and then remove the guide pin. That way the fixture is eprfectly centered and the fixture tiself is perfectly perpendicular because the base was machined in a lathe. Drill out the old hole, remove the fixture and install the stud. There's no way the stud position will change.
it's just as easy as slip fitting wheel bearings
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 4
St. Jude Donor '03,'11
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
it's absolutely fool proof, even you can do it
Last edited by turtlevette; Apr 10, 2006 at 12:35 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 4
St. Jude Donor '03,'11
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Dude, I was just making a little fun man. The fixture aligns your drill, how can you mess that up?
Making fun? Yes i know, me too. But i am serious about you being the corvette god of the east!
I have a pretty hard shell and think its funny trading jabs. You won't upset me but i do realize i **** you off sometimes
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
no, why would you want to stick with those short 7/16 studs. There's a reason why all C4s have 1/2" studs.
Oh yes, I can have a pretty short fuse LOL but you have the tact of a moab sometimes
When it comes to Corvettes here I'm pretty much a loner, I don't mingle a lot w/ other corvette owners..I like to keep to myself. Only a handful of people have seen the stuff I'm workig on IRL. I value my privacy. I enjoy tinkering all by myself without being disturbed
Oh yes, I can have a pretty short fuse LOL but you have the tact of a moab sometimes
When it comes to Corvettes here I'm pretty much a loner, I don't mingle a lot w/ other corvette owners..I like to keep to myself. Only a handful of people have seen the stuff I'm workig on IRL. I value my privacy. I enjoy tinkering all by myself without being disturbed
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
When it comes to Corvettes here I'm pretty much a loner, I don't mingle a lot w/ other corvette owners..I like to keep to myself. Only a handful of people have seen the stuff I'm workig on IRL. I value my privacy. I enjoy tinkering all by myself without being disturbed
While I still like to tinker alone in the shop I look forward to the times when the guys come over and we tinker together.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
Oh, I met a bunch of people but most corvette people here aren't into mods, DIY or things like that. I enjoy the racer crowd much more, there's people building all kinds of cool drag cars and hot rods ...just not corvette people.
I'm sure tinkering in your shop is fun
I'm sure tinkering in your shop is fun
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
I have one...how much money do you have 
