Wheel Stud Upgrades
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Dragging this one back out of the past...
My Moroso studs came in today from Summit. These things are freakishly long, and I'm afraid that they won't fit under the caps for my aluminum AR wheels. Can I safely cut them down? My 19/32 drill bit will be in tomorrow. Bloody expensive thing...
My Moroso studs came in today from Summit. These things are freakishly long, and I'm afraid that they won't fit under the caps for my aluminum AR wheels. Can I safely cut them down? My 19/32 drill bit will be in tomorrow. Bloody expensive thing...
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Dragging this one back out of the past...
My Moroso studs came in today from Summit. These things are freakishly long, and I'm afraid that they won't fit under the caps for my aluminum AR wheels. Can I safely cut them down? My 19/32 drill bit will be in tomorrow. Bloody expensive thing...
My Moroso studs came in today from Summit. These things are freakishly long, and I'm afraid that they won't fit under the caps for my aluminum AR wheels. Can I safely cut them down? My 19/32 drill bit will be in tomorrow. Bloody expensive thing...
I used 3 inch long studs and nuts taped all the way through. If you cut a stock nut is half you will find it is really not a great design.
Nuts that are taped all the way through are far far strong and to me alot safer. The thead should pass all the way through the nut.
Don't cut them and willout the backing plate on it is easy to drill and remove and install the new studs on the car. If the backing plate is still on you will have to trim it in the 9 oclock position on the drivers side and 3 on the passengers side.
It is NOT difficult to upgrade to 1/2 by 3 studs. Do not cut anything.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
The drill bit. I had to order it through the local Grainger outlet.
Once I have bit in hand, I'll see how the studs fit with my wheels. I'm still afraid that I'm going to have to shorten them a bit. The 3" studs are a LOT longer than the stockers.
Once I have bit in hand, I'll see how the studs fit with my wheels. I'm still afraid that I'm going to have to shorten them a bit. The 3" studs are a LOT longer than the stockers.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 345
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From: Dunbarton NH
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
The drill bit. I had to order it through the local Grainger outlet.
Once I have bit in hand, I'll see how the studs fit with my wheels. I'm still afraid that I'm going to have to shorten them a bit. The 3" studs are a LOT longer than the stockers.
Once I have bit in hand, I'll see how the studs fit with my wheels. I'm still afraid that I'm going to have to shorten them a bit. The 3" studs are a LOT longer than the stockers.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Any of you guys have an idea of where I can get a good steel-drilling 19/32" bit with a 1/2" shank? The one Grainger sold me has to go back - it's a straight-shank bit, and won't fit in any drill I have. Arrgh... 
Wheels:
I don't have a pic with the caps off.
Wheels:
I don't have a pic with the caps off.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
From: Dunbarton NH
When I asked Norval the same question he said
"I don't know what you have available but here we have CN Weber a large supply house and you can buy any apprentice drill bit up to 1 inch for about $8.00
You will have to check around with a machine supply shop
Norval"
Did you explain the problem to Grainger and see if the had one that would work?
The studs need to fit under the wheel caps. I personally don't see a reason why you couldn,t shorten the studs... but I would wait for a response from the resident forum experts... (Perhaps start a new thread to get some attention to the subject, because I find the older threads get looked over.)
"I don't know what you have available but here we have CN Weber a large supply house and you can buy any apprentice drill bit up to 1 inch for about $8.00
You will have to check around with a machine supply shop
Norval"
Did you explain the problem to Grainger and see if the had one that would work?
The studs need to fit under the wheel caps. I personally don't see a reason why you couldn,t shorten the studs... but I would wait for a response from the resident forum experts... (Perhaps start a new thread to get some attention to the subject, because I find the older threads get looked over.)
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
The bit I got was the only one Grainger listed in that size. It's going back on Monday. I found a machine shop supply store with an eBay store that had 1/2" shank 19/32" cobalt drill bits, both USA made and import. I ordered one of each. Total for those two bits with shipping was less than the one Grainger bit.
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Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
OK, drill bits are here, but I probably won't get to mess with this until early next week...but I thought of another question. What size drill bit do you need to use on the stud openings in the brake rotors? 1/2"?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
The bit I got was the only one Grainger listed in that size. It's going back on Monday. I found a machine shop supply store with an eBay store that had 1/2" shank 19/32" cobalt drill bits, both USA made and import. I ordered one of each. Total for those two bits with shipping was less than the one Grainger bit.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by MotorHead
True cobalt bits will go thru anything, best bits you can buy. I have a question though, are you snapping off wheel studs or running slicks and worried about breaking studs ? THere are many things on my Vette I would beef up before wheel studs
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
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From: Orange Park Florida
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
no, why would you want to stick with those short 7/16 studs. There's a reason why all C4s have 1/2" studs.
Oh yes, I can have a pretty short fuse LOL but you have the tact of a moab sometimes
When it comes to Corvettes here I'm pretty much a loner, I don't mingle a lot w/ other corvette owners..I like to keep to myself. Only a handful of people have seen the stuff I'm workig on IRL. I value my privacy. I enjoy tinkering all by myself without being disturbed
Oh yes, I can have a pretty short fuse LOL but you have the tact of a moab sometimes
When it comes to Corvettes here I'm pretty much a loner, I don't mingle a lot w/ other corvette owners..I like to keep to myself. Only a handful of people have seen the stuff I'm workig on IRL. I value my privacy. I enjoy tinkering all by myself without being disturbed
comes to tech decisions it's usually me that figgers it out....sometimes at great consternation too....
GENE
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
From: Dunbarton NH
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Still trying to figure out what drill bit to use on the stud holes in the rotors...
I would use the 19/32 bit... let the longer knurls help hold the rotors on.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Any of you guys have an idea of where I can get a good steel-drilling 19/32" bit with a 1/2" shank? The one Grainger sold me has to go back - it's a straight-shank bit, and won't fit in any drill I have. Arrgh...
.
.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by Batsy74
I would use the 19/32 bit... let the longer knurls help hold the rotors on.