-sorry to hear that some of you had a bad experience with the Pertronix-ignitor electronic-module, have used their ingenious standard (original) version on my LotusEsprit and obtained quicker-starting, steadier-idle, and consistant up to 7,000-rpm!! Installation is a slam-dunk, and no black-box external of the distributor; --but sure, i naturally do keep a set of points in my Glove-box! In fact i just bought another unit for my early-C3 on Ebay for $64(to your door!); --and these are Factory-guaranteed for 30-months (here's the Link): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pertr...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Ummm, no it's not. You took out a set of old worn points and condenser and installed the brand new conversion kit.

Any 'improvement' was probably due to getting rid of old worn out parts, not converting to something better.

 

I installed one of the original Ignitors and ran it for a few years. It ran great but then all of a sudden the engine woul try to cut out on the highway. Rather than go with another Pertronix unit I went with the Crane XR1 conversion. It's much easier to install and doesn't require taking the distributor apart and also includes a rev limiter (which I haven't hit, thank you ). I've had it in the car for around 2 years now and all seems well. So if your set on going with an electronic conversion take a look at Crane. I'm glad I did.

 

Thanks for all of your input, I will stick with points and condensor, I like the old lost art, and besides, my car was made for it. I hate to change anything that my car was not made for, ie., putting an after market Big block 502 motor in it and junking the orginal motor for better performance...Hmmmm, seems like a good idea, if you dont like original and like more performance, but for someone like me, its a no go....petronix, crane, or mallary might work better in the way of maintenance free work on the distributor, but I already have that in my 2000 silverado. I havent touched that thing in the 6 yrs I owned it, except oil, transmission and other fluid changes. I love being a handyman, and like to admire the work I did on something, after it is done. Not everyone is like that, so I say, to each his own. You guys are all great with the examples given, but I like the motto: "live to ride, ride to live" (and that comes with the occasional break downs!!)

Johnny B

 

The distributor drive gear has a "dimple" cast into it near the roll pin hole. This dimple will point the same direction as the firing tab on the rotor if the gear is clocked correctly. If the gear is rotated 180 degrees, the difference in roll pin clocking is 1/2 tooth, but when you add the difference between +1/2 tooth for the 0-degree position and -1/2 tooth for the 180 position, the total difference in installed distributor position becomes 1 tooth.

Although the clocking is slight, it is enough that you cannot set the timing correctly if you have the distributor shielding installed or if you have a C2 with the hi performance aluminum intake manifold: The distrubutor will either hit the shielding or hit the back of the manifold intake runner before you can obtain proper timing spec. For this reason, it is important to install it the "right" way on certain cars, and you can, in fact, install it "wrong" and not be able to get the engine timed.

 

Mike Ward, no offense but I used to be really **** about timing my vehicle and replaced the points and condenser as a maintenance item well before it was necessary, especially based on the number of miles my weekend driver sees in a year. Remember, I ran points for 17 years, I think I can tell the difference. Maybe other people didn't or don't have the same experience with these electronic conversions as me but my experience has been great and it seems that there has been a lot issues with Pertronix but I haven't seen too many issues with the Mallory Unilite (it's not to say there has been 100% satisfaction though). Anyway, back to my point (no pun intended), the points and condenser that were removed were probably in better than average condition based on my habits and the Mallory Unilite conversion has run flawlessly for 5 years with no maintenance. Remember, I'm not making any horsepower claims, etc., my car does idle better, and starts easier and from a performance perspective probably maintains the car at an equal level as a brand new set of points and a condenser (which start detiorating right away) with no maintenance and no additional cost.

I respect the views of others who want to stay with points, and in a way I miss tinkering with the dwell meter, etc. but not enough to go back.

 

That's nice. Now explain WHY it makes a difference - and show your work.

 

I can't explain it to a mathematical certainity nor explain the scientific theory behind it as I am not an electrical engineer. I understand the concept and the basic difference between the points and the Mallory Unilite. As I understand it, the points fire the coil via the completion of an electrical connection through the contact points utilizing the distributor cam underneath the base plate of the distributor. The Mallory Unilite completes the electrical connection through the interruption of an optical beam. Those are the basic differences. I figure the Mallory Unilite is more precise and has no parts that wear like the rubbing block or contacts themselves. Like I said I figure the Mallory Unilite keeps the car running as good as brand new points without the other downsides.

Maybe the precision of the optical sensor allows the engine to idle and start better, I really don't know and like I said I am not a EE. There may be someone on the Forum that can provide you with the proof (and with the apparent mathematical certainty) you desire, but probably not many. Just because it came from the factory with points doesn't mean it was better, in fact in 1968 (the year of my car) tranistorized, pointless ignition was offered as an option and was considered an upgrade. If electronic ignition weren't better, cheaper and lower maintenance all of our cars built today would still be using points.

Once again, I must emphasize, I am not making horsepower claims etc. just that the car starts and idles better and is maintenace free with respect to setting dwell, etc.

 

The plugs actually fire by the opening of the points, not the closing. The idea is to collapse the magnetic field in the primary winding of the coil, inducing a high voltage potential in the secondary winding.

Most probably the reason you are seeing a steadier idle is that many high mileage distributors have a certain amount of wear on the upper and lower bushing that support the distributor shaft. This allows lateral movement of the shaft which can vary the dwell angle and ignition timing. Not too noticeable at higher engine speeds, but significant at idle speeds. It would be similar to manually moving your timing back and forth by turning the distributor housing.

Probably your electronic trigger unit is not bothered by the lateral wobbling of the shaft.

 

Here is the problem referred to by Lars. With the dimple 180* out I was getting frustrated because the vacuum canister was hitting the intake runner before I could get the setting I wanted.

Before:



After moving the distributor gear around 180* here is the canister with the timing correctly set. The rule of thumb I picked up at that time was that the canister spout should point roughly at the rear/top valve cover bolt.



On the Pertronix, I have used one for three years with no problems. But given threads of this type in the past I carry a set of points and condensor in the glovebox as insurance.

 

I have been using Crane XRi conversion without any issues. I did not want to change points or set dwell every year....

For $65, it's a good part....IMO

 

Paul -
If I remember right, weren't you hitting the manifiold with the PerTronix installed, and then rotated the gear to the "wrong" position to get the timing adjustment needed?
Either way, your photo does show how a C2 with the gear in the wrong clocking makes it impossible to set the timing right.
Lars

 

Lars,
No, the problem was the dimple in the wrong direction. That was two summers ago and I had just purchased the Sears advance timing light to replace my antique static light. I was following your timing paper and to get full-in advance was just impossible as the canister hit the runner as shown. So I pulled the distributor and voila the dimple was south rather than north. My 1967 has run wonderfully ever since.

So in all honesty no blame can be placed on the Pertronix. I do have a tach-drive distributor in the basement that I rebuilt with your "kit" and recommended Echlin parts and may give it a try this summer. But I tend to subscribe to the axiom "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." The basement unit does give me some comfort as backup insurance.

Hope this finds you well! And your tours of 2006 will be great successes, as usual!

 

Key words you said Paul, 'if it aint broke, dont fix it'------Thats why I am going to stick with points and condensor setup (that is, as long as auto parts stores will sell them)

Johnny B

 

I have had a Per Tronix installed for five years, no problems what so ever. I think the key is how worn are it internal parts of the distributor.

 

Lars,
At what rpms does this "frequent high-rpm misfire" occur? I have had a misfire the dyno guy attributed to valve bounce.