Good news: My trailing arms and strut rods are in good shape!!!!!!!
Bad news: I've got about 1/16" play in my side yokes. That translates into about 1/2" camber change at the top of the wheel!
Anyone reccomend a source for new yokes?
Also...................
Can anyone tell me this is a 20 minute job to change these and that you dont have to drop the dif?

 

I am not sure that would cause 1/2". You may want to look further if you have than much camber change...strud rod bushings?

I think below .025 of yoke play is acceptable. But Gary / gtr1999 is our forum expert on diff's. You may way to PM him...he can also supply quality parts.

 

I could tell you that but I'd be lying to you.

 

I guess you could try changing them with the diff still bolted to the car but... if these are original side yokes or have seen many miles then likely case is the ends have mushroomed somewhat. If so, you will have to work to get them out and will likely want to have the diff open to see what is happening. Some of the mushroomed metal can and will break off and you really don't want that floating aound in the diff. If replacing them there are aftermarket yokes with hardened ends to prevent the mushrooming. Good luck.

 

I just did this.

If you want to do it right, you will want it removed to flush debris out.
If you try to spray it while on the car, you will force debris in the insides of everything.
Tape the ujoints if you want to re-use them, I put new.



Mine were mushroomed.
Both had to be grinded to be removed.
Then disassembled.
I had to flush debris out.
Reassembled.

I have .005 per side with new stubs.

I have new graphite poly bushings going in at the same time...too easy.

Except for; breaking your back lifting, cleaning and flushing manually, it was a fun job under the carport.


YMMV

GL


Jim

 

It took me two to three hours to get the half shafts,strut rods,rear leaf spring,differential and differential support out. It took another week of head scratching to decide about how far to dive into the differential. I ended up just replacing the side yokes with reconditioned ones and installed new yoke bearings and seals. I had .080 and .135 endplay and now have .030. I was hoping for better.

 

You have play because of worn posi clutches and possibly some wear on the center pin.

I did mine last year (thanks Trackdogg2 for helping me out!) and have .010. New side yokes, new posi clutches. Reused the center pin.

 

Zwede,
The center pin mic'd up good. The holes in the carrier for the pin were good too.I guess that means the wear is in the clutches. gtr1999 recommended I go through the whole unit and change out the 3.08's. Don't have the funds for that just now. So I have to settle for .030.

 

Monza: .030 is a little more than optimal but it won't really give you any problems.

 

Your clutch's are likely worn...which moves the side gears in..which creates more end play.

 

Yep, worn clutches is the most likely cause. The other problem that causes is too much spider gear play. This will slam the spiders if you get on it and increases the risk of broken spiders plus it also tends to "snap" the rear which can get hairy in a turn.

But that said, you have about 20 thou too much play which is not great, but I also don't think it's horrible.

 

it's a 20 minute job..... with the differential out. Forget about trying it in the car, you have to remove the rear cover. That's possible but a PITA because you have to support the diff as the cover supports the whole thing in the car.

.062" is more then I like but if you're planning on any diff work in the future you can wait a little. The problem is you're past the case hardening of the yoke so it will grind against the center pin and wear while you drive the car. The metal doesn't just evaporate but ends up in the oil and the bearings,races,gears. You might be ok to just replace them but as "Monza" knows just replacing them with a stock posi setup will not get you the best results.

If you're going to do the work then maybe you don't mind doing it again in the future if needed. If you're paying a shop to remove or replace the unit then it gets very expensive to only do yokes. Bottom line is you have to decide what you want to do.

I have a running post with plenty of pictures. If you haven't seen it then it shouldn't be hard to find. I update it as I go from one diff to another that might be a little different.

As the other guys said, the clutches will have an impact on the outcome. "Monza's" stock setup is sloppy maybe by worn clutches but more likely sloppy assembly procedures from day 1. Using those 4 stock springs and plates is not how I do them. The window of tolerence is much wider with this setup and I no longer rebuild using this procedure,unless someone really wants it?? It's a waste of time in my opinion and puts more stess on the clutches and will almost always develop posi hammer in time. I'll say the same about using fiber clutches or the crappy stock snowflakes.I pulled the solid steels out of my 69 5 years ago and mic'd them up. I reused them as a test on my car only I shimmed them. They were worn maybe .001-.002 but still had a diamond pattern to them. They locked up everytime I dropped the clutch. For the cost of good clutches ($125$170) I don't think it's worth the time not using new ones in a rebuild unless money is the major concern. I have shim kits setup just for reusing good clutches if needed.

The last 3 posi's I tuned had .002-.004" end-play in each yoke. I used the rebuilt yokes too.

Good luck, if it were me I'd go through it now and be driving in the warm weather.

 

Thanks all.
gtr, saw your thread on rebuilding. If it's got to come out, there's no point in not going through the whole thing.
Gary