Argh! Broken Rear Spring Bolts
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Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2006
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Argh! Broken Rear Spring Bolts
First I had to change the intake manifold after snapping the thermostat housing bolts. Now I snapped all three rear spring bolts. 
Actually I only snapped two. The other one was already snapped...which is why I was trying to remove the other two.
For those of you turning wrenches on your cars...use anti-seize on the threads of a steel bolt turned into aluminum.
I do have access to a rear end out of an '81. Or I suppose I could take the original to a machine shop.
Any suggestions???
Actually I only snapped two. The other one was already snapped...which is why I was trying to remove the other two. For those of you turning wrenches on your cars...use anti-seize on the threads of a steel bolt turned into aluminum.
I do have access to a rear end out of an '81. Or I suppose I could take the original to a machine shop.
Any suggestions???
Just another Corvette guy
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,518
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From: Palm Springs, CA.
Sorry Bro, I'm just goofin' with you. I just pictured you about 6 foot 5, 280 lbs with a 4 foot breaker bar underneath your car just a-reefin' them bolts the wrong direction 
Been there buddy
Been there buddy
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Tallmadge Ohio
C3 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
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Oldtimer
When you have bolts that are hard to break loose use a impact gun instead of a breaker bar. The ratcheting effect of the impact gun will sometimes break them loose without shearing the bolt. Chuck
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From: ♫ ♪ ♫♫ ♪ ♫ ♪♪ ♫
Originally Posted by chucks
When you have bolts that are hard to break loose use a impact gun instead of a breaker bar. The ratcheting effect of the impact gun will sometimes break them loose without shearing the bolt. Chuck
...the deal with steel bolts on aluminum is always a head-ache without a type of anti-sieze compound...and has been for years.
When aluminum parts first started showing up consistantly on the American car market, (around the 80's) breaking soft steel bolts in aluminum was a very common problem...from under the hood, to other components, impact wrench or not.
Then came harder steel bolts on aluminum.
Hence the invention of the heli-coil (and for other reasons of course).
Use of heat was an option; but would also distort or ruin the aluminum if it was done wrong, and even that sometimes didnt help.
Anti-sieze was the only answer (unless a person routinely loosens and retightens their bolts and nuts)...and is still the only approach that corrects this, not to mention; anti-sieze does wonders for steel-on-steel applications.
It is, and will always be a PITA unless anti-sieze is used.
G/L
Jim
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Thread Starter
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I did turn it counter-clockwise...uh oh, I was upside down though!! 
I've snapped thermostat housing bolts and then rear spring bolts. Any suggestions for more bolts I can snap?
The good news is I have an option. All three bolt ends are in the cover assembly so that's all I'd have to replace. I do have one readily available.
But I think the driver side yoke seal is leaking. And while I'm at it I might as well change the U-joints.
Anybody have any suggestions of who can change the seals (without costing an arm and a leg) in the Phoenix area, especially the East Valley?
I've snapped thermostat housing bolts and then rear spring bolts. Any suggestions for more bolts I can snap?
The good news is I have an option. All three bolt ends are in the cover assembly so that's all I'd have to replace. I do have one readily available.
But I think the driver side yoke seal is leaking. And while I'm at it I might as well change the U-joints.
Anybody have any suggestions of who can change the seals (without costing an arm and a leg) in the Phoenix area, especially the East Valley?
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,496
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From: Lafayette Louisiana
How many miles do you think are on the differential? The reason I ask is if yours is like mine 100k, you may be in for more than a reseal. I think I am going with a rebuilt unit. If it is a low mileage car and has been sitting for a period of time then the seals may be your only problem.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,050
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From: Wichita KS
Originally Posted by James.70
I would take it to a machine shop and try to save it like you said, probably save some time and headache.
When I purchased my 1980 one of the rear spring bolts was broken off. I took it to a machine shop where they removed the broken bolt and did a heli-coil thread replacement.
REMOVAL WILL BE A LOT EASIER FOR A MACHINE SHOP IF YOU DON'T TRY TO REMOVE THE BOLT WITH AN EASY OUT.
Pretty quick repair. They will most likely want you to drain the differential.
Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kevinator80
How many miles do you think are on the differential? The reason I ask is if yours is like mine 100k, you may be in for more than a reseal. I think I am going with a rebuilt unit. If it is a low mileage car and has been sitting for a period of time then the seals may be your only problem.
One of the reasons I'd like a professional change the seals is to have him check the guts.
Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mapman
When I purchased my 1980 one of the rear spring bolts was broken off. I took it to a machine shop where they removed the broken bolt and did a heli-coil thread replacement.
REMOVAL WILL BE A LOT EASIER FOR A MACHINE SHOP IF YOU DON'T TRY TO REMOVE THE BOLT WITH AN EASY OUT.
Pretty quick repair. They will most likely want you to drain the differential.
REMOVAL WILL BE A LOT EASIER FOR A MACHINE SHOP IF YOU DON'T TRY TO REMOVE THE BOLT WITH AN EASY OUT.
Pretty quick repair. They will most likely want you to drain the differential.
I was going to change the gear oil anyway. Going to give Royal Purple a try.
Intermediate
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Not help with your current situation, but My best friend when removing nuts, bolts or other fastners that have not been removed in a long time is the time tested propane torch. keep it handy. I always hit fastners with a little heat, it sure makes them alot easier to brake loose. Hot enough to expand things yet does not distort or effect temper. Just make sure you dont burn up something close by like I have..
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,431
Likes: 52
From: Florida
Originally Posted by PairOf80s
I did turn it counter-clockwise...uh oh, I was upside down though!!
I've snapped thermostat housing bolts and then rear spring bolts. Any suggestions for more bolts I can snap?
The good news is I have an option. All three bolt ends are in the cover assembly so that's all I'd have to replace. I do have one readily available.
But I think the driver side yoke seal is leaking. And while I'm at it I might as well change the U-joints.
Anybody have any suggestions of who can change the seals (without costing an arm and a leg) in the Phoenix area, especially the East Valley?
I've snapped thermostat housing bolts and then rear spring bolts. Any suggestions for more bolts I can snap?
The good news is I have an option. All three bolt ends are in the cover assembly so that's all I'd have to replace. I do have one readily available.
But I think the driver side yoke seal is leaking. And while I'm at it I might as well change the U-joints.
Anybody have any suggestions of who can change the seals (without costing an arm and a leg) in the Phoenix area, especially the East Valley?
That part of your post sounds familiar to a lot of us I'm sure
gets me in trouble every time $$$$$$$ 
ez outs will prob work with PB pen. oil...otherwise machine shop. If you ruin holes, convert to Heli-Coil or eqiv. good luck
