possible charging problem??
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 428
Likes: 1
From: West Des Moines Iowa
possible charging problem??
Ok, this is not drastic, but I am very puzzled. I store my car at least 6 months in the winter, starting it up once every 3 weeks to warm up for 30 minutes. Lately, during the past winter, it is difficult to start the car, I mean, when it turns over. When plugged into my booster/charger and run 50 amps for 30 seconds, it turns over really fast like a new car and all the interior lights come on. Even after running for 30 minutes, or driving it 15 miles (to exercise it), it will act up after I return it home. I mean, right when I return from a long drive and shut it off, then try to restart it, it will turn over very slow again. Its like the alternator is not giving the battery a charge, or the battery is completely dead (3 yrs old now---ac delco type). No, I have not been to an auto parts store and had my battery or alternator tested under load yet. The regulator looks brand new still, as it should with a frame off restore done 4 years ago. Does anyone have any insight to this minor, but getting to be aggrevating problem??? 
Johnny B
(gonzo)
Johnny B
(gonzo)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
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From: Austin Texas
The battery may not be fully charged. The battery needs a good, long charge, 10 amps for at least 10 hours. A quick 50 amp charge will only give the battery a "surface charge". Then if you can get a battery load tester or hydrometer to test the specific gravity of the acid, do the tests before you condemn the battery. If the battery checks out good, the starter may be going bad (heat soak). 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,319
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From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by big_G
The battery may not be fully charged. The battery needs a good, long charge, 10 amps for at least 10 hours. A quick 50 amp charge will only give the battery a "surface charge". Then if you can get a battery load tester or hydrometer to test the specific gravity of the acid, do the tests before you condemn the battery. If the battery checks out good, the starter may be going bad (heat soak).
after getting a full charge, run down to the local pep boys or such. they can load test your charging systme in about 5 min for a few bucks
well worth it if you think you have problem. theny just take it home and replace what is bad
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Oh yeah , and check your cables too, keep in mind that trying to charge a dead ort weak batt with just the alt can cause the alt to fail, the regulator to fail (if you have an external one like me).
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 428
Likes: 1
From: West Des Moines Iowa
thanks guys, I have heard of heat soak, but doubt that is the problem since when I do boost the battery, it turns over like a brand new car. Hopefully it is not the alternator, or regulator. The 68 regulator costs a lot to replace. Mine is a rebuilt original with no rust. I will try all of your advice and charge for a few hours under 10 amps, then if it works, I will purchase a "battery butler" to keep the trickle charge going during storage. IF that is not the problem, I have to have it load tested to find out what is causing it.
Johnny B
Johnny B
Le Mans Master
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From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by gonzo14
thanks guys, I have heard of heat soak, but doubt that is the problem since when I do boost the battery, it turns over like a brand new car. Hopefully it is not the alternator, or regulator. The 68 regulator costs a lot to replace. Mine is a rebuilt original with no rust. I will try all of your advice and charge for a few hours under 10 amps, then if it works, I will purchase a "battery butler" to keep the trickle charge going during storage. IF that is not the problem, I have to have it load tested to find out what is causing it.
Johnny B
Johnny B
Just ask for the points style and you ll be fine!!
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Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Hamilton NJ
Originally Posted by gonzo14
I mean, right when I return from a long drive and shut it off, then try to restart it, it will turn over very slow again. Its like the alternator is not giving the battery a charge, or the battery is completely dead (3 yrs old now---ac delco type).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by gonzo14
good tip Sweethence, did not know that. Will check with Napa, if the problem is the regulator
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 428
Likes: 1
From: West Des Moines Iowa
to be honest, no I dont know, or never used a volt meter, I have access to one though. Can you believe it, I am a Senior Systems Analyst, but never messed with one of these. YES, if you give me simple enough instruction, I wouldnt mind Learning...thanks!! 
Johnny B
Johnny B
Le Mans Master
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From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by gonzo14
to be honest, no I dont know, or never used a volt meter, I have access to one though. Can you believe it, I am a Senior Systems Analyst, but never messed with one of these. YES, if you give me simple enough instruction, I wouldnt mind Learning...thanks!!
Johnny B
Johnny B
funny though i suspect you are not the first. reeber when it comes to muscle cars, the voltmeter is your friend. Ok you are dealing with a DC (direct Current) system, sop make sure the voltmenter is set up to read DC Volts. then you want to check the voltage at the following locations.
Positve termial of altanator & ground, you should see 14.6 volts +/- with the engine at about 1200 rpm.
next you want to check the output at the voltage regulator in the same conditions. and you should see the same voltage.
Next you want to do this at the battery.
this will tell you that the alternator output is OK, th3e regulator is doing its job, and the battery is getting sufficiant volts to charge.
If test 1 fails, replace Alt.
if test 2 fails. replace regulator, ( i would open the regulator and adjust the points) but if you are new to this just replace it.
if test 3 fails, check cables, and grounding, replace as neccesary
Lastly you want to check the volts at the fuse box on a switched circuit. ( i,e radio, lights) in the same conditions, to see if you have any issues with a badk fusible link, of voltage loss doe to wiring problems.
Als familiarized you self with your cars wiring diagrams
very usefull indeed
tim
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 428
Likes: 1
From: West Des Moines Iowa
Thanks a bunch Tim, your instructions seem easy enough to follow. I will try it this weekend. Hopefully it is just a dead battery, or one that just needs recharged, which I have not done yet either. Whatever the case, at least now I feel a little more knowledgeable about this stuff. I am pretty good on the mechanics, ie., timing, changing points, replacing plug wires, even taking out half shafts, but have never done the voltmeter thing.... 
Have a great day Tim
Johnny B
Have a great day Tim
Johnny B
Le Mans Master
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From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by gonzo14
Thanks a bunch Tim, your instructions seem easy enough to follow. I will try it this weekend. Hopefully it is just a dead battery, or one that just needs recharged, which I have not done yet either. Whatever the case, at least now I feel a little more knowledgeable about this stuff. I am pretty good on the mechanics, ie., timing, changing points, replacing plug wires, even taking out half shafts, but have never done the voltmeter thing....
Have a great day Tim
Johnny B
Have a great day Tim
Johnny B
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 428
Likes: 1
From: West Des Moines Iowa
hopefully I wont need a new harness, sounds like it might be very difficult to install, especially getting fiber optics routed again. Right now all fiber optics work fine and accessorie lights work. Radio works, but cigarette lighter does not. Gauge lights all work, etc, etc etc, except the clock. The ignition is fine (I think), since it makes that loud electrical thud noise when you try to start it, but the starter wont turn over. After the charger/booster is hooked up for 30 seconds at 50 amps, it turns over really fast. I think it is going to be either the battery or the alternator, but I will try charging the battery first for about 3 hours at 10 amps...and then test from their....thanks again Tim
Johnny B
(gonzo)
Johnny B
(gonzo)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by gonzo14
hopefully I wont need a new harness, sounds like it might be very difficult to install, especially getting fiber optics routed again. Right now all fiber optics work fine and accessorie lights work. Radio works, but cigarette lighter does not. Gauge lights all work, etc, etc etc, except the clock. The ignition is fine (I think), since it makes that loud electrical thud noise when you try to start it, but the starter wont turn over. After the charger/booster is hooked up for 30 seconds at 50 amps, it turns over really fast. I think it is going to be either the battery or the alternator, but I will try charging the battery first for about 3 hours at 10 amps...and then test from their....thanks again Tim
Johnny B
(gonzo)
Johnny B
(gonzo)
tim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by gonzo14
point well taken, will remove battery for 3 to 4 hour charge. Just in case...
yeah wish i did, was in a hurry one day gave it the high amp jump and cooked the kenwood radio i put in..... Oh well the ***** were worn anyway
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 428
Likes: 1
From: West Des Moines Iowa
Had to laugh at that one Tim....Can be expensive, but a good lesson learned, it could have easily happened to me also...But thats what vette ownership is all about-----Dumping money into a bottomless pit----Gonzo