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This seems like a trivial question, but I could use some help. I want to replace the stock snorkel on my '72 SB - Q-Jet with an open element air cleaner assembly and looking for recommendations. I've found everything from this $29 Eckler's unit:
....to this $155 unit from Volunteer (it has the PCV connection
...and everything in-between. Like I said, any input on this will be appreciated.
Summit:
Top - SUM-239501 (You don't need the top obviously)
Assembly - SUM-239433 (This is a drop base, they have similarly priced assemblies that are not drop base style.)
Why do you want to get rid of the cold air induction?
Hmmm. Good question. With the snorkel, I'm not really getting cold air, it's still drawing from inside the engine compartment and it restricts the carb's airflow. The open element will give me a greater volume intake and better breathing thus getting better performance out of the carb. Or, am I missing something?
Hmmm. Good question. With the snorkel, I'm not really getting cold air, it's still drawing from inside the engine compartment and it restricts the carb's airflow. The open element will give me a greater volume intake and better breathing thus getting better performance out of the carb. Or, am I missing something?
Not familiar with the '72 (I have a '76) but how are you drawing air through the engine compartment rather than the cold air from the snorkle? Check forum posts as far as cold air vs underhood air.
I'd rather allow my engine to suck in as much warm air as it needs than restrict it to cooler air through a little flat tube. If you want cool air, you need a functional cowl induction.
Not familiar with the '72 (I have a '76) but how are you drawing air through the engine compartment rather than the cold air from the snorkle? Check forum posts as far as cold air vs underhood air.
I'm not familiar with the '76! On my '72 the snorkle ends are just open in the engine compartment, they are not ducted to anyplace that draws in cold, outside air.
As a comparison of open element vs. cold air single snorkel type stock air cleaner on my 77, I tested both with quarter mile drag strip runs. In back to back runs, changing nothing but the air cleaners, my car ran 3 tenths quicker with the open element unit. Hard to believe, but true. The open element unit is a cheap, drop base type from my local parts store. Maybe a dual snorkel L82 unit would be better, but in my case, the cold air didn't overcome the added restriction.
From: Fairview Heights Illinois, near Saint Louis MO, STL C3 Shark
Originally Posted by alanbl
I'm not familiar with the '76! On my '72 the snorkle ends are just open in the engine compartment, they are not ducted to anyplace that draws in cold, outside air.
76 was the first year for 'over the radiator' cold air induction, previous to that, the snorkel just ended in the engine compartment unless you had the cowl induction setup.
I've got a 76 and actuall WANT the correct intake system. Have it all except for the air cleaner base (part with the snorkel)
Why do you want to get rid of the cold air induction?
I dont think he is.
with 68 - 72 cars, the hoods do not have any type of cowl induction or cold air induction for them. ( Not counting L88 or any special type of engines). The snorkels were open and vented to the engine compartments.
From 73 -75 the hoods used a cowl induction intake and a air filter to hood gasket/sealer that allowed air to be pulled from the base of the windshield through the hood, directly to the carb.
In 1976 this was changed to the air cleaner snorkels connected to a shroud that went over the radiator. The air was forced up and over the radiator through the shroud to the air cleaner assembly.
So in this case the question is would an after market fully open air cleaner assembly be more efficient than the stock enclosed air cleaner with 2 snorkels venting to the engine bay. It seems as if the open element would allow you to draw more air, but that would be more hot air. So is this a tradeoff?
I went with the one that has the PVC connection. It made it east to hook into the pass valve cover. The cheap ones don't have the breather tube. I found just the base on ebay then added the top and filter. It was cheaper that way. I like the way it "opened" the look of the engine bay. The dual snorkel unit seemed to hide every thing.
If you take it off, dont throw it away, sell it on ebay.
No problem. I never throw original parts away or even sell them on Ebay. I accumulate them in the (unlikely) event that I sell the car and the buyer wants everything original.
My experience, 69 BB with a Q jet. On dyno, open element with closed metal top for first run. The tech guy then removed the metal lid and I picked up 12 hp and about 15 lbs of torque. Probably because of the air path into the carb. With a open top it could get a streight in flow? Anyway, I bought a K&N top and when I had another dyno session the numbers were about the same as with no top. But I am concerned with always sucking hot air. With your duel snorkel, it would be easy to duct to a cool air source. Might be worth a try.
there must be a intake asembly out there that can use large gauge duct's to route air from the front end or from the side slots. I should have kept my old air filter housing 8( I remember saying "WTF?!?!" then proceeding to rip out all of the emmisions and air filter crap lol.
This is a good thread as I have an open air filter that looks great BUT when stuck in city traffic with outside temps of 100 degrees the engine wants to die so this time of year I keep the idle up to around 900rpm so it won’t stall. I am thinking about putting the original duel snorkel setup back on till the weather cools down to 95 next December.