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For all the coilover guys...

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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 12:47 PM
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Default For all the coilover guys...

I've heard some things about Vansteel etc. but I want to do this myself. If you have done this, what set of coilovers did you use? Did they match manufacturers front to rear? Where can I get a set.

P.S. don't worry about fabrication and all that

THANKS!
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 01:20 PM
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I run Pro shocks front and rear. They have 5 inches of travel, do not go with 7 inch shocks. You need them as short as possible. The 5 inch shocks give 7 inch wheel travel or full travel, stop to stop.
For the front i ended up with 400 pound springs 12 inches long and for the back since I am ahead of the axle I went with 450 pound springs.
I did start by buying 250, 300, 350, 400, 450 in both 10 inch and 12 inch.
I used the 10 inch 450's on the back.
I bought everything from Grisdale, a outlet for coleman racing and other manuafactures.


Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Mar 18, 2006 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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norval do you have any pics of the rear coilovers?
would like to se how its done,im thinking of doing this to my car
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 02:40 PM
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by stingraymaniac
norval do you have any pics of the rear coilovers?
would like to se how its done,im thinking of doing this to my car
This doesn't show alot
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/str...lovers_008.jpg
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 05:03 PM
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How is that lower mount made? did you bolt it to the trailingarm ore is it welded?
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by stingraymaniac
How is that lower mount made? did you bolt it to the trailingarm ore is it welded?
The lower mount is welded to the trailing arm. I also cut off the stock upper mount and milled a billet one, added a plate to the frame and then welded the upper mount to this plate. The plate spread the load.

You can not just bolt something to the trailing arm. It must be welded. Trailing arms are not that strong, material is fairly thin so spread the load out over area.
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 05:32 PM
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the stock arm is way too thin to take the load on the 2 screws that are for the standard shock cross bar.
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by CarQz17
P.S. don't worry about fabrication and all that

Do you mean you can do and are willing to do mods & fabrication or do you mean it has to be an olmost bolt in setup?

Here's my setup, uses 7 & 9" carrera shocks & hypercoil springs.





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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 09:13 PM
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Norval,
Are you running 5" shocks due to your car being lowered or ?
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Do you mean you can do and are willing to do mods & fabrication or do you mean it has to be an olmost bolt in setup?

Here's my setup, uses 7 & 9" carrera shocks & hypercoil springs.





lol I can do all the fabrication, but THATS impressive
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 11:39 PM
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ttt
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by flynhi
Norval,
Are you running 5" shocks due to your car being lowered or ?
No my car is normal height. I don't like something dragging the ground.
5 inch long travel shocks is all the shock you can fit in stock locations, not stock mounts but stock locations. If you get 7 inch long travel shocks the lower end will hand way down under the suspension.
Marck can get away with it because he raise the inner mount, you can not.
You car only has 7 inches of total travel per wheel running bump stop to bump stop and that only requires 5 inches of shock travel.
Save yourself grief and look only at the shortest 5 inch travel shocks.
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 04:58 PM
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So, Norval, if I am running standard length shocks and my front end is lowered 1.5", are my shocks at full compression before the control arm hits the rubber bumper?
Inquiring minds need to know.....
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 05:01 PM
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No, ride height won't affect the shock compressed height, it only affects the piston position/shopck compression at ride heigth. If you are using correct compressed height shocks then there's no way your shock will bottom out before the bump stop on the lower control arm. some shocks (like the konis) come with shaft moutned bumpstops to eliminate the possibility of bottoming out (and ruining/bending the rod) the shock. If you removed or trimmed down the bump stops then it's a good idea to check the suspension movement through full motion (without springs in place) to see if the shock bottoms out.
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 10:41 PM
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Twin Turbo and Norval,
My 71 SBC vert has Vette Brakes front transverse spring. I have adjusted Z height per John Greenwood's Vette Improvement Program for what he thought was optimum contact patch through wheel travel. Since this left me with about 1" of travel before hitting the rubber bumper, I cut down the bumper into the same profile only 1.5" shorter.
I'm running the spring on the softest setting and using KYB GR2 shocks.

The ride problem I'm trying to fix is rough riding over city streets. I cannot determine if the probelm is hitting the rubber bumper, the shock becoming fully compressed or the shock being too stiff in compression.

Ride quality at speed on the freeway is very good.

Your Thoughts?
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 08:21 AM
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ttt
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 08:53 AM
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put some kind of marking on the bump stop, use something like that white tire lettering pen stuff and go for a ride, check if the white has smudged and is transferred onto the frame, that'll answer if you are hitting the bump stops, in which case you may want to trim them down some more.

As for the shock, are you concerned about the fronts or the rears? The fronts are easily checked by putting a tie wrap around the stem near the shock body, going for a ride and looking where the tie wrap ended up.
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 12:08 AM
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Good tips, Twin Turbo.
Thanks.
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 03:48 PM
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GENIUS I TELL YA...GENIUS!
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