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Stroker block clearancing

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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 11:55 AM
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Default Stroker block clearancing

I finally got my 383 stroker rotating assembly last week. This is my first stroker so I read a couple books and it seems fairly straight forward, however I set the crank and used an old piston and rod to see where and how much to grind but nothing hit the block. The closest one got to the oil pan rail was .037. At the cylinder walls the rod bolts came equally close but did not touch. The cylinder walls already have cast indent where the rod bolts pass by.
So, how much clearance should I have? Am I just lucky?

Chris
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 12:52 PM
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I think A 383 fits without clearancing I THINK
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 01:09 PM
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You'll need to clearance with the new rods and bolts, .050" minimum.
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 01:10 PM
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Just went through this a couple weeks ago. #1 and #8 were the only ones that hit, but I cleared the block for all the rods anyway just to be safe. I still had to grind the rods to clear the cam, only because I'm using a high-lift camshaft. After your block is bored, do a mock-up with all the parts you're going to use and check it again, with the cam

BTW, what kit did you get???
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 02:22 PM
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My four-bolt main block needed to be not only notched around the pan, but also up top center, by the cam. I'm using 6" H-beam rods though and that may have something to do with it !
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 02:35 PM
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Low budget cast kit from Speedway. I'm trying to get it ready for the machine shop. Speedway already clearanced the rods so I should be good there, but I'll double check everything upon assembly. I guess to be safe I'll clearance everything at .050. That's for the input.

Chris
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by evalu8r
I finally got my 383 stroker rotating assembly last week. This is my first stroker so I read a couple books and it seems fairly straight forward, however I set the crank and used an old piston and rod to see where and how much to grind but nothing hit the block. The closest one got to the oil pan rail was .037. At the cylinder walls the rod bolts came equally close but did not touch. The cylinder walls already have cast indent where the rod bolts pass by.
So, how much clearance should I have? Am I just lucky?

Chris
You need to install one new piston and rod at a time and swing it 360 degrees in both directions. You only end up grinding on maybe four cylinders at the front of the block. I went for about .050 fore and aft and at least .040 outboard.

Last edited by gkull; Mar 23, 2006 at 04:40 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 04:31 PM
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Just following along.
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 08:28 AM
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Most OE and Most OE-replacement type and a Few aftermarket Hi-Po pistons come with an offset wristpin (offset from right-to-left). This offset affects the rod angle and can affect the clearancing requirements. Chances are the motor came with offset pins ... chances are new stroker Hi-Po pistons do NOT have offset pins. Unless you're certain you're working with like wristpin locations,that's another reason to double check clearancing after boring w/ new pistons ... Same goes for rod lengths and cam profiles/timing (any change from old-to-new). I like 0.050"-0.060" at both rod-to-block & rod-to-cam.
Originally Posted by evalu8r
... however I set the crank and used an old piston and rod to see where and how much to grind but nothing hit the block.
Originally Posted by 682XLR8
After your block is bored, do a mock-up with all the parts you're going to use and check it again, with the cam
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 10:48 AM
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Quality stroker rotating kits don't have block and cam clearance issues. It's when you buy junk is when you have problems. I can't say enough about Bill Mitchell and his Hard Core kit. Every rod hit the cam lobes. Everything about his short block kit was screwed.

Other kits I only had to grind the pan rails on about 4 of the forward cylinders with big 6 inch H beam rods and big lobe roller cams.
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