dano78

I've got a 78 L-82, it's got a normal 180 thermostat now but consistantly runs 200-210 on the guage. Anybody had any luck with the high flow thermostats? I thought about using a 160 high flow thermostat, but will that be too cool?? I have already put in a new radiator and the engine is only slightly modified with 10.5-1 pistons, mild head work, and a mild cam.


[Modified by dano78, 9:13 PM 8/15/2001]

Vader953

You and I are in the same boat. My 78 L-82 was running about 210-230. I put in a new 180 therm, new NOS ac delco radiator, new temp gague, and watter wetter, and still can't get the damn thing to run less than 205-220. I've been considering putting in a 160 degree therm.
:confused:

Anyone else havd an idea or comment???

Garson

I have used the 180 degree high flow balanced thremo with great results. I would not suggest going to a 160. After my radiator cleaning and new hood and shroud seals, I put in a 30/ 70 mix of coolant and water then added 2 bottles or water wetter from redline. It has been a hot summer here an it runs 180 all the time.

Garson

joeveto

First, test your thermostat to make sure it's actually working. Using a yeast thermometer, I tested both my new thermostat and my old thermostat. The new thermostat was crap, while my old 160 degree thermostat worked fine. I put it back in, changed out some hoses, flushed the system, and switched to pure water. Now the car runs 180. The car will be stored in the winter, so I'm not worried about freeze protection. You may want to try this.

virtue4u

My cockpit gauge runs at 205 degrees when the engine is only 180 degrees. Before spending a bunch of money changing out additional parts, go to your local autoparts dealer and buy a $7.00 thermometer. These thermometers have a 4 inch stem that you can insert deep between the water pump and engine block. Bring the car up to temperature and compare your cockpit gauge to the thermometer in the engine. Like mine, you may learn that the car is running 180 degrees as your thermostat is rated to.

robzr

I am running a ~440 HP 388 stroker with a stock radiator and clutch fan ('76 L48). I almost never see over 185 or so, even on 90+ days in Chicago traffic. I have a Stewart stage 1 pump (~70?) and a balanced Shaw 180 thermostat. Remember, setting your timing and carb settings is VERY important for your engine temperature.

Anyways, for cooling problems I recommend going to http://www.stewartcomponents.com and reading their message board, and/or buying their stuff. I have a balanced Robert Shaw thermostat that was drilled by Stewart, if anyone locally wants it email me. You can buy them from Stewart for $11 + $8 shipping.

Rob

tsw71

There is deffinately a difference between the cheap stock thermostat and the "good ones". My temp always varied by quite a bit. I installed a Mr. Gasket thermostat(basicly a Robert Shaw themostat) and now it gets up to temp very quickly and stays right past the mark (180-185) very consistanly. I went with the "Super Stant" in my street rod, but though it seems to run a little cooler, it takes forever to get up to running temperature.

Sir Tripower

Just have a look at my todays "Aluminum Rad" topic. That radiator solved all my temp-problems at once. I've learned, that my only 3 years old Harrisson replacement radiator was totaly stuck inside and partly leaking.

No other thermostat, water wetter, or gauge had helped in that case.

Gerrit

a smith

Sir tripower How much did that radiator cost? ;)

Maxd_out

Although 200-210 is not that high, definetly go with the cheaper route first when solving your cooling problems, so definetly start with the thermostat. I would probably stick with a 180. Be sure to drill a small hole in it before installing it to allow for any air that might get trapped behind.

You might also consider going to a 25%/75% coolant/distilled water ratio and add a couple of bottles of Water Wetter. I haven't noticed a great deal of improvement using this, but others on the forum claim it works great for them. It's still relatively inexpensive.

What keeps mine running at 180-195 constantly was the upgrade to a BeCool aluminum radiator with Spal electric fans. This is pricey but it works for me.

Good luck!

Sir Tripower

550,-$ at Dewitt

Gerrit

Sir Tripower

Everything you expected I've done befor the rad-exchange (except "water-wetter") without any improvements.

It definitaly was the stuck rad!

Gerrit

killain

I'd check to make sure the temperature gauge sending unit is working and is correct for your engine. I had a sending unit from a 'Rarts store' in my 79 and it consistantly read 10 degrees hotter than the engine was? :mad