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Differential side yoke question

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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 06:19 PM
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Default Differential side yoke question

I just pulled the differential on my 1968, 327, 300hp car. The side yokes had more than 0.060 play. The rear end had been rebuilt before, and I could tell the differential had been taken out too.
My differential side yokes have bolted caps. I thought those were only on big block cars. Could the U bolt side yokes have been changed to caps on a small block car? Or is it more likely the small block differential was replaced with a big block differential? What side yokes do I need, the big block ones? Are there different ones for different years?
Also, the driveshaft U joint (tranny to dif), is that pressed in like the 2 axle shafts are? I was going to replace it but wasn't sure if that could be done with the driveshaft still on the car.
BTW, this board (and "gtr" especially) have been a great help on this project!!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited by Garys 68; Mar 26, 2006 at 06:27 PM.
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 06:54 PM
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Gary, Its safe to say after 30+ years, any of those components could have been swapped out by now for numerous reasons. One thing to think about is that as the side clutches and friction plates wear, thus increasing the travel of the yoke. Though the yokes and carrier center pin DO wear, has anyone considered shimming behind th snap ring to set proper end play? A rear alighment may be required depending on the amount of correction. Also, when I said Shim, I ment a hardened machined (washer like) shim to fit into the recess of the side gear behind the retaining snap ring. Hey! maybe I should market them?
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 07:30 PM
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 08:27 AM
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The SB automatic cars had the HD yokes as did the BB cars. The SB 4 spd used the bolts.
If you have the caps then use new HD yokes but as said unless you shim teh clutches then the endplay will be all over.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 08:38 AM
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I may have a simular occurance with my 73 that I am working on and wanted to ask if you the endplay that you are talking about is rotational or in/out movement? Mine seems to have a little of both.

Thank you, this sight has been great. I used it to rebuild an 85 that I had and lost in Hurricane Katrina, now I am re-building a 73 I picked up and will be using the sight a lot in the furture.

Mason
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 09:24 AM
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gtr, mine is, and always has been, a 4 speed manual. I guess it was just replaced.
Are all the caped yokes the same? Or do I need to know year, big or small block application?
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 09:28 AM
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I was talking about in/out play. The tire rocked about 1/2" at the top ( rocking at 12 & 6:00 positions). I saw the yokes were sliding in and out 0.060. That actually translates into a lot of motion at the top/bottom of the tire.
Oh yeah, my lower strut rod bushings were almost disintegrated too. So that added to it.
Gary

Originally Posted by wmm1955
I may have a simular occurance with my 73 that I am working on and wanted to ask if you the endplay that you are talking about is rotational or in/out movement? Mine seems to have a little of both.

Thank you, this sight has been great. I used it to rebuild an 85 that I had and lost in Hurricane Katrina, now I am re-building a 73 I picked up and will be using the sight a lot in the furture.

Mason
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 11:56 AM
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Just looked through several vendors.
Looks like my only choice is U bolt or heavy duty. So HD it is.
Gary
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 12:39 PM
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Those are really the ony options. For a street car it doesn't matter, I broke a U-joint in 1/2 before a U bolt failed. SInce you have the caps already use them, there is a different torqu rating for each so be sure to check it out. There should be no difference in price between the 2 yoke types.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 01:18 PM
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Followup.
Is the driveshaft U joint a tight press like the halfshaft joints.
I thought I would replace it if it could be removed with a C lamp and socket, while it's on the car.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 01:57 PM
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For my 75’ it was a press fit, you have to take the C clips out first, but then a C Clamp and some sockets work great. I think that if you unbolt the diff from the drive shaft the transmission side is only a slip yolk so you can pull it out (transmission oil will come out too) . I’ve found it easier to use a couple of sockets and a hammer to get the U-joints out. Good luck.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 02:02 PM
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Hey Hauq.
Got the differential out in about 2 hrs sunday. Not too bad of a job.
Weather was great, saw you working on yours over the weekend too. How's the stripping coming along?
BTW, I was going to pull the shaft, but didn't want to deal with 2 quarts of tranny lube all over the floor.
Also, I did not manage to get the shock mount/strut rod mount off yet. Wish me luck on that!
And do you want to sell those poly bushings? Mine are toast.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 03:25 PM
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Sunday was sweet. I’ve repaired the small cracks in the nose, and hoping to get it on next weekend. The bushings are yours, drop buy any time you see my truck out front.
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