flex fans
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 125
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flex fans
i have a 76 L48, 180 thermostat. when i run the air, the temp slowly creeps up alittle past 200. i was wondering if a flex fan would be of any benefit. if i install aflex fan, do i leave the clutch on or replace it with spacers and would you know what size spacer & fan would i need. thanks for any input.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,330
Likes: 1
From: Kerrville Texas
On my 80 I think it is a 17 incher and no the clutch doesn't stay on. As for spacers they come in several different sizes so buy 4-5 and take back the ones you don't use.
Also make sure you tell the person helping you it is for a Vette because the spacers for most applications have a pilot whole that is too small to fit on a Vette water pump.
My car runs 210 all the time winter,spring.summer or fall, Who knows maybe a bad gauge.
Kona
Also make sure you tell the person helping you it is for a Vette because the spacers for most applications have a pilot whole that is too small to fit on a Vette water pump.
My car runs 210 all the time winter,spring.summer or fall, Who knows maybe a bad gauge.
Kona
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
same thing
I have the same vette 76 (383 stroker now installed) that had the same problem. Going on advice of a friend that has a Vette repair shop I replaced my 180 thermostat with a 160 and had my original radiator recored. Problem solved. Winter/spring (30-60 degrees) I run at 165-170. Summer 80-100 degrees I run at 180-190. I tried a aftermarket/ebay electric fan and fried it in one day so I went back to the stock fan. Since I already have the wires ran for a electric fan does anyone have any suggestions for a reliable electric fan ?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 2
From: Meriden CT
Originally Posted by 7t6vette
I have the same vette 76 (383 stroker now installed) that had the same problem. Going on advice of a friend that has a Vette repair shop I replaced my 180 thermostat with a 160 and had my original radiator recored. Problem solved. Winter/spring (30-60 degrees) I run at 165-170. Summer 80-100 degrees I run at 180-190. I tried a aftermarket/ebay electric fan and fried it in one day so I went back to the stock fan. Since I already have the wires ran for a electric fan does anyone have any suggestions for a reliable electric fan ?
Dual Spal's from Dewitts, there is a sale going on right now, $75 off I believe. Best fans you can buy, hands down.
see the thead about Dewitts Spal Sale
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I ran the Stainless 10,000 RPM brand standard rotation flex fans for many years and lots of different motors on my vette.
The fan spacer had a bigger hole on the pump side to accomidate our larger 3/4 shaft vette water pumps. The fan side was the smaller standard 1/2 inch or what ever. I just ran longer stainless fine thread bolts with lock & small washers for safety.
The fan to pull air has to be inside the shroud. I was running them on 7500 rpm motors and with the big crank pulley and smaller water pump pulley the fan was way exceeding any RPM that I would trust a stock fan.
this my old 383 showing the spacer and fan. I hurt the shroud by having to much motor tilt once. anyway the aluminum looked nice.
The fan spacer had a bigger hole on the pump side to accomidate our larger 3/4 shaft vette water pumps. The fan side was the smaller standard 1/2 inch or what ever. I just ran longer stainless fine thread bolts with lock & small washers for safety.
The fan to pull air has to be inside the shroud. I was running them on 7500 rpm motors and with the big crank pulley and smaller water pump pulley the fan was way exceeding any RPM that I would trust a stock fan.
this my old 383 showing the spacer and fan. I hurt the shroud by having to much motor tilt once. anyway the aluminum looked nice.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 242
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From: Cumming GA
In the FWIW department....... If you have an "original" motor on the car, keep the clutch and hd fan. Your not gonna find a fan setup (short of huge shrouded electric) that will even come close to pulling the same kind of air. Granted the stock setup uses HP.
The key is to have the fan in the shroud with minimal space (1/4-1/2" on the sides max), and, just a hair out of the shroud itself.
Big things to do are to make sure you have a good thermostat (180 is good so your oil gets to proper temp). Check the radiator. If its not clean you may wanna re-cored.........I'm gonna do mine soon. The clutch itself, make sure its not free-wheeling too much (aka worn) at idle............ Air-In-The-System....... BAD BAD BAD..... You want every bit of thermal xfer to the radiator, so, you want that baby full........ even add some Redline WaterWetter that helps cut down on bubbles inside and hits the surfaces better.
If you do choose to go electric, go BIG. At an idle you want some CFMs that are close to riding at 25mph. So you want about 2000+ if possible.
Flex-A-Lite and Derale are both very good products.
The key is to have the fan in the shroud with minimal space (1/4-1/2" on the sides max), and, just a hair out of the shroud itself.
Big things to do are to make sure you have a good thermostat (180 is good so your oil gets to proper temp). Check the radiator. If its not clean you may wanna re-cored.........I'm gonna do mine soon. The clutch itself, make sure its not free-wheeling too much (aka worn) at idle............ Air-In-The-System....... BAD BAD BAD..... You want every bit of thermal xfer to the radiator, so, you want that baby full........ even add some Redline WaterWetter that helps cut down on bubbles inside and hits the surfaces better.
If you do choose to go electric, go BIG. At an idle you want some CFMs that are close to riding at 25mph. So you want about 2000+ if possible.
Flex-A-Lite and Derale are both very good products.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I had cooling problems with my hot rodded L-82 with the sorry stock 1979 fan clutch. When you got up to high rpm and this was when it was new. The fan would go quiet from free wheeling and my temp gauge would climb to the point where my stock electric fan would kick on. I already had the big radiator so i went for the high flow pump.
The problem got solved when I got rid of the stock fan and went with the big bladed stainless. these aren't wimpy blades. at idle you could feel the breaze leaning over the fender.
I would not run a stock fan over 6000 rpm
The problem got solved when I got rid of the stock fan and went with the big bladed stainless. these aren't wimpy blades. at idle you could feel the breaze leaning over the fender.
I would not run a stock fan over 6000 rpm
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 125
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want to thank everyone for their reply. i guess i will stick with the stock unit. will try wetter water,this year. it is only on 85+ days that it starts to creep up, otherwise it hang in there at 180-190. again thanks guys
Safety Car
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,176
Likes: 7
From: Jennings LA
a thermostat has nothing to do with how hot an engine will run. it only controls how quickly it warms up. wether you put a 160 or 180 degree thermostat once it is open it is open and no longer restricts water flow. if your car is running 200 degrees it will run that temp with or without a thermostat.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,542
Likes: 43
From: Plano TX
I'm going with SPAL fans from DeWitts now they're on sale.
However I'd like to give the following info from my 80 L82 vette:
Car would run hot when AC was on in slow moving traffic 200 to 215 degrees. So I then decided to run electric fans but back in the mid 80's the units did not flow enough air so when the AC was turned on the temp shot up.
I took out the electric fans and then went to a flex fan. Would cool the same as the stock unit but the thing was way too noisy. It gave no advantage over the stock fan and just added noise.
After searching for info I found that even a small air leak between the shroud and the rad would cause air to be drawn in around the radiator in stead of through it. I didn't believe a small amount of space in some areas around the shroud would cause that much of a difference. After all other attempts I decided to try sealing the shroud to the radiator with stock replacement seals and addition foam in all other areas.
After making sure there were no air leaks the car never goes over 190 and that's in texas heat!
I plan of using the high flow SPAL fans only to free up space for a spreader bar and ease other work when at the track.
However I'd like to give the following info from my 80 L82 vette:
Car would run hot when AC was on in slow moving traffic 200 to 215 degrees. So I then decided to run electric fans but back in the mid 80's the units did not flow enough air so when the AC was turned on the temp shot up.
I took out the electric fans and then went to a flex fan. Would cool the same as the stock unit but the thing was way too noisy. It gave no advantage over the stock fan and just added noise.
After searching for info I found that even a small air leak between the shroud and the rad would cause air to be drawn in around the radiator in stead of through it. I didn't believe a small amount of space in some areas around the shroud would cause that much of a difference. After all other attempts I decided to try sealing the shroud to the radiator with stock replacement seals and addition foam in all other areas.
After making sure there were no air leaks the car never goes over 190 and that's in texas heat!
I plan of using the high flow SPAL fans only to free up space for a spreader bar and ease other work when at the track.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 125
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[QUOTE=DaveL82]
After searching for info I found that even a small air leak between the shroud and the rad would cause air to be drawn in around the radiator in stead of through it. I didn't believe a small amount of space in some areas around the shroud would cause that much of a difference. After all other attempts I decided to try sealing the shroud to the radiator with stock replacement seals and addition foam in all other areas.
i find this to be very helpful and logical
After searching for info I found that even a small air leak between the shroud and the rad would cause air to be drawn in around the radiator in stead of through it. I didn't believe a small amount of space in some areas around the shroud would cause that much of a difference. After all other attempts I decided to try sealing the shroud to the radiator with stock replacement seals and addition foam in all other areas.
i find this to be very helpful and logical